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I wanna rip a burn out SO BAD

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Old 10-01-2011, 03:22 PM
  #21  
Coupe
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I mashed on mine on day one. I drove it about 10 miles to listen to it, let it cool and then took another trip and let'er rip. I figure thats more than it got the first time around.
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Old 10-01-2011, 04:15 PM
  #22  
cprstreetmachines
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All you need is a few heat cycles to make sure the gear facing meets correctly while hot and soft. After that, go to town. I usually get about 1-2 heat cycles in and ask the customer to give me one more on the way home, let it cool and beat it up the next day.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:38 AM
  #23  
Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by chris66dad
I wimped and followed the builders advice for break in of the pumpkin.
Following a conservative break in schedule is not "wimping", unless that's what you'd call an unwillingness to gamble.

Call it an unwillingness to risk having to do the exact same mod all over again just to end up in the same place.


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Old 10-02-2011, 02:33 PM
  #24  
lefty3382
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I ripped my new rear from the first mile, that was 5000 miles ago. No problems yet, but time will tell...
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:28 PM
  #25  
urban_cowboy
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I took a ring gear out last month that a guy did not break in. The gear teeth were sharpened like razors and was obviously completely worn out. Let it break in!
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:22 AM
  #26  
KMatch
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Originally Posted by urban_cowboy
I took a ring gear out last month that a guy did not break in. The gear teeth were sharpened like razors and was obviously completely worn out. Let it break in!
The gears weren't sharp due to lack of break in, they were either soft metal or overheated from a poor setup which softened them.
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:54 PM
  #27  
Norm Peterson
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If you beat on them from the get-go and don't let them cool, I'll bet that you could overheat them at least locally. Don't forget that heat causes thermal expansion, which could close up the backlash and reduce the amount of lube that gets in between the teeth in mesh.


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Old 11-06-2011, 09:27 PM
  #28  
built67
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i know this is frowned upon but im bringing this old thread back up...i want to change the oil soon as my break in time is almost over. being a full time student i dont get to take the car out that much...i wish i had thought to install a drain plug while building the rear. its all painted up and put together perfectly and it'd be a real pain to tear it apart to change the oil out. i can fit a syphon in the fill hole and it will make it down to the bottom to pull out the oil? i thought the 3rd member would get in its way...also does anyone know where i can find a magnetic fill plug? ive been looking for one to put in to catch any excess metal shavings. thanks everyone
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:38 PM
  #29  
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When I did mine I used a 20ml syringe and began aspiration of fluid bolus. It didn't take too long. Make sure to use a soft tube that will reach the bottom.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:55 PM
  #30  
built67
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aspiration of fluid bolus? lol that sounds a little fancy im not sure what exactly that means haha...do you think using a syphon will get the metal fragments out? im ordering a magnetic fill plug to catch any excess fragments that might be missed. or am i better off just pulling the entire rear apart again and cleaning it out?
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