I wanna rip a burn out SO BAD
#22
All you need is a few heat cycles to make sure the gear facing meets correctly while hot and soft. After that, go to town. I usually get about 1-2 heat cycles in and ask the customer to give me one more on the way home, let it cool and beat it up the next day.
#23
Call it an unwillingness to risk having to do the exact same mod all over again just to end up in the same place.
Norm
#26
The gears weren't sharp due to lack of break in, they were either soft metal or overheated from a poor setup which softened them.
#27
If you beat on them from the get-go and don't let them cool, I'll bet that you could overheat them at least locally. Don't forget that heat causes thermal expansion, which could close up the backlash and reduce the amount of lube that gets in between the teeth in mesh.
Norm
Norm
#28
i know this is frowned upon but im bringing this old thread back up...i want to change the oil soon as my break in time is almost over. being a full time student i dont get to take the car out that much...i wish i had thought to install a drain plug while building the rear. its all painted up and put together perfectly and it'd be a real pain to tear it apart to change the oil out. i can fit a syphon in the fill hole and it will make it down to the bottom to pull out the oil? i thought the 3rd member would get in its way...also does anyone know where i can find a magnetic fill plug? ive been looking for one to put in to catch any excess metal shavings. thanks everyone
#30
aspiration of fluid bolus? lol that sounds a little fancy im not sure what exactly that means haha...do you think using a syphon will get the metal fragments out? im ordering a magnetic fill plug to catch any excess fragments that might be missed. or am i better off just pulling the entire rear apart again and cleaning it out?