jtmustang

the z cam will also cause a piston to valve clearance on a stock bottom end i believe.

contentsunderpressur

I'm going to go with the 306 stroker. I'll have them fly cut the pistons if needed.

mjr46

no!!!! incorrect that would be for a solid lift cam, on a hydraulic roller cam set up adjusting rockers that are stud mount is done by bringing each cylinder up to tdc using the tdc method and starting at no.1 and following firing order adjust the rocker until there is 0 lash/ slight drag on push rod then from there 1/4 to 1/2 turn max then lock the polylock then roll motor over to next cyl in firing order so it is on tdc and repeat steps until all are done:d

jtmustang

^^^306 stroker???? a 306 is just a 302 bored .030 over if your building this from scratch 347 all the way.

GT4HUTCH

If you want to see if a if a particular cam and set of 1.7 rr's will work for you check this out. The VALVE LIFT for my Lunati cam is .526/.523 with 1.6 ratio rocker arms. So, just divide .526/.523 by the rocker ratio of 1.6 . It works out to be .328/.326 LOBE LIFT at the cam. Then multiply .328/.326 by your rocker ratio of 1.7 equals .557/.554 VALVE LIFT. This cam will work with my heads which have a max valve lift of .575.

HACKGT350

if you want to know what your lift will be with 1.7's take your total lift divide it by 1.6 which will get you cam lift then multiply it by 1.7 that will give you your new total lift

mjr46

.030 more lift is a close approxiamate on ratio change

contentsunderpressur

What are the length of the stock rods? I found a "306 stroker" kit that has rods that are 5.090 long. I may go bigger though, like the 331. I've heard the 347 is hell on the block? The cam I'm looking at has a .552 lift and the springs on the heads I'm looking at has a rating of .550. I guess I need to get better springs than that since I need to add about .030 to the lift then?