RPM limitations of stock 2v
11-04-2009, 10:51 PM
#12
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 5,884
Since you doing the install yourself, and degreeing is a long pita process (plus needing to buy the degeeing kit) you could just buy a set of matched cam gears set at 0 degrees. It'll make things a lot easier.
Last edited by mrtstang; 11-04-2009 at 10:53 PM.
11-04-2009, 11:01 PM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
Since you're buying from Hitech you can order them straight from Hitech.
11-05-2009, 08:35 AM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 4,412
With after market cams I thought you had to go bolt on cam gears? With my old NA setup I spun that thing to 6,500 rpms for 3 years with no problems. I could just be lucky... but what. Maybe I just had a great harmonic balancer (youseewhatididthurrr)
11-05-2009, 09:29 AM
#16
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 10,551
I found this quite interesting; here is some correspondences between me and Bart from HTM:
(this is all his words)
Sounds like im pretty much good to go then? I have 11 bolt valve covers, what motor is that?
(this is all his words)
the comp springs work well but are not required. We have cars with over 200,000 miles on the stock bottom ends and stock valve springs. You will want to shift the car at 6300-6400. the cams make max power at 5000-5200 rpm but only fall off 6-8hp at 6300. Shift at 6300 and let it fall back to 4800. The car will be a rocket
the stock bottom ends work fine at 6500rpm. the rods and pistons do not work well with detonation. It is not required to degree in the cams. 1-2 degrees has shown very little difference in performance. You do not need cam gears, but I would check the tensioners for wear.
11-05-2009, 09:31 AM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: PA
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