Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

T56 install in a 68.

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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 12:40 AM
  #31  
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I almost forgot to mention that you will need a 72" speedo cable. I used one from a 90 Mustang with cruise control. For some reason the end of the speedo that goes in the tranny was a little larger than the hole in the VSS sensor. It is very close so tomorrow I will take the dremel to it and sand it down to fit. When that is done the car is ready for a test drive, when the weather cooperates that is.
Old Dec 8, 2008 | 06:53 PM
  #32  
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The TKO shifters don't come with stops because the trans itself has non adjustable positive stops built in from the factory. The T56's don't(thought they may be doing that on some of the newer T56's on Corvettes and Shelby's etc). TREMEC states in the install list that if you do use an adjustable stop aftermarket shifter, to remove the stops entirely. I'd be willing to bet a lot of people's complaints about shifting TKO's is from them engaging stops on aftermarket shifters before the fork has totally engaged the gears.

The shifter it comes with is awesome though. Short throw and it's designed to automatically move towards the next gear up. If you maintain constant pressure on the stick as you shift, when you go from 1-2 it automatically goes into 2, and from 2-3 automatically goes into 3. You don't need to move the shifter left or right like with a typical h pattern, just straight pushing and pulling. I tried speed shifting into 3rd with a slight move to the right(like normal), and missed by binding between 3rd and 5th, and even once grabbed 5th instead. By just shoving it straight up towards 3rd(pushing in a straight diagonal line, or even almost straight forward) it goes right into 3rd like butter.

If the T56's have a stock shifter like the stock 5.0's I'd trashcan it too and get a better one.

How's your overdrive? The .64 5th in my TKO seems to be rather loud, but the engine runs at low rpm. I'm still using the 3.00 gear, hopefully have my 3.55's in next week, but on the I5 at 80mph it's turning like 1,900rpm.
Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:21 PM
  #33  
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I haven't driven the car yet. I have been chasing down speedo cable problems for the past week. I think I have it now. I am about to go to the garage and make some adjustments to the cable with my dremel. The next issue is having a day that is nice enough that I can take the car out. I'll give a full report about driveablility and any problems I may encounter once I get some miles on it.
Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:48 PM
  #34  
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Man we're slipping. Glad to hear it went fairly easy Darreld. What are you getting the angle from? 3.5 deg compared to.... ?
Fakesnakes had a good link, this is the complete link. GOOOOOD info in it.
http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf
Long story short is the 3 deg is in the total bend of the u-joint. Not the deg the tailshaft or pinion is pointed down. Changing the ride height can change the angles. It won't change the angles in relation to the direction it's pointing, but the amount of angle compared to the driveshaft.
So if you raise a vehicle, the rear end will come out of the chassis, and put that driveshaft in more of a bind. so even if the angles are parallel and equal, the compounded angle at the driveshaft is not great. Hope it's not confusing. Just trying to help.
Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:49 PM
  #35  
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If I recall the T56's use carbon clutch cones, whereas the TKO's use a bronze blocker ring. I'm not sure how bad the T56 is, but my TKO was very notchy when I first drove it and didn't want to go into 2nd. If your shifting sucks at first don't be too worried. Now that my TKO has broken in it shifts really smoothly. A little notchy at times still, but it has less than 1,000mi on it so far. I've heard the newer T56's can be very notchy as well, so if it is don't worry too much, and give it some time. I found on mine it helped to try to engage a gear and slowly let out on the clutch if it won't go in. I had to do that to get it to grab 2nd, but it's been fine ever since then. I imagine the T56 shifts a lot smoother, given the design. Let us know all the details!!
Old Dec 9, 2008 | 12:53 AM
  #36  
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CPR thanks for the link. I took the angle from the top of the valve cover and put the yoke in the tranny to get a measurement from there. They both came out the same. If I need to do some fine adjustments that should be easier to do with the Gbar rear suspension. I think I will spend some more time looking at the angles not that the drive shaft is in. It looks like i have some more double checking to do before I feel comfortable. If I have problems I will post them and let you guys know.

67Mustang302 I hear that the T56 shifts more like a T5 than TKO's but I will report when I get it on the road.

I found out tonight that I need to hook up an electric reverse-lockout switch on the transmission. I noticed a plug on the drivers side by the shifter but didn't think much of it until a guy over on vintage Mustang asked about it. Evidently is stops you from going into reverse while the car is moving. I will have to pick up a plug from a Chevy dealer or on Ebay if I can't score it locally. I will wire the switch into my brake light switch. When the car is stopped and I press the brake it will go into reverse. If I don't put on the break it may go into reverse but from what I understand it is very difficult. Now I can understand why I had a hard time finding reverse after I installed the shifter. The littlt things we pick up as we do our projects.

Last edited by 68EFIvert; Dec 9, 2008 at 12:57 AM.
Old Dec 9, 2008 | 01:20 AM
  #37  
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I started to think about drive line angles and couldn't even think about going to bed so I double checked my measurements. I took a new piece of 60" brake line and put it down the center of the driveshaft. I then bent it at the center of the u-joint to match the angle of the yoke. I came out in the range of 3-4 degrees. I hope that is close enough but at least it gives me some peace of mind it is not way out of whack.
Old Dec 9, 2008 | 06:31 AM
  #38  
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That should be fine.
Old Dec 9, 2008 | 10:01 AM
  #39  
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3-5 total is fine. Spicer specifies the angle based on the u-joint you use.

You don't ABSOLUTELY need the R lockout. We don't usually put them in. With a little strong arm and knee pressure, you can push into R. You certainly won't be able to do it by accident.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #40  
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I have a brand new poly mount on my C4, does anyone know if I can use this on the T56? I'm at work or I'd go check it out! I only ask cause my buddy said he has a newer style mount from his tremec days that he'll trade me for the poly mount. He's now back to a C4, he enjoys his bracket racing!

BTW, it snowed today in Central Texas! Yesterday was almost 80 degrees here! Just think I drove the stang to work on Monday and today it snowing!



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