Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

some progress today

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Old 12-12-2007, 06:49 PM
  #11  
Daze
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Default RE: some progress today

its not hard at all with an oil pressure gage. I made mine with a hydraulic gage from an industrial supply place some hydraulic line and some fittings. Napa also sells one for around $100.00 a shop would charge you at least $50.00 I am guessing especially sense it is in a Mustang.
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:10 PM
  #12  
eZ
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Default RE: some progress today

thank you for your help Daze.
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:01 PM
  #13  
Daze
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no problem glad I could help
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:06 PM
  #14  
JMD
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Default RE: some progress today

Yep, I smoked a 700R4 which uses a similar setup in about 2 seconds at WOT......


My son was pissed.... we had just put his cam in and we were on a test drive... should have checked that out a lottle closer... and I knew it. Some of us never learn...
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:46 AM
  #15  
onegreedy
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Default RE: some progress today

what controls the shift points on an aode from a 99 mustang?

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Old 12-13-2007, 02:12 AM
  #16  
rmodel65
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Default RE: some progress today

ORIGINAL: onegreedy

what controls the shift points on an aode from a 99 mustang?


its electronic its and aod(electronic)

yeah most assume that the tv cable is a kick down and as stated above its not its all about line pressure on those, i played with mine a little when i had one in my 91 i raised the shift points a little higher, and firmed them up honestly EZ post this up in the 5.0 section for more good info
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Old 12-13-2007, 09:19 AM
  #17  
eZ
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Default RE: some progress today

ill try that but i think ill take to a tranny place that way im not stressin blowin up my tranny. maybe install a shift kit too.
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:58 AM
  #18  
Starfury
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Default RE: some progress today

One thing to consider... Some tachs need a full 12V feed to get a proper reading. I found this out after installing one into my clock hole in my 67. The factory ignition wiring only supplies ~6V to the coil, so you'd need to bypass the stock ignition resistor wire for proper functionality. Assuming, anyway, that you're pulling the signal from the coil terminal. If you're still running points, you'd have to splice into the resistor wire really close to the ignition switch to get a 12V signal.

What I'd do is have your favorite shop hook up a timing light with a tach, which will pull the tach feed from an ignition wire rather than the coil. You can compare this tach reading with the one on your column to make sure it's accurate.
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