saltydog7seas

Let me start this out by saying that what I know about stereo systems in cars is extremely limited so I am heavily counting on the advice of others in this area. I have a '05 GT vert. with the shaker 500. I listen to mostly rock and country.

I had a pair of Sony Xplode 5x7 speakers sitting around so I swapped the factory door 6x8s. I believe the Xplod's are PN Sony XS5726 (2 way, 40w nominal RMS, 4ohm). I didn't notice much difference but it is a little better. Everything else is stock.

I will be replacing the head unit with an aftermarket and adding/replacing a set of speakers.

I really don't like the factory head unit because I depend on my iPod for music to reduce clutter in my car.
Must have's in the new head unit are: Double din, Must be able to charge iPod somehow and control it through the head unit, good quality (I don't want one that has glitches, was released to market too soon, breaks easily, etc.).
Want to haves in the new unit (By order of importance): voice controlled iPod, satellite radio, Navigation, DVD.

I have looked at the Pioneer avics but I think to add everything that I would like it seems to be out of my price range. I would like the new unit in the car with accesories for under $600. If people recommend one of the avics I can try and wait to get a good deal on it (ebay, refurbished, floor model, etc.)I am mechanically inclined so I hope to be able to install it myself. I will however be limited in the eletrical install area so please nothing that's too complicated. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Also, as far as speakers go I have a 480w 2 channel Sony Xplod amp. What would be the cheapest way to use it to make the best sound? Should I buy two good 6x8's (maybe some New Infinity KAPPA 682.9CF 6x8's?) for the back and use it to power those? Should I wire it to a sub box in the trunk; if so, one or two subs? brands? etc. . .

I've tried installing stereos by myself in previous cars and just wound up screwing it up. I'm really hoping I can do it right this time with all of your help. Thank you everyone in advance.

Lem-06

I bought the pioneer 4300. is very nice, buy the extended ipod cable for it and route it through to the center console. charges and plays through ipod/iphone, pandora integration if its phone/your in wifi

DirtFarmer

Crutchfield is your friend. They have a PAC adapter (150$ new, 70$ if you buy the HU thru them) that lets you use the factory amp with new head units. Otherwise its going to be a tough install to try and use the factory amp. Plus the factory amp works at wierd ohms so thats why your after market speakers dont sound better. they're underpowered.

I haven't done my install yet, but I've scoured the interwebs looking at how to set up an Ipod to shaker 500. Some people use adapters and some people hard wire an adapter into the system. Ive read mixed reviews on both types if installation and neither tend to work perfectly. Nor will they give you what your looking for.

My reccomendation is go with a complete new system. It wont be cheap nor easy but trying to intergrate half a system to the shaker system seems like a pain in the ***. Also, I'd reccomend going with Alpine or Kenwood for the Head unit. From all the research i've done Pioneer is going downhill with quality and brands like sony are lower in sound qualtiy. Alpine and Kenwood are both highly reccomended.

Kicker makes Shelby 8" subs that are an easy replacement for the door, other than that you'll need a custom install due to the mounting depth and box size in the door.

Good luck, i wish I could tell you that there was an easy fix but the Shaler 500 is not meant to work well with other componets. It can all be done of course, it just isn't easy.

lawrencecar1

i went with sony HU single din (used cubby filler) and the pac unit. Works like oem.

saltydog7seas

From what I've heard (and I very well could be wrong) the factory door 5x7's don't have an amp going to them so that's why I swapped them out. I believe the door sub does and I'm ok with the way it sounds so I think I'll leave it. I have heard that the back 5x7s are power by amps that filter out the highs and only allow bass through. So I was wondering really if it would be better to replace the rear 5x7s and bypass their amp with mine or to run that amp back or a sub box in the trunk?

Single dins definitely win in the price war but I'm not a fan of having to add the cubby. Plus I still hoping to try to find a good HU with nav in my price range. I had searched reviews on the pioneer avic and the one concern I had was all of the issues I was hearing (software glitches, freezing, etc.). This is the HU that I found that met everything I wanted but I am really skeptical after the reviews. Plus I'm not sure if anything comes with it. I know I would have to buy the iPod cable, xm reciever and the dvd adaptor but what about the nav system or mic? Do they come with it ready to use? If Kenwood has one similar I might be interested.

saltydog7seas

Also, unfortunately I am stuck with a Blackberry.

DirtFarmer

http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...-500-a-450312/

Check out this thread. It shows the schematics for the system. the door speakers are connected to amp, unless Im reading it wrong.

my rear speakers play more than just bass frequiences. ive heard that they dont from others so maybe its just my year, I have an 05 shaker 500.

saltydog7seas

Well, I have to prefeace by saying that I am horrible at reading schematics, but in the first diagram I don't see and amps running to either the front or back speakers. I see and amp going to each of the door subs. Again, I could be completely wrong.

wayne613

Wrong.

Door 8' inch "subs"(1 in each door on the lower part of the panel) are connected. That's it for the "faker 500". The 4 speakers (2 in doors, 2 in rear) are using the head-unit for amplification.

Btw, stickied moderator threads are there for a reason. A PAC unit really is not necessary in most cases with an 05-06 mustang, since it it is not being CAN-BUS controlled power wise. The PAC and similar units are more for keeping the speed (VSS), reverse, and e-brake outputs at hand easily; for the units that might need it (in addition to providing the dropped to 5v remote outs, which can easily be done via a 5v regulator or a 1k ohm resistor wired in series to the faker 500's factory amp turn-on to drop the turn-on voltage to 5v).

saltydog7seas

I'm surprised no one else has any opinions on this.