T56 install in a 68.
11-22-2008, 11:13 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Washington
Posts: 682
T56 install in a 68.
I have this posted on another forum so if you see it there sorry. I was contacted by a couple people here who wanted me to post my progress as I did the conversion. Enough with the disclaimer.
Well after 2 months of the transmission being on back order I finally received it today. I started pulling the old T5 out but to do so I had to pull the entire exhaust out including the headers. What a pain. I took the opportunity while the transmission was out to replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I am not sure which one was leaking but I did not want to take a chance so I replaced both of them.
While putting the flywheel back on I notices some hairline cracks. I assume this is not a good thing so it looks like a new flywheel is in my future. I hope I can pick one up locally. I think it would be wise to get an SFI approved one since I plan on running an aluminum bellhousing. I really want to see if the transmission will fit in the trans tunnel so this delay is pretty frustrating.
For motor mounts I am using Ron Morris 1/2" drop motor mounts. I am using a DVS Restorations adjustable transmission crossmember. I am a little concerned about clearance of the transmission to the tunnel. I have heard mixed comments about cutting the tunnel, not having to cut the tunnel and just trimming the tunnel brace. I am hoping to not get out the grinder but we'll see.
It appears that the shifters are located in the same location. I plan on replacing the factory supplied T56 shifter with a Steeda Tri-Axe shifter. I will do that tomorrow since it looks like I am at a roadblock until I can locate a flywheel. I will need to buy some new bolts that connect the bellhousing to the block. The bolts from my junkyard T5 are about 1/4" to short.
For a clutch I have a Fidanza 3.2 which has a kevlar friction material. It should hold up well with my hp levels and give me a nice pedal feel. To engage the clutch I already had a JMC hydraulic clutch. I was lucky enough to contact JMC about 2 weeks before they went bankrupt and purchase the bracket I needed to mount the slave cylinder on the T56. (Anyone looking for a slave cylinder bracket for a T5?)
Here are a couple pictures of the transmissions. I took a picture of a side view to see just how much higher the T56 transmission really is. It doesn't look like much but when clearance is at a minimum every little bit matters.
My flywheel.
Well after 2 months of the transmission being on back order I finally received it today. I started pulling the old T5 out but to do so I had to pull the entire exhaust out including the headers. What a pain. I took the opportunity while the transmission was out to replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I am not sure which one was leaking but I did not want to take a chance so I replaced both of them.
While putting the flywheel back on I notices some hairline cracks. I assume this is not a good thing so it looks like a new flywheel is in my future. I hope I can pick one up locally. I think it would be wise to get an SFI approved one since I plan on running an aluminum bellhousing. I really want to see if the transmission will fit in the trans tunnel so this delay is pretty frustrating.
For motor mounts I am using Ron Morris 1/2" drop motor mounts. I am using a DVS Restorations adjustable transmission crossmember. I am a little concerned about clearance of the transmission to the tunnel. I have heard mixed comments about cutting the tunnel, not having to cut the tunnel and just trimming the tunnel brace. I am hoping to not get out the grinder but we'll see.
It appears that the shifters are located in the same location. I plan on replacing the factory supplied T56 shifter with a Steeda Tri-Axe shifter. I will do that tomorrow since it looks like I am at a roadblock until I can locate a flywheel. I will need to buy some new bolts that connect the bellhousing to the block. The bolts from my junkyard T5 are about 1/4" to short.
For a clutch I have a Fidanza 3.2 which has a kevlar friction material. It should hold up well with my hp levels and give me a nice pedal feel. To engage the clutch I already had a JMC hydraulic clutch. I was lucky enough to contact JMC about 2 weeks before they went bankrupt and purchase the bracket I needed to mount the slave cylinder on the T56. (Anyone looking for a slave cylinder bracket for a T5?)
Here are a couple pictures of the transmissions. I took a picture of a side view to see just how much higher the T56 transmission really is. It doesn't look like much but when clearance is at a minimum every little bit matters.
My flywheel.
