Wanna keep the 410's but..
#11
You're talking about a drastically different setup than the OP is going to be running though. A KB is going to be hitting full boost around 2k, they're known as torque monsters through the entire RPM band. A centri blower builds with RPM. You're building boost gradually, and shouldn't have a traction problem that much worse than you already have until you hit mid range when you begin to come into boost.
#12
This is all perfectly fine and good if your setting up a drag car and don't mind hideous tiny rims and fat *** tires, however, for a street car S/C + 4.10s is a HUGE MISTAKE.
Lets put it this way........a certain someone I know that put a KB 2.1L on a 99 GT with 3.27's and 315's had to do absolutely everything he could on the track to prevent the first two gears from not shredding his tires. Thats not fun. So you can take it from drag honks who scream that you should get 4.30's who have no concept of a street car, or you can use a little common sense and think about it. Youl notice that 80% of the people who say 4.10 OMG OMG OMG BEST EVAR have nothing but bolt ons and are making a mild 270 to the wheels. They wouldn't know what traction issues were if it ran across their forehead.
Not to mention how obnoxious riding on the highway at 3,000-3,500 RPM's is, and the effect it has on your gas mileage, though it may be small.
When it comes down to brass tax. If you are building a bonafied drag car 4.10s are the bread and butter. However if you only hit the track maybe twice a year and you daily drive your car and want it to be street friendly, DONT DO IT
I do want to make it clear that this isnt directed at dimebag, as he gave the proper advice for a drag car and he could probably out launch us in a golf cart after a spliff or two.
Lets put it this way........a certain someone I know that put a KB 2.1L on a 99 GT with 3.27's and 315's had to do absolutely everything he could on the track to prevent the first two gears from not shredding his tires. Thats not fun. So you can take it from drag honks who scream that you should get 4.30's who have no concept of a street car, or you can use a little common sense and think about it. Youl notice that 80% of the people who say 4.10 OMG OMG OMG BEST EVAR have nothing but bolt ons and are making a mild 270 to the wheels. They wouldn't know what traction issues were if it ran across their forehead.
Not to mention how obnoxious riding on the highway at 3,000-3,500 RPM's is, and the effect it has on your gas mileage, though it may be small.
When it comes down to brass tax. If you are building a bonafied drag car 4.10s are the bread and butter. However if you only hit the track maybe twice a year and you daily drive your car and want it to be street friendly, DONT DO IT
I do want to make it clear that this isnt directed at dimebag, as he gave the proper advice for a drag car and he could probably out launch us in a golf cart after a spliff or two.
This is a intresting thread though. I will also be S/C the stand in the near future. I alreayd have traction issues though. (I spin through 1st and seccond with just the mods in my sig)
#14
#15
im still running my stock 3.27 gears with my p1sc at 8 psi o my gt and with my 315's out back i can still get the car side ways from a roll in 2nd and if i slam 3 on the freeway i can still spin tire. 4.10 on street tire at your anticipated >450whp might be a lot of tire shredding if you cant control you foot.
ps good luck out at the sand box.
ps good luck out at the sand box.
#17
Or... 28inch tire
You guys that are spining prob aren't set up for traction, most likly your lowered, and have 17s or 18s... Chabces are ur running cheap 315s, well cheaper then what tire you could have ran.
If the car has some simple traction mods it'll be fine
You guys that are spining prob aren't set up for traction, most likly your lowered, and have 17s or 18s... Chabces are ur running cheap 315s, well cheaper then what tire you could have ran.
If the car has some simple traction mods it'll be fine
#18
You're talking about a drastically different setup than the OP is going to be running though. A KB is going to be hitting full boost around 2k, they're known as torque monsters through the entire RPM band. A centri blower builds with RPM. You're building boost gradually, and shouldn't have a traction problem that much worse than you already have until you hit mid range when you begin to come into boost.
Dimebag could have a point there as I am not 100% positive of the person's setup that I was referring to. I believe the had street 315s or drag radials, not sure. Either way like I said, if this is a daily driver....riding around on slicks and tiny rims aint no fun outside of the track.....you would have to buy a second set of rims/tires for the rear at the track just to enjoy your car outside of that. But its all in what you want. OP if your primary concern is 60 ft and 1/4th times then you need to go 4.10 all the way. Just know that you are 100% compromising your car for the street. I see way too much advertisement of 4.10s from people who don't realize what the effects/consequences are outside of the strip.
My 3,000-3,500 RPM reference was in terms of an auto....which probably isnt very applicable for most people, my bad there. Wheres cliffy's little paladinmacro when ya need it....i'm curious to see what the overdrive gear in a 4R70W would run with 4.10s. Believe its a .70:1 gear.
