lack of power
07-31-2013, 03:54 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: tennessee
Posts: 29
lack of power
i just recently bought a 95 mustang gt and it seems very very sluggish mainly at low end it has 200k miles on it but i checked compression and everything is very even ranging from 136-138 and has a steady fuel pressure and i have already replaced all the spark plugs wires dist cap and button where could i go next to try and get some pep back into this motor it does have a small miss that seems to be getting worse
07-31-2013, 04:11 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
Is the engine unmolested, meaning all stock?
Is this your first sn95? They are sluggish compared to the foxes.
Is your cel lit or flashing? If yes pull codes If no pull codes any ways.
http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908
Clean maf, check air cleaner, check for vacuum leaks , check egr functionality , remove and clean egr valve or cap it off with a plate.
Do you know yet what your base timing is? and are you sure the jumper wire they used in place of the spout is making contact? ( why I suggested replacing it or using a on/off switch. )
If the computer cannot control timing advance the car will be extremely sluggish.
Is this your first sn95? They are sluggish compared to the foxes.
Is your cel lit or flashing? If yes pull codes If no pull codes any ways.
http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908
Clean maf, check air cleaner, check for vacuum leaks , check egr functionality , remove and clean egr valve or cap it off with a plate.
Do you know yet what your base timing is? and are you sure the jumper wire they used in place of the spout is making contact? ( why I suggested replacing it or using a on/off switch. )
If the computer cannot control timing advance the car will be extremely sluggish.
07-31-2013, 04:27 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: tennessee
Posts: 29
yeah this is my first sn95 i had a 87 that i loved my my gf was scared of it and i was stupid enough to sell it i am pretty sure that the jumper is making contact but i may try and take your sugestion and wire it alittle better gts are hard to find at the junk yards around here so probally wont be able to find a new clip as far as removing the egr will it have any problems with the computer with it not being there? and the car is mostly stock but it has a after market distributor and cold air intake and i hope its not this sluggish normally it will barely turn the tires over when i brake tourqe it
07-31-2013, 04:43 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
Lol well its an auto so that's even worse . That trans is a slush box.
No the egr will not cause a problem with the computer , how ever it will set a dtc. I run mine with out it but the check engine light is always on after a few min of driving.
The first thing I would do is check to see where you base timing is at with the spout jumper out. It should be at least 10 but bumping it up to 12 , 13 or even 14 can have a significant effect on the performance . Just be carful you don't go too far or it will cause pre ignition knock and that is bad for those cast aluminum pistons. Some higher octane fuel will likely be required to help remedy the pinging.
Start at bumping the timing to 12 btc drive it and if you don't get any pinging bump to 13 if you start to notice pinging back it down till you don't have any ping at any throttle position.
Get some pics out man , I love to see what you got.
These cars can really be improved on with some very basic mods, such as a set of after market headers. The stock headers are weak and choke the engine due to there 1" diameter. I suggest long tubes but even a set of 1 5/8" diameter shortys will due a much better job than the stock ones.
If you can find a wrecked late 90s explorer in the junk yard rob the upper and lower intake and use that intake inplace of the stock intake. This will allow the engine to breath even more. If you are mechanical rob the heads from the explorer also.
Look up the gt40 swap on these cars it does make a vast difference.
swapping the stock 3.08 gears ( and the autos may have 3.27s ) for a set of 3.73 4.10 really puts the rpms in the power band much sooner and adds a lot of torque for the money spent.
As for the mileage I wouldn't even worry about that, these engines can hit over 300,000 with correct mait. and frequent oil changes. It sounds as if your compression is still very good.
No the egr will not cause a problem with the computer , how ever it will set a dtc. I run mine with out it but the check engine light is always on after a few min of driving.
The first thing I would do is check to see where you base timing is at with the spout jumper out. It should be at least 10 but bumping it up to 12 , 13 or even 14 can have a significant effect on the performance . Just be carful you don't go too far or it will cause pre ignition knock and that is bad for those cast aluminum pistons. Some higher octane fuel will likely be required to help remedy the pinging.
