Note: skip to bottom for tl;dr summary if you do not want to read all this.

I have a 2001 mustang with exactly 100,000 miles. Other than my current coolant issues, she runs great. It's been well taken care of. Clean title. No wrecks. Mint interior and exterior.

A few weeks ago, I got an oil change. The mechanic noticed the thermostat seal had a small leak; I observed it myself and it did, in fact, have a small leak. The car was running cool despite that.

I went ahead and told him to replace it. $50 for the part and labor. Great, no more leaks, I said. A few days later, my car completely overheated. The coolant gauge (I assume this is what it's called) was all the way to the right on the H. I noticed this because my AC became hot.

I immediately stopped the car. I let it cool down. I put some water into the coolant system, allowing me to drive it home (only 3 minutes away).

I refilled the coolant reservoir with coolant and started it up to see where it was leaking. The moronic mechanic placed my upper radiator hose too close to the engine, resulting in a burnt hole.

I purchased an upper radiator hose. Replaced it. Refilled the reservoir. I took it for a joyride for about an hour; it ran flawlessly. Cold AC. Coolant gauge stayed in the middle.

Yesterday, the car overheated again. Luckily, again, I was close to home. Check engine light came on. I scanned it. Code: P 1285. I have not driven it since, and I won't until I fix the issue.

Too long; didn't read:

Car is running hot. Coolant gauge needle at H. AC is hot. Thermostat and upper radiator hose recently replaced due to leaks. Coolant reservoir refilled.

Check engine light on. Code: P 1285.

Any help or tips?

It will be going to a certified mechanic with over 20 years of experience this morning or tomorrow morning. He has good reviews too.

Thanks!

 

My first guess with this is that there may be an air pocket in the cooling system, likely at the thermostat housing.

When coolant is drained (or leaks out) and refilled, the cooling system needs to be "burped" prior to installing the pressure cap and resume driving as normal. Easy way to do this is from a cold start, remove the pressure cap from the reservoir tank and then start the engine and allow to idle until it reaches operating temperature and the thermostat opens, allowing coolant to flow entirely through the system (watch the opening at the reservoir and feel for hot coolant passing through the upper hose; when coolant begins to spill out of the reservoir then you know the t-stat is open). With the cap off it will allow any air pockets that might be present to be purged out. Once you see coolant flowing you can shut the engine off and replace the cap.

 

I think you're right, because the car ran fine for an hour after burping the coolant system. I am not 100% sure this corrected the issue, but there are no leaks, and the car is no longer overheating. I'll keep some coolant in the trunk just in case

Thank you for the tip! It looks like I will not have to make a trip to the mechanic.

 

Oh, by the way, nice new edge convertible. I likewise have an 01 New Edge in lazer red, but with tons of mods.

Again, thanks for the help!

 

Where did you get your oil changed? Jiffy Lube or some such?

 

I took it to some oil change company in partnership with Shell. After this bad service, I have learned a few things.

States do not require workers at oil change shops to be certified mechanics, as they consider the work to be simple. What's worse, I asked a few of the guys there about their experience in a nice, respectful way, and their answers shocked me. One young guy said "no experience." "I started here."

 

FWIW, if at all possible do your own oil changes. Those "quicky lube" places with entry level/UTI grads are responsible for scewing up more crap than you could possibly imagine.

 

Yep.

Besides that, I heard the question asked one time; Just how far is it to the bottom of the barrel once a man starts letting another man change his oil?