#19
#20
LMAO 4.10's...
man, almost all the people who say use 4.10s with ANY blower on a daily driven street car have no actual experience what-so-ever in testing and trying things out. They are just repeating "here-say" and are NA bolt-on (no offense to anyone) which actually for that set up, 4.10's are actually USEFUL and an appropriate gear.
On an S/C set up-If its a more track oriented set up, with suspension to make the car hook AND a tall tire THEN 4.10's would be ok... Its deffinetly not for everybody!!! Hell, its not for most people since more than half of these set ups are DD street cars with occasional to very little track play. And most will have stock shortblocks too so they cant be revving it to the moon (6800 rpm+) without seriously risking blowing up their motors which is what you would HAVE to do with 4.10's in the 1/4 and even a highway race (you aint going past 110ish at 6k rpm, WHICH SUCKS ***!!)
3.73's IMO the best suited gear for someone who has a DD with decent tires (eg: nitto 555s), few suspension bolt-ons, and a centri set up. This is a gear if you want good low end TQ without completely blowing off the tires at WOT. You will have a decent top end mph that you can use at the track without having to worry too much about running out of gear at the end of the 1/4 (abour 125ish or so).
Also i didnt state anything with the gas mileage difference between the two gears because when you fully bolt on + have a S/C, thats not really something you should be paying attention to too much.
In my case, even 3.73's were too much... YES!!! I SAID TOO MUCH!! i had a hard time catching traction in the lower gears....1st was non existing and i was constantly fighting 2nd to get it to bite. guys thats not fun when your trying to win races, launch the car, keep straight on the road. Image 4.10 gears... hell no man. So i threw on drag radials and backed down to 3.55 gears.... IMHO thats the BEST DAMN SETUP you can have for a street car. And if you build your motor later on and up the boost so your near 500 rwhp, youll thank yourself for having a gear that can easily take you 130+ and youll automatically have great low-end seeing that you built you s/c set up right (pully it to the max so boost comes on quickly, get appropriate cams, and bolts on that will net increased low end tq eg: lt's) But hey like the 4.10 guys, this might not be for everyone either, i just like whats PRACTICAL and useful in my set up (425 rwhp, bolt ons and NO lt's)
3.55's FTMFW!!!
(my post was entirely concerning the OP chooses a centri setup, if your going to run a roots or twinscrew your *** BETTER stick with 3.55's or lower unless your car is track oriented)
man, almost all the people who say use 4.10s with ANY blower on a daily driven street car have no actual experience what-so-ever in testing and trying things out. They are just repeating "here-say" and are NA bolt-on (no offense to anyone) which actually for that set up, 4.10's are actually USEFUL and an appropriate gear.
On an S/C set up-If its a more track oriented set up, with suspension to make the car hook AND a tall tire THEN 4.10's would be ok... Its deffinetly not for everybody!!! Hell, its not for most people since more than half of these set ups are DD street cars with occasional to very little track play. And most will have stock shortblocks too so they cant be revving it to the moon (6800 rpm+) without seriously risking blowing up their motors which is what you would HAVE to do with 4.10's in the 1/4 and even a highway race (you aint going past 110ish at 6k rpm, WHICH SUCKS ***!!)
3.73's IMO the best suited gear for someone who has a DD with decent tires (eg: nitto 555s), few suspension bolt-ons, and a centri set up. This is a gear if you want good low end TQ without completely blowing off the tires at WOT. You will have a decent top end mph that you can use at the track without having to worry too much about running out of gear at the end of the 1/4 (abour 125ish or so).
Also i didnt state anything with the gas mileage difference between the two gears because when you fully bolt on + have a S/C, thats not really something you should be paying attention to too much.
In my case, even 3.73's were too much... YES!!! I SAID TOO MUCH!! i had a hard time catching traction in the lower gears....1st was non existing and i was constantly fighting 2nd to get it to bite. guys thats not fun when your trying to win races, launch the car, keep straight on the road. Image 4.10 gears... hell no man. So i threw on drag radials and backed down to 3.55 gears.... IMHO thats the BEST DAMN SETUP you can have for a street car. And if you build your motor later on and up the boost so your near 500 rwhp, youll thank yourself for having a gear that can easily take you 130+ and youll automatically have great low-end seeing that you built you s/c set up right (pully it to the max so boost comes on quickly, get appropriate cams, and bolts on that will net increased low end tq eg: lt's) But hey like the 4.10 guys, this might not be for everyone either, i just like whats PRACTICAL and useful in my set up (425 rwhp, bolt ons and NO lt's)
3.55's FTMFW!!!
(my post was entirely concerning the OP chooses a centri setup, if your going to run a roots or twinscrew your *** BETTER stick with 3.55's or lower unless your car is track oriented)
Last edited by avexhype; 09-13-2009 at 11:16 AM.