drilling/slotting own rotors
05-04-2010, 01:03 PM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
bold statement since you don't know anything about me nor my capabilities.
but I'm all ears, since you are coming off as knowing all there is to this topic, so why dont you explain why and HOW stupid this idea is. any technical information is always welcome to understand something and not just say it's dumb idea
but I'm all ears, since you are coming off as knowing all there is to this topic, so why dont you explain why and HOW stupid this idea is. any technical information is always welcome to understand something and not just say it's dumb idea
If you had any idea what you were doing or had the capabilities, you wouldn't be asking such a retarded question. -You Fail.
05-04-2010, 01:05 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
I understand all the forced and all that goes into braking...I was simply asking if people knew what went into drilling/slotting rotors.
Obviously you do not, or you wouldn't be asking this question.
I have acces to those machines and would be cool to do, that's it. I love how when people have a odd/out of the box question that defies most people's opinions you get comments like devon's.
I will be the first to admit I like "out of the box" ideas. I make alot of things myself. I made the grill delete and emblem mount on my car myself, lot's of people laughed, others thought it was cool. BUT I was never risking the mechanical abilities of the vehicle by doing it either...it was purely cosmetic.
if the depth of slot, the arc radius and length all play a CRUTIAL role in the braking capability of a slotted rotor and needs to be specifically calculated/designed then fine, i wouldn't even bother. MOST of the slotted configurations are a simple arc, some are straight slots some are even a "dashed line" type. just goodle slotted rotors and look at the diff designs.
Yes, they most obviously are important. For one thing, the rotors are heat treated AFTER they have been cross drilled, not the other way around. Also, do you realize the effects of a cross drilled or slotted rotor in comparison to a normal flat rotor? The cross drilled decreases braking surface, and is prone to stress fractures. This would be amplified by the fact that you would be drilling them AFTER they were heated. They only benefit of crossdrilled rotors is for the old style brake pads to dissipate the outgassing. New pads do not cause outgassing like old ones. Slotted rotors are made to shave down the pad surface to keep it from glazing over, and are used mainly for racing applications. They do not necessarily increase the stopping power, but extremely limit the life of the pads, and cut down on surface area for breaking. Why do you think so many racing applications still use blank rotors, not fancy cross drilled crap?
even these crazy *** things:
http://www.tirerack.com/images/brake...mOne_rotor.jpg
this wasn't meant to be a "im going to buy blanks and do it myself" more of a "IF someone was to do it, what are all the factors that must be considered into doing it?"
Obviously you do not, or you wouldn't be asking this question.
I have acces to those machines and would be cool to do, that's it. I love how when people have a odd/out of the box question that defies most people's opinions you get comments like devon's.
I will be the first to admit I like "out of the box" ideas. I make alot of things myself. I made the grill delete and emblem mount on my car myself, lot's of people laughed, others thought it was cool. BUT I was never risking the mechanical abilities of the vehicle by doing it either...it was purely cosmetic.
if the depth of slot, the arc radius and length all play a CRUTIAL role in the braking capability of a slotted rotor and needs to be specifically calculated/designed then fine, i wouldn't even bother. MOST of the slotted configurations are a simple arc, some are straight slots some are even a "dashed line" type. just goodle slotted rotors and look at the diff designs.
Yes, they most obviously are important. For one thing, the rotors are heat treated AFTER they have been cross drilled, not the other way around. Also, do you realize the effects of a cross drilled or slotted rotor in comparison to a normal flat rotor? The cross drilled decreases braking surface, and is prone to stress fractures. This would be amplified by the fact that you would be drilling them AFTER they were heated. They only benefit of crossdrilled rotors is for the old style brake pads to dissipate the outgassing. New pads do not cause outgassing like old ones. Slotted rotors are made to shave down the pad surface to keep it from glazing over, and are used mainly for racing applications. They do not necessarily increase the stopping power, but extremely limit the life of the pads, and cut down on surface area for breaking. Why do you think so many racing applications still use blank rotors, not fancy cross drilled crap?
even these crazy *** things:
http://www.tirerack.com/images/brake...mOne_rotor.jpg
this wasn't meant to be a "im going to buy blanks and do it myself" more of a "IF someone was to do it, what are all the factors that must be considered into doing it?"
This is exactly what it turned into. Now, I applaud the fact that you work in a machine shop, and like to use your brain to do things yourself to save a buck-BUT this is not the best choice to apply that thought process.
Any more questions?
05-04-2010, 01:08 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
05-04-2010, 01:16 PM
#14
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
LOL
05-04-2010, 01:19 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
Well now see i tried that! Twice! But that wasn't good enough I guess...lol.
BTW I still maintain the fact that the IAC cleaning worked...hahaha
05-04-2010, 01:21 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
well first off i have done work and written programs on CNC machines and have plenty of people here that are strictly CNC machinests....now that is cleared up.
second maybe I should have phrased it as "I have an idea of the braking system" and have read all over the place of slotted/drilles does nothing major on a DD cand AND the better pads these days do not release gases as much as the old ones did.
ALL I needed for an answer was "No it's no advised since the rotors are heat treated AFTER drilling/slotting."
I would have had my answer and been done with this but people have to become a smartass when something is ovbious to THEM and not other people. (not making enemies but yea I got pissed when people throw this in my face over a simple question)
...ok I'm done the pissy rant...
