FivePointOhh

i just want to make sure i know what im doing when i get my heads and cam together.


i talked to some people and i think im going to stick with my original plan of

'66 289 heads 1.94 1.5 valves, studded, hardland 1.6's, and comp xe270 LSA 114. i got lots of feedback about my set up from a few peeps and it sounds like the nicest to my budget and should serve well to my goals. i didnt ask the guy but is the cam im looking at a SADI cam? how do i find out? anyone know without calling the company?


anyways to make sure i do everything correctly so i get the correct pushrod length and ensure my ptv clearance since i was told it'd be close and i might have to degree it but start with what the cam card says and go from there



ok so i install my cam on the dots
drop in a set of intake and exhaust lifters rotate until the exhaust lifter starts to lift
then set up a dial indicator on the intake lifter and zero it out
then crank the motor until i reach max lift and compare to the cam card
if its within specs i then install my head WITH gasket and measure pushrods
order the proper push rods

lay some putty/clay over the piston
then i will install the heads WITHOUT gasket and the new pushrods
hand crank the motor over twice and un-install the head
dissect the clay and measure how thick the clay is at the lowest point.

now what is too close? anyone have a guideline i should go by?

now is what i just described correct? or am i mis-understanding how to properly set my valvetrain? i want to make it right so i can potentially run higher revs. from what has been explained to me if i set everything up correctly and everything matches i should be able to still able to pull up to 6500rpms without it dropping off maybe even higher if my intake performs as it should since its been ported.


i appreciate any input.

cleanfitty

I'm purty sure you have to use head gaskets when claying it.

FivePointOhh

i was told to clay it without gaskets to account for thermal expansion. i could have heard wrong though. if it clears without the gasket it should deff. clear with the gasket....right?

cleanfitty

Don't know for sure, but you should also use a solid lifter as well when claying becasue the hydraulic one may not be fully expanded (no oil pressure) and will alter the results.

I think MJR has a way to convert an old hyd into a solid one.

FivePointOhh

ooo, good tip. i didnt know that. good to know


do you know if that cam selection with the supporting double springs /w hardened rods will collapse the stock lifters or should i be ok?

cleanfitty

I would have to let the experts chime in on that...

but here is a quote from adder

FivePointOhh

sweet. ill have to save that. thanks!

Joel5.0

XE270HR = SADI core camshaft, 986-16 or 987-16 springs, no.... lifters will not "collapse".... HR lifters can take their fare share of spring pressure w/out collapsing even with more aggressive springs than the ones recommended otherwise, something else is snafu.

Need to make 2 HR lifters solid to check for PTV + a used head gasket to get real results. LUK

94StinkinLincoln

from personal experience here...that cam + FMS lifters and RPM head factory spring (110-120 spring) they will push the lifter down. you have to make it solid. its not hard, a vise to hold it helps alot (use a rag around it and dont tighten it too much) and a small flat blade screw driver.

i had total valve float @ 5800 with the above mentioned combo.

mjr46

I do just what joel mentions I have a few 1011-2 gaskets sitting around just for the cause that are used