My Mustang was sitting for 3 years before I got it. It runs and all, but always on the first, coldstart, it doesn't want to fire up. If I pump the gas a few times, it might catch after 2 tries. And then after that it will start on the first try. If I let it sit for an hour, it back to the same thing. I had an issue with the starter (from an earlier post) but I think I got that fixed (new battery cables and a blanket). I think it's a fuel problem, but since I'm not an expert on this, I thought I'd check with you guys who know more.

Thanks

 

It could very well be a fuel issue. I've had a leaky mechanical fuel pump that would basic leak all the gas out from between the carb and the fuel pump, I think it even drained the bowl on the carb like a siphon. The car would act just as you described, but I definitely would notice a strong smell of gasoline after it had been running. I found the leaking pump and replaced and the problem went away. Check for fuel leaks in the system.

Also, these older cars don't have electronic ignition (I'm assuming the distributor is still stock original style) If the the points are bad or aren't set properly and/or the distributor cap, rotor, wires or plugsare bad, you might see a problemlike this as well.....not getting a strong enough spark at the plugs toignite the fuel properly when it is cold. When the engine is warm the fuel burns easier and the problem isn't as noticeable. It could also be timing.

If you don't find any fuel leaks, you might have the car tuned up by someone that knows about these types of ignition systems and have the carb adjusted too.

 

hard one to tell. but if your engine is turning over fine, then we can be sure it's not a battery/starter issue.
must be air/fuel or ignition
guess would be on air fuel. when you pump and it helps it seems to be to lean before that. so did you ever check on the choke?
Do you have one? if yes is it thermocontrolled or manual or electric? what carb do you have?

when the engine is cold remove the aircleaner and check on the top of the carb. The choke plate (the upper on in carb thraot) should be nearly closed after you pushed the pedal down once fully.

Kalli

 

Sounds like an accerator pump issue. While you are checking the choke, look into the carb and make sure it squirts while you work the throttle linkage.

 

Thanks guys. I haven't seen any leaks in the fuel line or near the carb where the line goes into it.As far as the carb, I believe it's a 2100 but I dont rememberif it's a man/elect choke; I'll have to check. I'll have to check it again, butI think the choke platestays about 1/4in open after I press the pedal all the way down.

 

Choke problem.

 

the 2100 have thermo controlled choke (heat riser).
although quarter inch doesn't sounds too bad (much better than fully open),
there's an article on how to adjust the choke on a 2100:

http://www.hurtle.com/cars/mustang/fixes/carb/
check step 6. Can be done with carb on car as well

as well there are to plastic pieces on the carb for the choke that tend to break, so check on them as well)
one is tused for adjusting the fast idle and the other for the choke plate (little plastic nut on top of carb)

best of luck. I'd say you try that first and then we'll go from there.
The description is kinda awkward when you've never done it before. so any questions ask. I'll have to do it again as well, so I might take proper pictures and explain the steps another way next week ...

 

Thanks for the link Kalli. I'm going to check it out today.

I did look at it last night and I'm pretty sure it has a manual choke. I tried to turn that black **** and that thing seemed like it was stuck. Maybe this wasn't good but I pressed the carb plate closed a little more so that it was almost closed and it seemed to start a bit better. I'll have to fiddle with it some more.

Thanks guys

 

Offtopic(almost) sorry for thei thread hijack, but does anyone have any ideas why my engine stalls and died when I make a left U-turn at 10-15mph? Only happens if I let off the gas and it's a left turn to go 180 degrees in the opposite direction, if I make a right turn to change direction it keeps running. It also always starts on the first crank after. It's such a rare occurrence that I'm not really worried, but I have been caught off-guard by it.

Ontopic: I've got somewhat similar cold starting problems, but not nearly as severe. If I haven't run my car for a few days, I get in and pump the pedal about 4-6 times and it will start right away. I have checked the accelerator pump and it is very strong. After it's run a bit, It'll also start on the first crank for the rest of the day. If I don't prime it a bunch at the first cold start, no amount of cranking will get her to fire at all. I've checked the timing and the choke plate looks like it's in the right position when I go to start it. I think I'm going to switch my distributor to electronic pickup next.

 

smeezor, pls make a new thread for that, it's getting to confusing otherwise.

pwrl3ss: as for the choke.
You can identify this very easy. If it has a black plastic cylinder mounted to the carb, then it's thermo controlled.
Manual choke carb does not have this one.
(electronic controlled choke will have electrical wiring going to the carb, but I never heard of an Autolite with elec controlled choke).
ergo: if you have that black cylinder, then follow that article I sent


if you don't have one, then you need to free up the choke cable (replace ?)

Kalli