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A/C not blowing cool air
09-20-2010, 11:47 AM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Liberty City, FL
Posts: 311
Back in town, so I am going to refill it this evening, already bought the freon. If I remember correctly the port to fill it is on the passenger side, maybe a blue cap? Can someone confirm if that is correct?
I am not in front of the car, so want to make sure I can locate the port when I go do the refill this evening.
I am not in front of the car, so want to make sure I can locate the port when I go do the refill this evening.
09-20-2010, 08:36 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Liberty City, FL
Posts: 311
Wow, i keep getting stuck behind cliffy on the posts. AC can be really tricky, but not usually on our cars..... I don't really understand your post, but im assuming that once again cliffy is right. Have you tried to recharge your system (adding refrigerant)? If so and its still not working, have someone sit in the car and turn on and then off the AC at controlled intervals. At the same time you should be visually watching the compressor to see if the clutch is engaging. If it is, is it staying engaged for a short or long period of time? Let us know the answers to these questions and anything else you see as issues with your problems that you might of left out of your post. good luck, hope i can help in the future
I'm beginning to see why I typically ditch my cars b4 the 100K mile mark (I am at 89K) .. lol .. At least now I get to hear the beautiful purr of my engine each day I drive to and from work, lol...
09-21-2010, 10:03 AM
#16
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: fl
Posts: 17
From your earlier post I would suspect the compressor is bad. With the engine off reach in front of the compressor and grab the clutch (black round rubber piece on the front of the ac compressor) and try turning it by hand. It should turn freely due to the clutch being disengaged while the engine is off. If you feel strong resistance or metal grinding its toast time to get a new one. Brand new ones will be hard to turn but only for a few miles during break in due to tight tolerances. If you need a new one and don't know what you are doing let a trusted shop do it. If you don't flush the system correctly your new compressor will burn up within a couple months. (ask me how I know!!
).
Good luck with it...as we floridians know ac is not a option down here.
). Good luck with it...as we floridians know ac is not a option down here.
09-21-2010, 04:01 PM
#19
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 99
Sounds like your orifice tube is plugged up but to really tell you need to put a set of gauges on it. Sometime the orifice tube will plug up then 'unplug' as the trash in the system moves around, which might explain the intermediate A/C operation. Also when the tube is plugged up the system can over pressurize causing the compressor to stop; this in turn might be causing the belt to slip, making the noise and burning smell.
They have some cheap gauge sets that will work and you can use those to confirm the problem.
They have some cheap gauge sets that will work and you can use those to confirm the problem.
09-21-2010, 08:21 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 2,549
^^^WRONG^^^^^ The compressor is on a clutch. If what you are saying was true then the clutch would not engage, therefore compressor does not run. Compressor and clutch are two different things even though they are attached to one another. When there is no power applied to the clutch it just free wheels. And buying a gauge set is worthless if you don't have a clue what the readings mean, and how to properly diagnose problems.