MarcusM

Alright seems like a problem that I will never get rid of. Here it goes. I had a misfire on cylinder 3. Replaced the boot. Ran great. About a week later. The spark plug blew out of the head, on cylinder 3. Got it heli-coiled. Ran great. 3 days later, check engine light came on again. Cylinder 3 again. Misfire. Got a new boot, not thinking about it. Put it on, helped, didn't trigger the code to come on, but not running perfect. Drove it like this a week, small hesitation at idle, no check engine light. Last night check engine light came on, running pretty ruff. Went this morning, and code showed cylinder 3 (who would of guessed) So I took the coil and boot off of 3 and switched it with cylinder 5. Cleared the code. Seemed to run better for about .. 10 minutes, started to get ruff. Drove around for about 20 minutes, and code finally came on again. Running semi-ruff at this time. Went back, cylinder 3 misfire. So it's not the coil, it's not the boot. It's not the plug. (new plug) The wires that run to the coil are spliced with the after market tach (hooked up to an MSD box) They appear to be spliced well. But that is the only thing inbetween the crazy wiring harness and the coils' plug. My question, is there something I can hook up to that plug to tell the voltage, to see if it is consitant with the others? You know what I mean. Should it be at a certain voltage prior to running through the coil? Or do you think it could be something else? Any suggestions would help greatly. Thanks.
Also I don't think it is the fuel injectors, I've switched them.. It's electrical.. thanks...

MarcusM

anyone?

num1son80

check for heat being your culprit maybe spark plug wires too close to headers and the heat is wiping u out

K

04BlueGT

Do you have UD pulleys on your car?