11-23-2008, 08:17 AM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Apison, TN
Posts: 971
Looks good man. Im pretty sure you will not have to cut the tunnel or modify it. Especially since you have the lower motor mounts and the adjustable cross member. By the way, your car is totally bad ***! You coming to the 45th anniversary mustangs across America run in April 2009?
11-23-2008, 09:39 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Washington
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Looks good man. Im pretty sure you will not have to cut the tunnel or modify it. Especially since you have the lower motor mounts and the adjustable cross member. By the way, your car is totally bad ***! You coming to the 45th anniversary mustangs across America run in April 2009?
I won't be going to Mustangs Across America. I live in the Northwest and it would be a to little far of a drive. If I were closer I would love to go.
Last edited by 68EFIvert; 11-23-2008 at 09:43 AM.
11-23-2008, 06:43 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,106
I am thinking that you will be OK. You can buy a magnetic angle finder for a few bucks and see where you stand. I have a TKO in a 68 that has seen 140+ without any issues. I still would shoot for 2.5* or less if possible. What kind of flywheel is that? Those heat related stress cracks are not good. Just curious.
11-23-2008, 08:53 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Washington
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I hope you are right Evil. Dave Sanbourn keeps giving me grief about it. I think he just wants to rattle my cage a little more than anything.
The flywheel is a stock 5.0 flywheel. I took it over to the speed shop today and they told me it was just fine and that I would be wasting my money. They have steered me well on a number of things so far so I am a bit torn. It will likely go back on there because I want to redo the shortblock at some time and will get another flywheel then. I think the new engine will be a 09'-10' winter project. I am out of "Mustang money" for now which is another factor in the decision. The other factor is I will never rev the engine past 5,500 because the rotating assembly and block are at the max.
Tony I likely will need a welder. I hope to put the tranny in there tomorrow or Tuesday night because the family is out of town. I finally have some time to work on the car and not feel guilty about it. I will join them on Wednesday night. If you have some time to help in the next day or so an extra set of hands would be greatly appreciated. I will make it up with beer/soda and pizza. If you decided to buy the tranny from me I will make it worth your time on that deal as well.
With any luck I will have the transmission in place very soon and, knock on wood, keep the trans tunnel in one piece.
The flywheel is a stock 5.0 flywheel. I took it over to the speed shop today and they told me it was just fine and that I would be wasting my money. They have steered me well on a number of things so far so I am a bit torn. It will likely go back on there because I want to redo the shortblock at some time and will get another flywheel then. I think the new engine will be a 09'-10' winter project. I am out of "Mustang money" for now which is another factor in the decision. The other factor is I will never rev the engine past 5,500 because the rotating assembly and block are at the max.
Tony I likely will need a welder. I hope to put the tranny in there tomorrow or Tuesday night because the family is out of town. I finally have some time to work on the car and not feel guilty about it. I will join them on Wednesday night. If you have some time to help in the next day or so an extra set of hands would be greatly appreciated. I will make it up with beer/soda and pizza. If you decided to buy the tranny from me I will make it worth your time on that deal as well.
With any luck I will have the transmission in place very soon and, knock on wood, keep the trans tunnel in one piece.
11-24-2008, 10:55 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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A huge thanks to TonyR! He came over tonight and helped me put the tranny in the car. We ended up having to fabricate a crossmember. I used the part of the DVS kit that bolts to the transmission and then had to build the rest. The exhaust is so tight we couldn't use the rest of the kit.
The only modification to the trans tunnel was trimming the shifter hole on the front. The Steeda Tri-Ax adjuster bolt and front housing would not clear. We took off about a 1/2" of metal.
It looks like the angle is about 3-3.5 degrees which is fine IIRC. I still have a lot of reassembly to do but I couldn't have done it nearly as fast without Tony's help.
The only modification to the trans tunnel was trimming the shifter hole on the front. The Steeda Tri-Ax adjuster bolt and front housing would not clear. We took off about a 1/2" of metal.
It looks like the angle is about 3-3.5 degrees which is fine IIRC. I still have a lot of reassembly to do but I couldn't have done it nearly as fast without Tony's help.