Aluminum flywheel, one piece driveshaft review?
#1
Aluminum flywheel, one piece driveshaft review?
How much of a difference do you feel and how much does it change the characteristics of the driving experience?
3.73 or 4.10 gears, manual trans.
2008 Bullitt I am looking at has 3.73's, might drive that around until 4.10's. I think it already comes with a short throw shifter.
Any other mods that would help improve throttle response and driving feel would also be appreciated.
3.73 or 4.10 gears, manual trans.
2008 Bullitt I am looking at has 3.73's, might drive that around until 4.10's. I think it already comes with a short throw shifter.
Any other mods that would help improve throttle response and driving feel would also be appreciated.
#2
An aluminum drive shaft is a major mod that will free up power. Going with any lightweight parts on the drive train like a aluminum flywheel and driveshaft reduce rotation mass which improved your acceleration, throttle response, and actually helps put more power to the ground and less parasitic loss.
I currently daily drive 4.10's on my 05 GT 50/50 city/highway and love them. Wouldn't trade them as long as I was NA. 4.10's are probably a bit much for a supercharged car.
A tune is the biggest thing to improve drivability and throttle response. I have a ported and polished stock throttlebody that seemed to improve throttle response slightly. Under drive pulleys will also increase response.
I currently daily drive 4.10's on my 05 GT 50/50 city/highway and love them. Wouldn't trade them as long as I was NA. 4.10's are probably a bit much for a supercharged car.
A tune is the biggest thing to improve drivability and throttle response. I have a ported and polished stock throttlebody that seemed to improve throttle response slightly. Under drive pulleys will also increase response.
#3
DSS driveshaft was a huge improvement for me. Feels like the cars gas pedal is directly connected to the rear wheels. The gas pedal mod is another way to improve throttle repsonse. Its not talked about much anymore but what a difference it makes.
#4
I have an exedy LW Steel flywheel coupled with an exedy mach 500 clutch, and a DSS alum driveshaft. The butt dyno feels it, and the car seems to respond much better, the driveline thunk from the 2-piece is gone (but there is still some in the gears, though I'm starting to wonder if its actually my motor mounts the motor is thunking on... It's a well worth it investment
#5
An aluminum drive shaft is a major mod that will free up power. Going with any lightweight parts on the drive train like a aluminum flywheel and driveshaft reduce rotation mass which improved your acceleration, throttle response, and actually helps put more power to the ground and less parasitic loss.
I have an exedy LW Steel flywheel coupled with an exedy mach 500 clutch, and a DSS alum driveshaft. The butt dyno feels it, and the car seems to respond much better, the driveline thunk from the 2-piece is gone (but there is still some in the gears, though I'm starting to wonder if its actually my motor mounts the motor is thunking on... It's a well worth it investment
#7
#8
You don't necessarily need to do that though.
I tried a simple trick first that worked for me and still does...
I put a piece of very thin sheet metal (from a Toyota fender, lol) secured by double sided tape between the pedal and its housing.
Basically, it works as a spacer so it eliminates the free play of the fly by wire system.
It's like the pedal is always depressed but not enough to affect the idling.
Try that first and if it doesn't work, then you'll have to decide if you want to open everything up like the OP did in that linked thread...
Edit: lol Stealth, you're too fast for me!
#9
lol forum search button pro
For me personally, I never tried the gas pedal trick because of safety issues. I don't really need an overly sensitive gas pedal and messing with it only sounds like a bad idea.
For me personally, I never tried the gas pedal trick because of safety issues. I don't really need an overly sensitive gas pedal and messing with it only sounds like a bad idea.
#10
Yes it is: https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...-must-see.html
You don't necessarily need to do that though.
I tried a simple trick first that worked for me and still does...
I put a piece of very thin sheet metal (from a Toyota fender, lol) secured by double sided tape between the pedal and its housing.
Basically, it works as a spacer so it eliminates the free play of the fly by wire system.
It's like the pedal is always depressed but not enough to affect the idling.
Try that first and if it doesn't work, then you'll have to decide if you want to open everything up like the OP did in that linked thread...
Edit: lol Stealth, you're too fast for me!
You don't necessarily need to do that though.
I tried a simple trick first that worked for me and still does...
I put a piece of very thin sheet metal (from a Toyota fender, lol) secured by double sided tape between the pedal and its housing.
Basically, it works as a spacer so it eliminates the free play of the fly by wire system.
It's like the pedal is always depressed but not enough to affect the idling.
Try that first and if it doesn't work, then you'll have to decide if you want to open everything up like the OP did in that linked thread...
Edit: lol Stealth, you're too fast for me!