welding your torque boxes?
01-04-2011, 03:23 PM
#11
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Strider,
Drill a small hole (3/32" to 1/8") at the end of the tear:
This will keep it from tearing further--give it a shot of rattle-can undercoating to prevent rust.
Then heliarc (TIG, not MIG) weld the tear itself but not the hole. The TIG process does not form as sharp a disruption boundary as does MIG welding and is much better for highly stressed joints.
Drill a small hole (3/32" to 1/8") at the end of the tear:
This will keep it from tearing further--give it a shot of rattle-can undercoating to prevent rust.
Then heliarc (TIG, not MIG) weld the tear itself but not the hole. The TIG process does not form as sharp a disruption boundary as does MIG welding and is much better for highly stressed joints.
01-04-2011, 03:31 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 4,039
It really depends on your type of driving and year of car. The sn-95s are far less prone to having issuesthan the fox bodies which had weaker torque boxes from the factory, plus they are older and possibly rusted depending on what part of the country you live in.
For the most part, the upper boxes are the first to go on a street/strip car when running slicks or sticky DRs. The action of the lower control arms push up and into the body of the car which causes stress on the mounting points, however they are a bit more solid than the uppers to begin with.
The upper torque boxes are simply spot welded onto the floor pan (body) of the car. The action of the upper control arms literally pulls the upper torque boxes away from the car. When the only thing holding them on is the small spot welds, it is only a matter of time that they start separating at the welds if you are launching the car hard.
It is best IMO to get the boxes welded before you do any sort of strip duty with sticky tires. Welding them before any damage is done can't prevent you fom needing to do a whole re-enforcement kit. Once there is any damage, there is really no turning back and a re-enforcement kit is the way to go. Unfortunately a lot of guys are unaware of this weak point until they start separating, making noise and by then it is already too late.
For the most part, the upper boxes are the first to go on a street/strip car when running slicks or sticky DRs. The action of the lower control arms push up and into the body of the car which causes stress on the mounting points, however they are a bit more solid than the uppers to begin with.
The upper torque boxes are simply spot welded onto the floor pan (body) of the car. The action of the upper control arms literally pulls the upper torque boxes away from the car. When the only thing holding them on is the small spot welds, it is only a matter of time that they start separating at the welds if you are launching the car hard.
It is best IMO to get the boxes welded before you do any sort of strip duty with sticky tires. Welding them before any damage is done can't prevent you fom needing to do a whole re-enforcement kit. Once there is any damage, there is really no turning back and a re-enforcement kit is the way to go. Unfortunately a lot of guys are unaware of this weak point until they start separating, making noise and by then it is already too late.
01-04-2011, 04:33 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 4,039
I have seen a few with the minor cracks as seen in some of the pics in this thread. I think that some people have upper torque box damage and don't even know it though. Half of the spot weds are underneath the sound deadening material which can hide the damage til they actually pull off the floor. Also, a lot of people inspect the underside of their cars, so the lower box damage might be more apparent, but unless you pull your rear seats, you won't be able to see any minor upper torque box damage at all.
01-04-2011, 04:42 PM
#16
Underboss
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Helaware
Posts: 20,273
I have seen a few with the minor cracks as seen in some of the pics in this thread. I think that some people have upper torque box damage and don't even know it though. Half of the spot weds are underneath the sound deadening material which can hide the damage til they actually pull off the floor. Also, a lot of people inspect the underside of their cars, so the lower box damage might be more apparent, but unless you pull your rear seats, you won't be able to see any minor upper torque box damage at all.
I hope the spot welding done to mine hold up for awhile but I'm sure it's gonna be when they go as opposed to if.
Good info
01-04-2011, 05:06 PM
#17
Fred I think you're good to go, alot of shop owners have some nasty street cars with just welded seems and they all say if you get the seems welded before they crack you are usually good to go for a street car with weekend track duty.
01-04-2011, 05:11 PM
#18
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,842
Strider,
Drill a small hole (3/32" to 1/8") at the end of the tear:
This will keep it from tearing further--give it a shot of rattle-can undercoating to prevent rust.
Then heliarc (TIG, not MIG) weld the tear itself but not the hole. The TIG process does not form as sharp a disruption boundary as does MIG welding and is much better for highly stressed joints.
Drill a small hole (3/32" to 1/8") at the end of the tear:
This will keep it from tearing further--give it a shot of rattle-can undercoating to prevent rust.
Then heliarc (TIG, not MIG) weld the tear itself but not the hole. The TIG process does not form as sharp a disruption boundary as does MIG welding and is much better for highly stressed joints.
I too have also heard that the lowers go first...but for now I am thinking about installing the kit and seam welding the lowers and then leaving the uppers for now and just seam welding them later
01-04-2011, 05:14 PM
#19
Underboss
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Helaware
Posts: 20,273
