Question about 4v B-Heads
#11
Nickmckinney you seem to be knowledgeable on these b heads, I am building this as a daily driver, and somewhat of a family heirloom to be. Passed down., could you recommend a good build strategy?
#13
If you click anybody's name you can see if they have a homepage..................
Grind the intake swirl dam down on the B head to where it looks like a C head chamber.
Cut the valve jobs to the max OD of the seat. Lots of flow gain with a good valve job on a 4V head.
Use 96 and newer guides (bronze preferably), seals, springs, retainers.
A certain place can do all the above along with a bowl port for a reasonable price. The bowl port on the B head fixes the fugly short side radius of the square intake port as well.
Use 96-98 Cobra intake cams degreed and advanced to 108 intake centerline.
All the 4V exhaust cams are the same, degree those in at 112-114 centerlines.
Changing the degree on the cams is worth more than porting the heads for a stock type motor.
For the bottom end use a set of Coyote 5.0 rods, ultra light weight and $300 from the Ford dealer for a set. They drop right in nice and easy and are about 40g lighter.
Use a 3V windage tray, it drops right in as well.
#15
The rods are an updated version of the 4.6 powdered rod, 12 point through bolts. Powdered as well but its obvious they are holding up.
Heads use updated 3V style parts.
Rod bearings are exactly the same.
And thats about it, not even the oil pan will move over between the motors, everything else is different.
Heads use updated 3V style parts.
Rod bearings are exactly the same.
And thats about it, not even the oil pan will move over between the motors, everything else is different.
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