Dyno numbers, help!!!
#11
The runs need to be done in 5th gear since that is the 1:1 gear. Many people make the mistake of running in 4th (like in a 5speed). You get lower numbers in 4th. And yes, you need to completely turn off TC by holding the TC button. My 2011 did 389HP. People in 13's that day did like 340's due to not turning off TC.
Don't know...I was not there for the dyno run...hence also no pre run for baseline. This person supposedly has done hundreds of cars so I assumed they knew what they were doing. Something else I learned to today is that you don't just push traction control button off and acknowledge. You have to hold it in for longer than five seconds then acknowledge ok for the traction control system to be truly off. Track mode. Not sure if that was done as well. Purchased a tune from Steeda which should be here in a few days. Talked to there tune guy and he is 99% sure this should take care of issues. If the butt dyno thinks so I plan on taking it to the only other dyno in the area and see what it says. A bit frustrating to say the least.
#12
In my opinion the shop shows it's lack of skill by letting you dyno with preconceived expectations and no base dyno. I don't see how that scenario can end well (without them just inflating the numbers for bragging rights).
Good luck getting that 500whp "number."
Good luck getting that 500whp "number."
#13
#17
I hear ya, and I might end up there. The mechanic at our local Ford shop is a Roush guy all the way. Really trying to talk me into the FI route. The 500 rwhp NA is a personal goal that I wanted to achieve. A lot will depend on drivability. I don't want to sacrifice much of that and I'm concerned cams might do that. Heads are great from what I hear also but some mild porting and cleanup will always make things better.
#19
Thanks, and we will get there. You are correct in your assumptions on what was done and not done by the shop. They damaged the IMRC actuator as a result it started throwing codes and added a vacuum leak. There tuning on the dyno lacked some skill as well (actually lacked a lot, car ran like shi@). Lessoned learned on that.... At this point I am totally ignoring the dyno numbers. Since then then the vacuum leak is fixed, part on order from Ford, custom tune from SVE installed. Ran a stock 2015 GT the other night from a slight role, Auto car, pulled on it all the way. Very happy with fixes. Half shafts, drive shaft next. Then look at possible head work and cams. The 500rwhp NA is very doable.
If your goal is 500whp you should start thinking about what qualifies as that before you start digging.
Is it a dyno jet or mustang dyno that you want to tell you that? Is it a high 11 second 1/4 mile run that will tell you that you have 500whp?
Dynos are supposed to be used relatively and not objectively. If you started at 380 stock, then you tried your best to replicate the same conditions/dyno and went back and got 500.........
#20
Finding the issue is always a good feeling.
If your goal is 500whp you should start thinking about what qualifies as that before you start digging.
Is it a dyno jet or mustang dyno that you want to tell you that? Is it a high 11 second 1/4 mile run that will tell you that you have 500whp?
Dynos are supposed to be used relatively and not objectively. If you started at 380 stock, then you tried your best to replicate the same conditions/dyno and went back and got 500.........
If your goal is 500whp you should start thinking about what qualifies as that before you start digging.
Is it a dyno jet or mustang dyno that you want to tell you that? Is it a high 11 second 1/4 mile run that will tell you that you have 500whp?
Dynos are supposed to be used relatively and not objectively. If you started at 380 stock, then you tried your best to replicate the same conditions/dyno and went back and got 500.........
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