Xx04StangGTxX

What I am saying is there anything I can do to save me money or. And I should I buy my own crank or?

uberstang1

A shop should be able to get it out no problem.

TRUEBLUE3934

Yup, the bolt can be removed from the crank.
First you have to assess your mechanical ability and the tools you have access to.

If you are not confident in this task (and I suggest without trying to be a jerk, that you had some trouble with the pulley swap), I would call a couple of local shops to get estimates and feedback on the situation.

I would lean toward telling you to get a local shop to do this for you.
GOOD LUCK!

Xx04StangGTxX

Would metal inside the crank snout through it off balance and mess something up I want a weld a bolt onto the snout

TRUEBLUE3934

You have to be real careful with any component that is spinning at a high rpm.

That being said, there is a large amount of weight at a fairly significant radius from center line. Therefore a tiny bit of material very near the center line will have relatively little impact on the balance. Be very careful about adding or removing material from balanced parts, but I suspect you will be fine if you keep that in mind as you work.

I wouldn't begin any work until I had at least two estimates from local shops. It may be an easy decision if a local shop will do this for a fair price.

cliffyk

The OP sent me the photo yesterday, my initial examination appeared to prove that the "supplied" broken bolt was indeed a 1.75 mm pitch:



This was generated by cutting a section of the broken bolt's threads, rotating the selection to align with the crank bolts alignment, and overlaying the cut section--doing this the broken bolt appears to be of a larger pitch.

However I became bothered by a number of inconsistencies in the image and performed some additional analyses:



Here I drew a vector arrow across the broken bolt's major diameter, then copied and rotated that vector object (it's length did not change) and overlaid it onto the crank bolt. You can see that the image of broken bolt's major diameter is larger than that of the crank bolt.

Additionally I have highlighted what I feel to be distinct anomalies in the photo's background. An odd out of place background artifact near the broken bolt's upper fracture, and that the pattern of what seems to be a vinyl tile floor is quite visible on the left side of the photo, and not at all visible in a similarly illuminated background section on the right of the photo.

These anomalies indicate to me that a) two images were combined to create a final composite image; and b) that different lens apertures (altering the depth of field) were used to capture two images.

My conclusion is that the photo has been manipulated to make the broken bolt appear to be a M12 x 1.75, when in fact it is more likely the Steeda supplied M12 x 1.50 bolt; bottomed out and broken. The angle of the upper fracture indicates a significant off-axis application of torque.

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Note: there has been no resizing of the photo from that I received, nor have any of the cut and pasted sections/object been resized--only rotated to realign along the bolt's axes.

In case anyone cares, IT forensics is one of the consulting services I provide when not talking/writing about Mustangs...

Shampue

So what you're saying is Mrs. White, in the Lounge with the Candlestick?

cliffyk

Not being a gamer I don't know the analogy--my computer gaming has been for years cracking protection schemes, and work such as presented above.

It would be nice to know the story though?

Shampue

Clue! Board game my friend. Back in the day of cards, dice and a folding cardboard game table



I tried to make a joke, but I'm terrible.

cliffyk

Goes to show how much an old mechanical engineer knows about games--it's always been an annoyance to my wife that I do play them whith here and children/grandchildren--board or otherwise...