need help with engine kits
#1
need help with engine kits
back again with my 289, im rebuilding the 289 back mostly stock for my senior project and i have got my hands on a 302 to go buck wild on at my own pace and salary which will go into my M2, but the question im looking for help came up when i was looking at engine rebuild kits on summit for the 289, ive decided to use the stock crank and grind it down a lil to resurface it...
So im wondering what size grinding is common just to renew a crank? and how will the bearings work for rods and main journals, will i need new rods? or can i get bearings that will close the gap for the slightly smaller crank? as far as i can tell the crank is fine, came out of a 65 fairlane's 289 thats been in a mustang2 since mid 80s and ran fine until oil pump locked down
any help will be appreciated finally got a pretty penny saved to get the engine started but got to know my bearing sizes and how grinding a crank works before i can get the new rebuild kit
So im wondering what size grinding is common just to renew a crank? and how will the bearings work for rods and main journals, will i need new rods? or can i get bearings that will close the gap for the slightly smaller crank? as far as i can tell the crank is fine, came out of a 65 fairlane's 289 thats been in a mustang2 since mid 80s and ran fine until oil pump locked down
any help will be appreciated finally got a pretty penny saved to get the engine started but got to know my bearing sizes and how grinding a crank works before i can get the new rebuild kit
#2
the machine shop will tell you if your crank will clean up at .010 or .020, then you just buy .010 or .020 oversized bearings.
you will not need new rods, however any full rebuild should have the rods reconditioned and for gods sake use some ARP bolts in there. the machine shop will fit the rods for the better bolts while they recondition them. if your building a mild motor you can use the "regular" ARP wave-loc bolts that are like 35.00 a set, if your building a monster then you should coin up the extra cash and get the better wave-loc bolts that run about 100 bucks a set.
look at sealed power hyper flattops with the coated skirts for piston selection, it'll put you around 9.5:1 with your 289 heads which will work great for pump gas. they are probably the best "bang for the buck" pistons available for the 289/302 (same piston) and are around 100 bucks for the set.
lastly, spend the 20.00 on an ARP oil pump driveshaft. along with the better rod bolts its some of the best money you could ever spend on your motor.
you will not need new rods, however any full rebuild should have the rods reconditioned and for gods sake use some ARP bolts in there. the machine shop will fit the rods for the better bolts while they recondition them. if your building a mild motor you can use the "regular" ARP wave-loc bolts that are like 35.00 a set, if your building a monster then you should coin up the extra cash and get the better wave-loc bolts that run about 100 bucks a set.
look at sealed power hyper flattops with the coated skirts for piston selection, it'll put you around 9.5:1 with your 289 heads which will work great for pump gas. they are probably the best "bang for the buck" pistons available for the 289/302 (same piston) and are around 100 bucks for the set.
lastly, spend the 20.00 on an ARP oil pump driveshaft. along with the better rod bolts its some of the best money you could ever spend on your motor.
#3
so basically just take everything to the machine shop and all will be good, got ya
this motor is going back greatly stock, bored .030 over, forged pistons, ported and polished heads, altho it is getting a larger then stock cam and intake. weiand stealth intake, holly 670 4 barrel (i MAY go smaller cfm havent decided), and a lunati cam with a .522 intake .538 exhaust lift, not going for crazy performance but decent parts....
dont worry my77stang this isnt going in my mustang 2, this is going in my 81 thunderbird and im getting the 302 out of it, blowing it up and so far according to desktop dyno ive got 600 horsepower to the fly with 500 ft lb of torque. im prob going for a straight 1/8 mile runner and adding a 4.10 gear with the largest tires i can fit in my m2 wheel wells... which wont be that big. going for a 3000 stall on a C-4 automatic, strip out my interior all but a brand new carpet and 2 bucket seats, fabricate my own dash with all brand new gauges and ill bring back the Mustang 2 in the upstate of south carolina, one camaro at a time
this motor is going back greatly stock, bored .030 over, forged pistons, ported and polished heads, altho it is getting a larger then stock cam and intake. weiand stealth intake, holly 670 4 barrel (i MAY go smaller cfm havent decided), and a lunati cam with a .522 intake .538 exhaust lift, not going for crazy performance but decent parts....
dont worry my77stang this isnt going in my mustang 2, this is going in my 81 thunderbird and im getting the 302 out of it, blowing it up and so far according to desktop dyno ive got 600 horsepower to the fly with 500 ft lb of torque. im prob going for a straight 1/8 mile runner and adding a 4.10 gear with the largest tires i can fit in my m2 wheel wells... which wont be that big. going for a 3000 stall on a C-4 automatic, strip out my interior all but a brand new carpet and 2 bucket seats, fabricate my own dash with all brand new gauges and ill bring back the Mustang 2 in the upstate of south carolina, one camaro at a time
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