HELP!!! Ive tried everything!!
#1
HELP!!! Ive tried everything!!
HELP!!! Ive tried everything!!
1991 Mustang 5.0 GT .....
Loud popping noise while in acceleration. Now when I accelerate, the loud "explosion sound" under the car occurs and it shuts-off.
Weve replaced everything mechanically ...all sensors, egr valve, everything checks out great. Just wont drive. (goes 2 miles per hour to get it home).
no backfires. Any ideas?????? possibly electrical??? My guys have replaced the computer, and tested everything else???
please help!! its been a month w/o this car and life sucks!!!!!
Appreciate any ideas!!!! thanx!
ps- engine runs perfect when started and idleing.
1991 Mustang 5.0 GT .....
Loud popping noise while in acceleration. Now when I accelerate, the loud "explosion sound" under the car occurs and it shuts-off.
Weve replaced everything mechanically ...all sensors, egr valve, everything checks out great. Just wont drive. (goes 2 miles per hour to get it home).
no backfires. Any ideas?????? possibly electrical??? My guys have replaced the computer, and tested everything else???
please help!! its been a month w/o this car and life sucks!!!!!
Appreciate any ideas!!!! thanx!
ps- engine runs perfect when started and idleing.
#4
5.0's dont have knock sensors.
In addition to my previous post about the spout connector, if you have the factory cat's in the exhaust system, they could be plugged up and cause exactly what you describe.
In addition to my previous post about the spout connector, if you have the factory cat's in the exhaust system, they could be plugged up and cause exactly what you describe.
#5
Matt is probably right on one of the two answers he gave you.
on some exhaust you can see if the pipes have turned blue from glowing red. Or you can crank it up and see if they glow. Some cats will rattle too is they have came apart.
on some exhaust you can see if the pipes have turned blue from glowing red. Or you can crank it up and see if they glow. Some cats will rattle too is they have came apart.
#7
hey by the way try hooking a fuel reader on that thing and see if its dumping gas into the exhaust sometime a fpr will go out and dump fuel into the cats causing the honey comb in the cat to melt causing a block
#8
hey--thanks. will try all of those ideas ...question though, what or where is the spout connector. the cats are the catalytic convertors? right? il let you all know if any of those ideas solve the problems.
thanks again!!
thanks again!!
#9
yes the cats are the catalytic converters. the stock H-pipe will have 4, 2 on each side.
If its a stock pipe its a pretty good bet that they aren't in the best shape. The problem is that there really isn't a way to visually check the inside of them without dropping the pipe. You could try unbolting each flange from the headers just enough so that you create an exhaust leak inbetween them... this should supply enough exhaust flow to allow the vehicle to accelerate beyond what it currently can.
The spout connector is the plug that completes the circuit in the TFI module/PIP sensor, in this case if the spout was bad or not even there, you wouldn't have any computer controlled ignition advance, and the car would basically become a slug past 10mph.
Right near the distributor you should see a small wiring harness, with 2 wires. Those 2 wires will be joined together at the connector with the Spout connector.
It will look very similar to this.
To test it, simply make a jumper wire and connect the 2 prongs inside the connector end after removing the spout. It just pulls out.
If its a stock pipe its a pretty good bet that they aren't in the best shape. The problem is that there really isn't a way to visually check the inside of them without dropping the pipe. You could try unbolting each flange from the headers just enough so that you create an exhaust leak inbetween them... this should supply enough exhaust flow to allow the vehicle to accelerate beyond what it currently can.
The spout connector is the plug that completes the circuit in the TFI module/PIP sensor, in this case if the spout was bad or not even there, you wouldn't have any computer controlled ignition advance, and the car would basically become a slug past 10mph.
Right near the distributor you should see a small wiring harness, with 2 wires. Those 2 wires will be joined together at the connector with the Spout connector.
It will look very similar to this.
To test it, simply make a jumper wire and connect the 2 prongs inside the connector end after removing the spout. It just pulls out.
Last edited by mattdel; 04-12-2010 at 03:02 PM.