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Is a PAC C2R-FRD1 required on all Shaker 500 systems?

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Old 03-03-2011, 07:32 AM
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mark_byers39
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Default Is a PAC C2R-FRD1 required on all Shaker 500 systems?

I'm getting ready to buy a new head unit for my 06 GT (once it comes home from the body shop lol) and Crutchfield says my car requires a PAC C2R-FRD1 in order for a aftermarket stereo to work in my car. But when I was reading the reviews on it, someone said they ended up not needing it on their 06 GT with a shaker 500 system. Is it really needed on S197s with a shaker 500 system? I'd hate to waste $130 on a piece I don't need.
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:10 AM
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NJ3
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It's not required, you will need a harness and resistor though. I installed one when I replace my HU and it was more trouble than it was worth and I still had to buy additional stuff to make it work.
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:13 AM
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NJ3
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Here is a how to in this section that will work with most aftermarket HU's. ==> https://mustangforums.com/forum/audi...onstopred.html
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:17 AM
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kgrun4
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FYI if you live near an Ultimate Electronics store, they are going out of business and I got my PAC C2R-FRD1 for $50, normally $130 i believe.
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:30 AM
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allinon72
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NO it is not needed, as long as you are willing to splice in a 12v regulator into a cheap Metra harness.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:18 PM
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mark_byers39
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I appreciate all the feedback. I noticed the resistor seems to be for only keeping the popping down when you first power up the system, is that right?
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:55 PM
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wayne613
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Originally Posted by mark_byers39
I appreciate all the feedback. I noticed the resistor seems to be for only keeping the popping down when you first power up the system, is that right?
Sorta, yeah. It pops as the factory amps use 5v for their turn-on, an after-market unit only gives a 12v remote turn-on line. So you either drop the voltage down to @ or near 5v by a 1k-1.5k ohm resistor, or a 5v regulator which uses a 12v input to give a regulated 5v output.

You can technically get away with just using the straight 12v to power ém, but that pop is a symptom, and even that symptom, over time, can cause damage to the speakers themselves. In addition to the additional strain on the cheese factory amps from the improper turn-on voltage, which at the least will generate quite a bit more heat.

Last edited by wayne613; 03-03-2011 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:01 AM
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mark_byers39
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Originally Posted by wayne613
Sorta, yeah. It pops as the factory amps use 5v for their turn-on, an after-market unit only gives a 12v remote turn-on line. So you either drop the voltage down to @ or near 5v by a 1k-1.5k ohm resistor, or a 5v regulator which uses a 12v input to give a regulated 5v output.

You can technically get away with just using the straight 12v to power ém, but that pop is a symptom, and even that symptom, over time, can cause damage to the speakers themselves. In addition to the additional strain on the cheese factory amps from the improper turn-on voltage, which at the least will generate quite a bit more heat.
I appreciate that info. I normally do all my own work on my car but i may just end up taking it to someone and having it professionally done, though the idea of tackling this definitely intrigues me Thanks for all the input again guys, I really appreciate it. These forums definitely are nice to have, everyone is quick to give friendly feedback.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:03 PM
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wayne613
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Originally Posted by mark_byers39
I appreciate that info. I normally do all my own work on my car but i may just end up taking it to someone and having it professionally done, though the idea of tackling this definitely intrigues me Thanks for all the input again guys, I really appreciate it. These forums definitely are nice to have, everyone is quick to give friendly feedback.
If you've done any simple electronic soldering work in the past it really isn't very hard.
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