pinion angle or driveline?
#11
do I have to check pinion angle with the car sitting naturally or can I have it on ramps?
My neighbor let me barrow a pretty good angle finder. where do I actually place it to get reliable readings?
this angle finder has about a 3.5" face with the magnetic base.
Thanks
-Gun
My neighbor let me barrow a pretty good angle finder. where do I actually place it to get reliable readings?
this angle finder has about a 3.5" face with the magnetic base.
Thanks
-Gun
#12
I had a similiar problem and it turned out to be the drive shaft was a little too short.
If your pinion angle is within specs you might want to ask your driveshaft people what the corrcet lenght should be. You will have to give them measurements. Does the t5 take the exact lenght shaft as the auto?
If your pinion angle is within specs you might want to ask your driveshaft people what the corrcet lenght should be. You will have to give them measurements. Does the t5 take the exact lenght shaft as the auto?
#13
On a loaded suspension, just like when it drive. Can be up in the air, but car needs the suspension loaded, or it will throw everything off. Cruzzar makes a good point alos. I usualy look for one of my thumb widths, or about .750 in out.
I'll find you a link, be right back
I'll find you a link, be right back
#14
Here ya go. Easier and less confusing I think to read, than explain.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5731098-post34.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5731098-post34.html
#15
I had a picture of the TS/DS gap I showed it on here before and no one said it looked too wide.
When using the stock length DS there was zero play it fully butted up against the trans when installing it..SO maybe 1/4" play just enough to get the u joint bearings in the cup on the rear end.
The DS was shortened 1" to allow for play.
-Gun
When using the stock length DS there was zero play it fully butted up against the trans when installing it..SO maybe 1/4" play just enough to get the u joint bearings in the cup on the rear end.
The DS was shortened 1" to allow for play.
-Gun
#16
The angle is the relationship between the tranny, driveshaft and rearend. The car doesn't have to be perfectly level, but it must be at ride height with the suspension loaded. I check the tranny on the pan, drive shaft on the shaft (must be as parallel to the shaft and as close to "south" as possible), and the rear on the bottom of the case. The tranny and the rear can seem fine (within a degree or two), but if they are so far out of the same plane that the ds angle is over 5 or 6 degrees you will see harmonics at higher ds speeds.
I have two questions for you: Did you install the pilot bearing when you swapped out the flexplate for the flywheel and is it the right size for the T5 snout? Are you using lowered motor frame mounts?
I have two questions for you: Did you install the pilot bearing when you swapped out the flexplate for the flywheel and is it the right size for the T5 snout? Are you using lowered motor frame mounts?
#19
Thanks for the help Scott.
I have that same Robart incidence meter. The issue I have is trying to get it to sit level and read it at the same time without wiggling the needle. Its wet and not warm outside right now and I spent the last week playing t5 rebuild under the car for part of it naturally. I dont really have any angle meters that are good to 1/4* (I dont have my robart one with me at this location.)
What do you think it cost to have someone check it for me? Can a shop actually do this accurately enough or is this job better done at home?
It really needs to be 1/4* accuracy???
-Gun
I have that same Robart incidence meter. The issue I have is trying to get it to sit level and read it at the same time without wiggling the needle. Its wet and not warm outside right now and I spent the last week playing t5 rebuild under the car for part of it naturally. I dont really have any angle meters that are good to 1/4* (I dont have my robart one with me at this location.)
What do you think it cost to have someone check it for me? Can a shop actually do this accurately enough or is this job better done at home?
It really needs to be 1/4* accuracy???
-Gun