Sturm

Strut question... I know the bounce test but, what happens if the strut doesnt bounce or move much? My front driver side will bounce once, but passenger side will wont move much? Is there other ways in testing? What strut brands are recommend.... Is it a easy job? Could I get some advise on doing this...


Thanks

uedlose

sounds like you need struts to me. I have seen them seize before. I like the Strange 10 way adj. myself they dont cost that much and you can tune the suspension to your liking also. the job is not bad at all

Sturm

So i jacked up the seized strut. The strut will extent. I see no oil if it was leaking. Ill drop it down and no sag either both sides look level. If I try to left from the wheel well its rock solid Push down! No movement! Ive never heard of seized strut. I know i need new struts... Is it possible? mileage 67,000


Thanks

Maxwelhse

First, make sure nothing goofy if jammed up in the spring or wheel well that is stopping the strut from compressing. I doubt that is going on, but check it out anyhow.

That said... Struts aren't that hard on a car with those miles (suspension bolts are hopefully not rusty). They certainly need replaced.

Jack up the front, support it *well* on stands at the unibody lift points (and a jack and block of wood 1/8" under the pan to play it safe... borrow a second floor jack if you don't have 2, set E-brake and chalk rear wheels), remove tires, remove and wire up caliper (NOT to spring... it's coming out), remove sway bar links, remove the 2 nuts holding A arms into K member (leave the bolts alone), jack up A arm under spring cup until bolts are free (may need to move the jack around a couple of times to get the position right), carefully tap bolts out of A arm (this is why you have a jack under the oil pan... you may slightly pick the car up off of a stand while compressing the spring so safety is a must) while being careful to do it from the SIDE and not UNDER the arm/jack, gently let jack down. The coil spring will fall out on the ground, the strut will decompress, and then it's just a matter of a few nuts and bolts and the strut is out. Reverse process for installation except add loctite RED to A arm and strut/spindle bolts upon assembly. Blue everywhere else (loctite is super cheap on Amazon) except caliper pins. You'll want to clean and grease those with disc brake grease.

You MIGHT break off your sway bar links in the process. The Energy Suspension links (available at Autozone and probably even cheaper on Amazon) are a decent upgrade and are cheap. If your ball joints and tie rod ends are questionable now is the time to knock them out too since you'll be right there. Same with brake pads. At 67,000 they should be OK, but check. Good time to upgrade coil bushings to poly too. They're also cheap from ES.

It's the exact same procedure as SAFELY installing lowering springs (soooo... do that too if you want). It sounds scarier and harder than it is. It will take about 3 hours to do both struts if you've never done it before. You'll only need basic hand tools and torque wrench for setting the A arm and strut bolts when you're done. A 2' long 1/2 breaker bar from Harbor Freight ($10?) might also be nice to have.

I have seen people do it by taking the strut off with the spring still under pressure (rather than just drop the A arm) but that approach scares the crap outta me since your face is going to be right in front of a coil spring that has weight on it while you take the strut bolts out of the spindle (see video at 94 seconds). I prefer to drop the A arm since even if the spring goes wild the A arm IS still connected to the car, via the strut, and is still "caged" by all those parts. Plus, good luck getting a stock height spring back in position without dropping the A arm.

You definitely want to replace BOTH struts, and if the rear shocks are OE, replace those too (dead simple... 6 nuts are they're out.. You'll want an impact gun or a helper and some vice grips for the top nuts though) I also like the Strange adjustables (and the price is excellent) but if your car is just a cruiser then whatever Monroe stuff will be fine and about 30% cheaper. Advance is having a sale right now that I THINK ends 7/5 (just bought a boatload of parts for my TJ) that is $40 off of $100 for online purchases. Code is TRT41. If your local stores don't have the parts and you need shipping to your house you'll have to buy another $15 (retail, $10 actual money) or so worth of other stuff, per "$100", to get free shipping on an order over $75 (100-40 = 60 after discount... They're jerks like that... Or $50/$150 if it works better that way... Code WD526 good until 7/4). Make as many $100/$150 purchases as you need. I made 6 for my TJ parts and my "savings" before tax was 34% off "retail". You can do better on Amazon or Rock Auto, but for lifetime warranty stuff (like most Monroe stuff) I didn't want to mess with trying to return stuff to an online retailer later if it failed. Motor oil doesn't count in the sale, but gear oil, tranny fluid, and filters do if you need to buy "extra" stuff to hit a price. They carry Mobil 1 and Royal Purple (as well as cheaper conventional stuff). I hope that helps you. I'm in no way affiliated with Advance or anything.

You'll need to have the car aligned after the job is done.

I'm sure someone will disagree with me and say to follow the steps in the video or buy other stuff or whatever. Cool. What I told you is the way I did it and will do it again (my car is on B springs, Stranges, and ES bushings and it works good). Different strokes and all that.

If that's too daunting for you, I'd guess it's about a $300-500 job at a shop, plus parts, w/alignment. Get it to IN and I'll casually direct you, from my shop stool, for nothing if you buy the beer and pizza.

Good luck!

Sturm

Im having trouble getting those spindle nuts off... I PB Blasted them. My breaker bar isnt doing the trick? I bought 30" steel pipe for leverage. Is that a good idea? To use with my breaker bar. Which I will try tomorrow. Any tips I would appreciate in the what tools to use. I bought the Monroe Sensa-Trac struts. Also I need to repack my bearings. I was wondering the bottom nut, what can you use tool wise? or do have to take off rotor and back plate?.


Thank
Ken

Sandmanbjj

I am not going to disagree with max. But I will offer another way. Just incase it's easier.
This July 4th weekend I changed my kmember, a arms, coil over conversion, steering rack, sway bar end links, dump steer kit caster camber plates.
I agree, safety first. Jack stands on the subframe and it's not a bad idea to put a jack on the k member or g load brace just incase.
I used a jack under my a arm and just got it snug directly under the coil spring. Then unbolted my tie rod ends, sway bar end links and strut/spindle bolts. Unbolted the strut from the strut tower. Then slowly let the jack down until the strut came loose. No need to go further. But the coil spring will sit in the perch all the way to the floor.
But the potential for it to pop out is always a safety concern.
Swap your new strut in bolt it in at the top. Then jack the a arm back up with your floor jack and it compresses the coil spring and your strut as needed. Be sure to line up the holes on your spindle as you come back up. Bolt in place. Put the rest together and repeat on the other side.
As for the breaker bar. I see nothing you will hurt with a breaker Bar if you need it.
I believe the strut bolts are 21mm on one side and 15/16th on the other side.
Again not disagreeing with the previous advice. May be better, this is just the way I broke down my front end.

Sturm

Well got those nuts off.... They were crazy on! These were original struts. Putting struts on from there went smooth as glass. Thanks for all the help!!