4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Replacing Synchronizers

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Old 09-20-2005, 11:44 PM
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Dirty
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Default Replacing Synchronizers

I was wondering if anyone knows how to replace synchronizers. Or if you can tell me where to go to find a how to.
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Old 09-21-2005, 12:07 AM
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Default RE: Replacing Synchronizers

Wow this tech is amazing.
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Old 09-21-2005, 12:37 AM
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DISASSEMBLY

Remove the drain plug from the lower right side of the main case and drain any excess oil from the transmission.

Place the shift lever in Neutral, then remove the turret cover retaining bolts

Using a medium prybar, carefully pry the turret cover from the extension housing.

Using a 3/16 (5mm) pin punch and a hammer, remove the roll pin holding the offset lever to the shifter shaft. Remove the damper sleeve.


WARNING

If the extension housing is bolted in place, do not attempt to remove the offset lever. A lug (at the bottom of the offset lever) meshing with the detent plate, prevents rearward movement of the offset lever.



Remove the extension housing-to-main case bolts. Use a medium prybar to separate the extension housing (break the seal) from the main case. Remove the extension housing/offset lever by sliding it rearward.

Remove the offset lever, the roll pin, the detent spring/ball from the extension housing detent plate.

Remove the shift cover-to-main plate bolts. Pry the shift cover from the main case, then lift it slightly and slide it towards the filler plug side of the transmission. When the shift forks clear the groove in the 5th/Reverse shift lever, continue lifting the cover.

With needle-nosed pliers, remove the 5th/Reverse C-clip holding the shift lever to the lever pivot pin.

Using a T50 Torx® driver, remove the 5th/Reverse shift lever pin but do not remove the 5th/Reverse shift lever. Remove the backup lamp switch.

Remove the 5th gear synchronizer snapring/spacer from the rear of the countershaft with snapring pliers.

Remove the 5th gear, the synchronizer, the shift fork and the shift rail by gripping the components as an assembly and pulling them rearward from the main case.

To disengage the 5th/Reverse shift rail, work it until it is free.

To remove the speedometer gear, press downward on the speedometer gear retaining clip and slide the gear from the output shaft, then remove the retaining clip.

Remove the front bearing retainer bolts from the main case. Pry the bearing retainer housing from the main case.

To remove the input shaft, rotate it until the flat on the clutch teeth aligns with the countershaft, then pull it from the main case. Be careful not to drop the roller bearings, the thrust bearing or the race from the rear of the input shaft.

Remove the 4th gear blocking ring from the 3-4 synchronizer.

Pull the output shaft rearward, until the 1st gear stops against the case. Remove the output shaft bearing race.

If the race sticks, work the shaft back and forth until it is free.

Tilt the output shaft so that the gear and synchronizer assembly end may be lifted up and out of the main case.

From the main case, remove the 5th/Reverse shift fork, the Reverse shift fork and the inhibitor spring.

Using a 3/16 (5mm) pin punch and a hammer, remove the roll pin from the reverse idler shaft.

Slide out the Reverse idler shaft through the back of the main case. Remove the Reverse idler gear and the over-travel rubber stop.

Flatten all four corners of the countershaft retainer tabs with a hammer and punch or chisel. Remove the countershaft retainer bolts, the retainer, the shims and the bearing race.

If the race sticks, work the shaft back and forth until it is free.

With puller T81P-1104-C1 and puller clamp D84L-1123-A, press the bearing from the rear of the countershaft.

Move the countershaft rearward, tilt the assembly upward and remove it from the case.

Clean all of the parts in solvent and inspect for damage or wear. Replace the parts as necessary. Remove the front bearing from the countershaft.



ASSEMBLY

Using an arbor press and bearing installation tool T57L-4621-B, press a new bearing onto the front of the countershaft, then position the countershaft in the main case.

Using an arbor press and bearing installation tool T83P-7025-AH, press the rear bearing onto the countershaft.


WARNING

When pressing the rear bearing onto the countershaft, place two pieces of 1/4 in. (6mm) bar stock inside the main case, between the countergear front and the main case to support it. During installation, if the countershaft is not properly supported, permanent distortion or damage may result to the main case.



Install the rear bearing race onto the countershaft. Install the countershaft bearing retainer and tighten the bolts to 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 Nm).

Using a dial indicator and bracket tool such as D78P-4201-F, measure the countergear end-play. It should be 0.001-0.005 in. (0.0254-0.127mm). If the end-play is excessive, remove the countershaft bearing retainer and install shims.

After reinstalling the countershaft bearing retainer, bend the retaining tabs over the mounting bolts.

Install the Reverse idler gear in the main case with the shift lever groove facing the rear of the case. Install the reverse idler shaft and the rubber over-travel stop.

Drive the Reverse idler shaft roll pin into the idler shaft to secure the shaft.

Position the Reverse shifting fork and the 5th/Reverse shifting lever into the main case.

Install the output shaft assembly into the main case.

Using polyethylene grease D0AZ-19584-A, or equivalent, coat the input shaft roller bearings (place the bearings into the input shaft), the thrust bearing and the bearing race.

Install the 4th gear blocking ring; align the blocking ring notches with the inserts of the 3-4 synchronizer.

To install the input shaft, align the flat on the synchronizer teeth with the countershaft, then install the input shaft.

Install the input shaft bearing race into the input shaft bearing retainer; do not install the shims. Install the bearing retainer (inner notch facing upwards) onto the main case. Do not use sealant. Tighten the bearing retainer bolts to 11-20 ft. lbs. (15-27 Nm).

Install the output shaft rear bearing race. If necessary, tap the bearing into place using a plastic-tipped hammer.

Install the 5th gear onto the countershaft. Install the shifting rail/5th gear shifting fork assembly into the main case.

When installing the shifting rail/5th gear shifting fork assembly, align the shift rail fork and slide the rail through the fork, stopping after the rod passes through the fork.

Place the shift lever return spring in the main case and slide the shifting rail through it; the long end of the spring MUST face the rear of the main case.

Install the blocking ring and the 5th gear synchronizer into the 5th gear shifting fork, then slide the fork rail assembly into position.

Install the 5th gear synchronizer retainer and snapring.

Connect the lever return spring to the front of the main case.

Apply Teflon® pipe sealant, D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent, to the 5th/Reverse shift lever pivot pin and the backup light switch. Position the Reverse shift fork pin and the 5th gear shift rail pin so that they are engaged with the shift lever. Install the shift lever pivot pin. Use the T50 Torx® driver, tighten the pivot pin-to-shift lever fittings to 23-32 ft. lbs. (31-43 Nm) and the backup light switch to 60 inch lbs. (7 Nm).

Install the speedometer gear onto the output shaft. Make sure that the retainer clip engages a hole in the output shaft.

Using silicone rubber sealant, D6AZ-19562-A or equivalent, apply a 1/8 in. (3mm) bead to the extension housing mating surface and the lubrication funnel in the extension housing.

Coat the offset lever's detent spring, the detent and the ball (place it in the Neutral position) with petroleum jelly. Position and install these parts into the extension housing. Be sure to position the offset lever with the spring over the detent ball.

Install the extension housing and shift l
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Old 09-21-2005, 12:54 AM
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Dirty
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Default RE: Replacing Synchronizers

Thanks man sounds like a lot of work. I night contact some shops around town and see what kind of prices I get.
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Old 09-21-2005, 02:24 AM
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FWP!
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Default RE: Replacing Synchronizers

ROFL... Legend you rock
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Old 09-21-2005, 04:23 AM
  #6  
Acer2428
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Default RE: Replacing Synchronizers

Google is your friend.


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