car started "bucking" at low rpm
#11
is this bucking more of a shuttering? if so then its could be ignition related. whats you fuel pressure at?
my SHO does it after driving a long distance because oil leaks down onto the spark plugs and makes it shutter. once i bring the rpms up a bit it goes away. i have to replace the valve cover gaskets and plug tube seals. but dont worry about that because our cars dont have this.
my SHO does it after driving a long distance because oil leaks down onto the spark plugs and makes it shutter. once i bring the rpms up a bit it goes away. i have to replace the valve cover gaskets and plug tube seals. but dont worry about that because our cars dont have this.
#12
i used 24s because the 25's were looking a bit cooked... very white.
the engine has always knocked a bit, too. I can simply hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve on the fuel line, right?
according to msd 40-50 ohms per foot is low. yeah i gapped the plugs.
the engine has always knocked a bit, too. I can simply hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve on the fuel line, right?
according to msd 40-50 ohms per foot is low. yeah i gapped the plugs.
#13
but your reasoning for buying 24s? why not new 25s?
too white? sounds like you are running lean
yes you can just hook up a gauge to the shrader valve.
for permanent gauge there you need:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-26-69/
and
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3280/
and a 1/8" NPT fuel gauge
too white? sounds like you are running lean
yes you can just hook up a gauge to the shrader valve.
for permanent gauge there you need:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-26-69/
and
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3280/
and a 1/8" NPT fuel gauge
Last edited by nacanitihs; 07-20-2010 at 03:34 PM.
#15
sweet! thanks for the link and all the help. i really appreciate it!
sorry i haven't been able to keep you updated. i had my wisdom teeth pulled and it didn't go very well.
so i replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, and cap and rotor. those didn't work.
i never got around to checking the fuel pressure, but i will just out of curiosity.
the only other thing i had changed were the spark plugs. i bought motorcraft plugs (plain old stock ones). that did the it. my car runs great now! i'm a little amazed that the plugs made that much difference.
the old wires were the original!! even had the date on them, so i'm sure it didn't hurt to replace them or the cap and rotor.
it seems like it still might be running a bit lean though.
i really appreciate all the help! this is why i love mf!
sorry i haven't been able to keep you updated. i had my wisdom teeth pulled and it didn't go very well.
so i replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, and cap and rotor. those didn't work.
i never got around to checking the fuel pressure, but i will just out of curiosity.
the only other thing i had changed were the spark plugs. i bought motorcraft plugs (plain old stock ones). that did the it. my car runs great now! i'm a little amazed that the plugs made that much difference.
the old wires were the original!! even had the date on them, so i'm sure it didn't hurt to replace them or the cap and rotor.
it seems like it still might be running a bit lean though.
i really appreciate all the help! this is why i love mf!
#16
SP-445s im assuming? ya from what you said about your plugs being white id say you were a bit lean. stock injectors and everything i believe your fuel pressure sould be around 35 at idle and 45 with the vac line to the FPR blocked (simulates WOT)..
mine is 30 idle and 40 with the line plugged but im running 24# injectors and im still a little on the rich side. my AFR is about 12.3 from idle to 6k
good to see you are up and running again! even tho all the wires, cap & rotor, etc didnt fix it they prob needed to be changed anyway
also i would replace the $11 fuel filter, which may also fix your lean issue
mine is 30 idle and 40 with the line plugged but im running 24# injectors and im still a little on the rich side. my AFR is about 12.3 from idle to 6k
good to see you are up and running again! even tho all the wires, cap & rotor, etc didnt fix it they prob needed to be changed anyway
also i would replace the $11 fuel filter, which may also fix your lean issue
Last edited by nacanitihs; 07-23-2010 at 07:24 AM.
#18
I love my ford racing wires, they were a decent upgrade and matched my silicone hoses, but in all seriousness a set of motorcraft or msd should be ok, the msd rotor and cap have a better fit than any other I've tried too. It wouldn't surprise me at all if thats your miss, also, when was the last time you put a fuel filter in? I would pull and and catch the gas out of it and see if there's any water in it (happened to my sisters car, terrible miss under power)
#19
whats wrong with a permanent gauge? i have one. its nice to have under there. but you could buy a tester for $40.. i bought this a while ago then decided to go permanent cuz im running nitrous. but its a pain to keep hooking up the tester and checking it. plus the little thing that pushes the stem in can bend or you can lose it easily...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7818/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7818/
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