Power loss, hesitatation, sputter, chug
09-13-2009, 02:49 PM
#51
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: I've been everywhere, man
Posts: 437
Your car can have codes without the lights on. Get a Haynes manual for the love of god. There are three different codes, Memory codes, Key on engine off codes, and Key on Engine on codes. If you get a code 14 (which I'm feeling you'll prolly get since it doesn't light up when running) you need a new $50 distributor. My car was doing the same thing for three years till I figured that out. If that is the problem, make sure you get the exact distributor (i.e. cast iron vs. steel) you are replacing, otherwise you'll royally fu** up your engine like the good Mark Neib did (see sig).
09-14-2009, 08:30 PM
#53
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
Your car can have codes without the lights on. Get a Haynes manual for the love of god. There are three different codes, Memory codes, Key on engine off codes, and Key on Engine on codes. If you get a code 14 (which I'm feeling you'll prolly get since it doesn't light up when running) you need a new $50 distributor. My car was doing the same thing for three years till I figured that out. If that is the problem, make sure you get the exact distributor (i.e. cast iron vs. steel) you are replacing, otherwise you'll royally fu** up your engine like the good Mark Neib did (see sig).
My timing is at 13, as of two years ago. I'm going to check that as soon as my timing gun gets returned to me.
As it turns out, something came up and I need the money else where. So, I'm putting this all off until I have the time as well. (I'm moving; in the middle of legal issues)
11-17-2009, 10:13 AM
#54
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
So, I FINALLY got the time to go out to were my car is stored. I got my timing light back.
Found out that my timing wandered to 20 degrees. I turned it back to 13. It runs A LOT better. Did an Idle Setting Procedure as well.
The car still shows some lag. My vacuum gauge now reads at 15 instead of 10. I want to get to read at a consistent 18-20.
Found out that my timing wandered to 20 degrees. I turned it back to 13. It runs A LOT better. Did an Idle Setting Procedure as well.
The car still shows some lag. My vacuum gauge now reads at 15 instead of 10. I want to get to read at a consistent 18-20.
11-17-2009, 01:56 PM
#55
Yes. Stop replacing parts and start diagnosing the problem. This will save you a lot of money, hassle and not any perfectly good parts tossed into the trash can.
By your description, it sounds like the ignition timing isn't being advanced enough when you accelerate. Look closely at the old spark plugs and see if they look fuel fouled or covered in deposits. Go to AllData.com or AutoZone and buy an All Data repair guide for your car. Diagnose, don't replace.
By your description, it sounds like the ignition timing isn't being advanced enough when you accelerate. Look closely at the old spark plugs and see if they look fuel fouled or covered in deposits. Go to AllData.com or AutoZone and buy an All Data repair guide for your car. Diagnose, don't replace.
Last edited by RogerDodger1; 11-18-2009 at 01:27 PM.
11-17-2009, 06:35 PM
#56
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
The things that I replaced, i did in fact need, all besides the fuel lines.. fan and clutch were inevitable.. The car still runs iffy... But I agree with you, I should diagnose a little more... and it would help me out in many ways.
I did in fact look at the spark plugs, when I replaced them, and they looked fine - gaps were still good, no deposits, wear, or fuel fouled.
My next form action is to get my mechanic to run codes.
I did in fact look at the spark plugs, when I replaced them, and they looked fine - gaps were still good, no deposits, wear, or fuel fouled.
My next form action is to get my mechanic to run codes.
11-18-2009, 01:28 PM
#57
For what you pay a mechanic to check for trouble codes, you can purchase a $50 scanner at Sears and do it yourself, or go to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone and the will scan the car/check for trouble codes for you for free.
11-18-2009, 06:03 PM
#59
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
GOOD STUFF HUH??? and it's free
