waid302

New guy here. I am rebuilding my 5.0 with GT40 heads out of 1996 Ford Explorer with 250,000 miles. What inspired me was the article in September, 2008 issue of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords.

Ford Mustang Short-Block Engine Rebuild - Recession Special Part 1

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...1/viewall.html

I figure I post there since there is wealth of knowledge of 5.0. This is going in my 1964 Falcon and it had to be GT40 and not the GT40P due to very tight clearance. I was looking the 1996 for a long time and just about gave up on it. Couple of weeks ago I was at a Pic-a-part and found one and almost walked away. I thought since, I was there, I might as well take the intake off and the valve covers off and take a peek. What a surprise. I could not believe how clean it was. I took a chance and bought it and slowly I began the tear down process and all is good.

About the only thing I am planning to do is to hone the block, install new rings, cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings, a new timing gear set and new valve stem seals. Not sure about valve springs yet.

I would like some feedback.

Waid

waid302

Pics of bearings and crank.

waid302

waid302

waid302

http://forums.corral.net/forums/atta...t-dsc01287-jpg

waid302

The roller lifter is perfect and has no play in it. The pistons & combustion chambers do have carbon build up on and planning to clean them up with Formula 88. I could not do a compression test at pic-a-part but did turn over the motor and felt very tight. I don’t have a transmission yet so I removed all of the spark plugs, and reinstalled a plug one at a time to check compression by hand on each cylinder. Few of had few low but I think it was due to carbon build up on the valves and the chamber as shown in the pics.

This is what I am worried about. After having bead blast the valves, the intake valve looks fine but the exhaust valve does show some wear on it. I know I can new set of exhaust valves for about $50, but I think that would require re-machining of the valve seats.

I will be installing new valve seals. The springs looks fine too. It lasted this long and may try to use too! By the way, I will be using a carb with no EGR, cat or any pollution control stuff and keeping the original truck cam.

Since the wear pattern on the exhaust valves matches the valve seat, can I get away with just lapping the valves?



Thanks

waid302

For my Valves Guides, the Haynes Manual says for a 1993 Mustang 5.0 HO:

Valve Stem size is 0.3411” - 0.3418”
Valve Stem-to-Guide clearance: 0.0015” - 0.0032”
Service Limit: 0.005”

I measured my valves and they are 0.3410”. I also used a gauge pin and the largest one that I can go in was 0.3435. I could not get the 0.3440” to go in or just a hair. Therefore, my Valve Stem-to-Guide clearance is : 0.0025".

Now a 0.0025” is not the most ideal but still within spec. I guess that is still very good after 250,000 miles!

Since I don’t need new valve guides or a valve job, I will try the lap the valves in and use the money for new valves springs and possibly B303 or E303 cam?


Waid

caaraa

He's the one on the right.

jpbrockway

Looking forward to updates, I am currently in the process of building a GT40P 5.0 for a car that also is not a mustang!

rmodel65

they make headers to put the gt40p heads on early mustangs/falcons http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers2.htm