Third, I'm not getting drilled because of the horror stories of cracking, I was only going as far as slotted or slotted an dimpled. I would really like to see some calculations of blank surface area vs slotted or slotted/dimpled and follow through with real life tests. Clearly the blanks will have more surface area/material to act a a heat sink, and therefore be better, but alotted rotors are better looking lol Not to mention my driving is not racing around town and slaming on brakes so I doubt I would feel any diff.
second maybe I should have phrased it as "I have an idea of the braking system" and have read all over the place of slotted/drilles does nothing major on a DD cand AND the better pads these days do not release gases as much as the old ones did.
ALL I needed for an answer was "No it's no advised since the rotors are heat treated AFTER drilling/slotting."
I would have had my answer and been done with this but people have to become a smartass when something is ovbious to THEM and not other people. (not making enemies but yea I got pissed when people throw this in my face over a simple question)
...ok I'm done the pissy rant...
Third, I'm not getting drilled because of the horror stories of cracking, I was only going as far as slotted or slotted an dimpled. I would really like to see some calculations of blank surface area vs slotted or slotted/dimpled and follow through with real life tests. Clearly the blanks will have more surface area/material to act a a heat sink, and therefore be better, but alotted rotors are better looking lol Not to mention my driving is not racing around town and slaming on brakes so I doubt I would feel any diff.
05-04-2010, 01:23 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
That's ok, the mind is a very powerful device and can make all sorts of things seem real, lol.
You know that reminds me,
If the OP tries hard enough he might even be able to drill his rotors with the power of his mind. That is, if he can figure out the where to plug in the mind powered drill.
You know that reminds me,
If the OP tries hard enough he might even be able to drill his rotors with the power of his mind. That is, if he can figure out the where to plug in the mind powered drill.
Last edited by Sxynerd; 05-04-2010 at 01:27 PM.
05-04-2010, 01:28 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
^ someone always has to keep going..
Nerd, I have come to see your personality on this form and you seem to know you crap....but man, If I hadn't read your personality before posting to me I would want to bring you outside ahaha (no not trying to be "that internet tough guy"...just saying)
Nerd, I have come to see your personality on this form and you seem to know you crap....but man, If I hadn't read your personality before posting to me I would want to bring you outside ahaha (no not trying to be "that internet tough guy"...just saying)
05-04-2010, 01:30 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
well first off i have done work and written programs on CNC machines and have plenty of people here that are strictly CNC machinests....now that is cleared up.
second maybe I should have phrased it as "I have an idea of the braking system" and have read all over the place of slotted/drilles does nothing major on a DD cand AND the better pads these days do not release gases as much as the old ones did.
ALL I needed for an answer was "No it's no advised since the rotors are heat treated AFTER drilling/slotting."
I would have had my answer and been done with this but people have to become a smartass when something is ovbious to THEM and not other people. (not making enemies but yea I got pissed when people throw this in my face over a simple question)
...ok I'm done the pissy rant...
Third, I'm not getting drilled because of the horror stories of cracking, I was only going as far as slotted or slotted an dimpled. I would really like to see some calculations of blank surface area vs slotted or slotted/dimpled and follow through with real life tests. Clearly the blanks will have more surface area/material to act a a heat sink, and therefore be better, but alotted rotors are better looking lol Not to mention my driving is not racing around town and slaming on brakes so I doubt I would feel any diff.
second maybe I should have phrased it as "I have an idea of the braking system" and have read all over the place of slotted/drilles does nothing major on a DD cand AND the better pads these days do not release gases as much as the old ones did.
ALL I needed for an answer was "No it's no advised since the rotors are heat treated AFTER drilling/slotting."
I would have had my answer and been done with this but people have to become a smartass when something is ovbious to THEM and not other people. (not making enemies but yea I got pissed when people throw this in my face over a simple question)
...ok I'm done the pissy rant...
Third, I'm not getting drilled because of the horror stories of cracking, I was only going as far as slotted or slotted an dimpled. I would really like to see some calculations of blank surface area vs slotted or slotted/dimpled and follow through with real life tests. Clearly the blanks will have more surface area/material to act a a heat sink, and therefore be better, but alotted rotors are better looking lol Not to mention my driving is not racing around town and slaming on brakes so I doubt I would feel any diff.
Look at it this way. Take what you make per hour, multiply that times how long you have been arguing with us about this, and see if it is greater than or equal to the price difference in blanks and slotted or drilled rotors mmmk?
Seriously though, just by some damn slotted rotors if you want them to look cool ok? This guy looks like he will sell you some cheap!
/thread..please.
EDIT: Imagine if OX was still here and hadn't been banned for the gagillionth time....haha he'd be a riot right now..
Last edited by devongarver; 05-04-2010 at 01:32 PM.
05-04-2010, 01:38 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
Satire is my middle name, It's nothing personal. You seem to know a bit but on this, it's a bit imbecilic to try and do.
I imagine for you this is one of those things that all car guys get. You have and an idea stuck in your head that for all intense and purpose is a dumb idea but it's stuck and you're trying to rationalize it. It's not a big deal just a silly idea for the average joe to try and do.
If you don't chamfer and sharpen the edges correctly you could end up with more work than you bargain for. Harmonic vibrations shredding pads, you could very well damage your car by doing this yourself. Not to mention down right dangerous.
I imagine for you this is one of those things that all car guys get. You have and an idea stuck in your head that for all intense and purpose is a dumb idea but it's stuck and you're trying to rationalize it. It's not a big deal just a silly idea for the average joe to try and do.
If you don't chamfer and sharpen the edges correctly you could end up with more work than you bargain for. Harmonic vibrations shredding pads, you could very well damage your car by doing this yourself. Not to mention down right dangerous.
Last edited by Sxynerd; 05-04-2010 at 01:40 PM.