phoenixfriend84

+1 on the tire pressure by tire not doorjambs sticker. Tire manufacturers print their Max Psi based on wear pattern, comfort and performance characteristics. Am probably over filled the tire in order to give you some room for adjustment once installed. I would back down the pressure 1- psi until you tech the desired comfort and traction level you can live with.

5sp04GT

Let's not forget that once you lower the pressure down to where it should be your gunna have a lot better traction and it my make your wheel hop worse. I would get some nice LCA's and remove those quad shocks, but not before airing down those tires to a reasonable pressure as stated on the sidewall of the tire.

UPRSharad

I agree about dropping the tire pressure to around 35psi, and also about replacing your control arms to completely eliminate the wheelhop.

These LCAs are Jazzer approved: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-9...trol-arms.html

And we also offer the matching uppers, which I definitely recommend.

MyGt03

Well, I lowered pressure to 35psi. Took for a little spin. Seemed to ride a lot better. Didn't attempt any burnout or launch.

Looking into some LCA's and possibly some new shocks. Any one brand stick out over another? Not looking to totally shred corners, just a smooth, hop free burnout when the need presents itself.

HOWEVER....Here goes...

I am a metal fabricator by trade. I've designed and built everything from simple guard rails, machining tables, countless jigs and fixtures, to complex multi tier CNC machine platforms that had a time and material bid of over 3 million dollars. My home garage has a better fab shop than most welding companies. 220v single phase 250amp mig welder, 200amp AC/DC tig welder, oxygen-acetylene torch with welding tips, torch tips, and rose buds, arbor press, grinders (bench, angle) and got a deal going on for an nice used iron worker. I also have access to a CNC plasma and I know how to write the programs using CAD/CAM software. Operating/programming a CNC plasma was my previous employment. My brother now runs the exact machine I used to operate at a very low key fab shop. And, I have AutoCAD and other like CAD/CAM software on my home computer.

I only say all this cause, "I" look at the pictures of the 200+ dollar LCA's and can't help but think I could make these myself. There is nothing to them. And I have all the dimensions from the stock LCA's. Most crucial part would be keeping them true and at equal lengths. Make the spring perches on the CNC, and at the shop where my brother works, they even have a coping machine. I could buy a set of Prothane Rear Control Arm Bushings for 75 bucks from AM and fab the LCA's myself. Pretty much for free. Brother works at a rock tub trailer manufacturing company. All sorts of material.

A "fabricator" made the ones you buy from AM. Hell, I could also make the UCA's while I am at it. I have been pulling the trigger on a welder for 25+ years. Although, I'd probably tig/fill rod the CA's. Only thing is what sized tubing (square or round) to use and what wall thickness would be needed. Can they be too strong? A 1.75"x1.75"x.1875" (3/16" wall) would hold a freaking tractor in line....

Thoughts?

MyGt03

Anybody? No, don't do it? Bad idea?

I didn't mean to sound like I was bragging about my fab skills and shop. Its just the line of work I have done all my life. And when it comes to my fabricating ability, is when I WILL get cocky. I can freaking build anything.

TRUEBLUE3934

I agree that you could fabricate the LCA yourself, but be aware that there are probably several critical design aspects that have been optimized by engineers with the top name brands. What may seem to be insignificant details could have significant impact upon function. Without the ability to test your design to failure, you might need to make yours a little beefier for safety.

If you have a local shop where you could handle and inspect a couple of existing sets(including some key measurements), it may be a worthwhile investment in time.

Since you can program CNC's to make the components, you may want to make a spare set while you are doing it.

Good luck if you decide to try it!

UPRSharad

Of course you can build them yourself. You're right, everybody's control arms were "fabricated" somewhere. (Maybe CNCed in the case of the billet ones, but you know what I mean)

To me, the point is this- our Pro Street upper and lower control arms are really nice. EASILY 9-second capable. (this has been proven) We sell the set of all four arms for $269. By the time you gather up the raw materials, any welding gas & wire, and take the time to actually fab them up, it will have been more cost effective to just buy ours!

MyGt03

Hey, Thanks for the encouragement. As for the "Key" measurements, I was going to copy stock LCA's. Bolt to blot measurement (overall length), and position of spring perch. Most likely, build a fixture around stock LCA's. From that I will be able to maintain exact measurements, angles, etc. As a fabricator, I always tend to "over build". One of them things, better to be safe than sorry. I wasn't joking when I said I would make them strong enough to hold a tractor in line. As for building a spare set, if I nail it the first time, no need for a second set. Getting the material for free is what makes it seem worth while.

MyGt03

I hear ya. Cost is very much on my mind. My thinking. I get the material for free. Say 1.5"x2.5" with a 3/16"(.1875) wall (already beefier since most use a .120 wall). Already have the welder/gas/wire/fill rods. All I would need is the upgraded bushings kit. I go ahead and build the LCA's myself. As for time invested, I spend most of my time out in garage fiddling anyway. And any time away from wife and screaming kids is like gold. Two outcomes...

1: They don't work or I don't trust them. I buy a new set which is the boat I am sitting in now. I feel its unlikely, but you never know. Would be out the price of bushings. Resell.

2: They do work. I get the prestige of saying, "Yeah, I built my own". The money saved goes for new A-arms for the front. These I would never attempt to make.

Now, my car will not get out of its own way in 9 seconds. I'm fine with that. I see you have a set of 94-04 Mustang Chrome Moly A Arms that are in my price range. Probably not your "Top of the Line" a-arms, but for a slow n go Mustang like mine, the price is definitely right. And has to be an improvement over the stock.

After reading Jazzers sticky on suspension, I will not attempt to fabricate uppers. Seeing how the 4 link is a bad design from Ford, and making the uppers stronger can lead to damage to the housing. Would just upgrade bushings and call uppers good.

But in the end, you are right. It all boils down to time and material. If where my brother works doesn't have the "proper" material for the job, and I am forced to buy (cost of steel is currently outrageous), along with price of bushings, it may be cheaper just to buy a set. This however, is what I do every day for a living...

spivey3

Sounds awesome man, I really like the idea. Please come back and post results! Who knows, maybe you could sell a pair or two to make back your materials cost...