Start at bumping the timing to 12 btc drive it and if you don't get any pinging bump to 13 if you start to notice pinging back it down till you don't have any ping at any throttle position.
Get some pics out man , I love to see what you got.
These cars can really be improved on with some very basic mods, such as a set of after market headers. The stock headers are weak and choke the engine due to there 1" diameter. I suggest long tubes but even a set of 1 5/8" diameter shortys will due a much better job than the stock ones.
If you can find a wrecked late 90s explorer in the junk yard rob the upper and lower intake and use that intake inplace of the stock intake. This will allow the engine to breath even more. If you are mechanical rob the heads from the explorer also.
Look up the gt40 swap on these cars it does make a vast difference.
swapping the stock 3.08 gears ( and the autos may have 3.27s ) for a set of 3.73 4.10 really puts the rpms in the power band much sooner and adds a lot of torque for the money spent.
As for the mileage I wouldn't even worry about that, these engines can hit over 300,000 with correct mait. and frequent oil changes. It sounds as if your compression is still very good.
07-31-2013, 11:41 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 193
Auto is in any mustang before the new 5.0 is going to fill a bit sluggish. I live and die by a manual when I buy a V8 mustang. The SN95 auto is a slug! I know first hand I watched one do a 1/4 once completely stock it was a ugly 16.something! I am thinking 16.4 and imo that is pretty slow.
I wouldn't get to discouraged there is always something you can do to the car to open it up. Increase the fuel and air flow and put some gears like 3.55's or 3.73's that will really bring the car to life.
I wouldn't get to discouraged there is always something you can do to the car to open it up. Increase the fuel and air flow and put some gears like 3.55's or 3.73's that will really bring the car to life.
08-01-2013, 12:32 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: tennessee
Posts: 29
i figured alot of it was the tranny which in the long run i plan on changing it over i have read alot of doing it and seems like something i could accomplish just saving up parts atm would going to a 3.73 be to much when i do get around to changing it over?
08-02-2013, 03:15 PM
#7
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 18
I would suggest a 3.73 or even a 4.10 gear. Then a 2300 to 2500 locking stall converter. Just add a deep trans cooling pan, the finned aluminum one, and even a large B&M stacked plate trans cooler.
My last car wouldn't spin the tires if I floored it from a stop. My 60ft times at the track were 2.05 sec. After the converter I had to peddle the car a ton. It felt sooo much lighter on its feet all the time, and my 60ft dropped to a consistent 1.77. That's a pretty big difference to me. I would do gear first and converter second. You wouldn't believe the difference.
Jerry
My last car wouldn't spin the tires if I floored it from a stop. My 60ft times at the track were 2.05 sec. After the converter I had to peddle the car a ton. It felt sooo much lighter on its feet all the time, and my 60ft dropped to a consistent 1.77. That's a pretty big difference to me. I would do gear first and converter second. You wouldn't believe the difference.
Jerry
08-02-2013, 03:39 PM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
I would suggest a 3.73 or even a 4.10 gear. Then a 2300 to 2500 locking stall converter. Just add a deep trans cooling pan, the finned aluminum one, and even a large B&M stacked plate trans cooler.
My last car wouldn't spin the tires if I floored it from a stop. My 60ft times at the track were 2.05 sec. After the converter I had to peddle the car a ton. It felt sooo much lighter on its feet all the time, and my 60ft dropped to a consistent 1.77. That's a pretty big difference to me. I would do gear first and converter second. You wouldn't believe the difference.
Jerry
My last car wouldn't spin the tires if I floored it from a stop. My 60ft times at the track were 2.05 sec. After the converter I had to peddle the car a ton. It felt sooo much lighter on its feet all the time, and my 60ft dropped to a consistent 1.77. That's a pretty big difference to me. I would do gear first and converter second. You wouldn't believe the difference.
Jerry
Definatly I always do a gear swap before any thing else. every time I bought a mustang I was thinking of gears before the paper work was even signed lol
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