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Ram Air

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Old 08-15-2008, 10:57 PM
  #11  
Tony R
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I like Wafles idea. I think you could make a nice ram air setup that would be hard to see if done right. If you have a R-model front valance you could mount it in there as well.
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Old 08-15-2008, 11:16 PM
  #12  
67mustang302
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The real purpose of ram air is to get cold air, ramming has little to no effect until you get up to around 120mph. If you run ducting through the engine compartment it will just absorb heat and not be as effective. If you're looking for performance then use either an actual scoop or a reverse cowl hood and seal the carb off with a heat reflective metal.
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Old 08-16-2008, 04:11 AM
  #13  
greystallion66
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I was just looking into the same thing. you can go to spectreperformance.com or as mentioned above ramairbox.com. My thoughts were to place the battery in the trunk then cut 2 4" holes in the radiator support and run the ducting to that.
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Old 08-16-2008, 04:13 AM
  #14  
greystallion66
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maybe this is a retarded question, but what is a reverse cowl hood that everyone has been mentioning? Do you guys mean the gt 350 hood?
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:33 AM
  #15  
67 evil eleanor
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I think the front valance would be a great place to pick up from. The Ram-Air does work and on the Shelby GT500KR it did trim the quater time down some. And it looks cool. Keep in mind that the best place to pick up the air is in the center of the cross section of the front. Mounting the ducts toward the outside is not near as effective as in the middle. Valance, couple of hoses, and another snorkel type thing and wala, you've got it.
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:09 AM
  #16  
67mustang302
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A reverse cowl hood is like a giant 2' wide shark fin in the hood that has a square opening at it's back just in front of the windshield. The air pressing against the windshield from the aerodynamics moves down into the back of the cowl and into the carb.

They're usually belended with the front of the hood and slope to about 3" high at the back.
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:11 AM
  #17  
JapanGT
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Originally Posted by 67mustang302
The real purpose of ram air is to get cold air, ramming has little to no effect until you get up to around 120mph. If you run ducting through the engine compartment it will just absorb heat and not be as effective. If you're looking for performance then use either an actual scoop or a reverse cowl hood and seal the carb off with a heat reflective metal.
The purpose of a cold air intake is usually "cold air." The purpose of a ram air system is
guess what, um, "ram air," usually with the side benefit of cold air.

What most people forget is that at 70mph the air is not standing still, so the air
pickup may not be at athmoshperic pressure but less than athmospherir pressure.
So the effect of ram air can be the effect of any positive pressure and the cancelling
any negative pressure.

As an example. I had a Suzuki TL1000S and with my ram air mods, on the highway it would
pick up the front wheel in 2nd at about 100km/hr ( no clutching just power), getting the bike to it's balance point where I could ride it through a few gears on one wheel.
As an experiment I removed the rubber corners so the air box was picking up air from under the seat but no ram air effect. No matter how hard I tried it would not wheelie on power alone in 2nd gear, like it would with the ram air connected. The air pickup was away from the engine and there was no effect from air temp changes. What was changing, was that without the ram air it was pulling air that was moving away from the air box, which was causing a negative air pressure at speeds as low as 100km/hr. With the ram air connected there was a very slight positive pressure ( measure by the voltages from the sensor in the air box ). Even at 100km/hr (62mph) ram air can have an effect if the ram air system is
designed correctly.

Jav
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:18 AM
  #18  
greystallion66
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Thanks 67mustang302.
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:36 PM
  #19  
67mustang302
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Ram Air systems on bikes are HIGHLY developed from thousands of hours of track testing and dyno testing until they develop an opening and plenum shape that provides the best pressure increase. You won't see something nearly as effective on a car. It requires special instrumentation to test for turbulence and pressure variations across different parts of the ram's plenum, instrumentation that no one but the manufacturers have in testing labs. It also requires extensive wind tunnel testing to find the right size, shape and placement of the ram's opening. That's why they're so effective on bikes, the designers take the time to do that.

When sticking a ram air in a car as an aftermarket setup, testing shows gains of only about 2% over 100mph, and around 4% by 150mph, with 1% or less gains at speeds under 100mph. I'm not knocking ram air, but on pretty much every car production or otherwise it hasn't truly been a "ram" air. That's just a name like "Hemi." It does allow cold air in, which is denser so more power is made.

A hood scoop(I have one myself, with a sealed air cleaner from the engine compartment) will make extra power from cooler air, but the ramming will have little effect on power under 100mph. I picked up an immediate 1.5mph at the strip just by putting on a scoop and sealing it off, instead of huffing hot engine compartment air. Reverse cowl hoods work the same way, but rather than "scooping" the air the draw in higher pressure air that's dammed up in front of the windshield. Either one works the same. I've seen several tests where CAI, ram air and reverse cowls were all tested vs a stock setup, and they all produced the same power and track times.

As far as a cowl or hood scoop, either works well and is relatively easy to seal off from the engine compartment for cheap.
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:37 AM
  #20  
67 evil eleanor
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This works. As proven in 68.
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