Need more power!!!
#1
Need more power!!!
I have a 66 convertible 289 auto trans. Everything is original as far as the motor goes and it is a dog. I have no plans on ever getting rid of this vehicle or showing it. I need more power and was wondering the best and most cost effective way to achieve this. My wife does not want to put a lot of money in it as we have a bunch of other projects going on. Any suggestions?
#2
Weiand or Edlebrock intake, good 4 barrel carb (4100 is great if that's what you have), headers and dual exhaust. Better cam.
But, if the engine is just plain worn out, the above may not help much. If it is truly an original engine (never rebuilt), your heads are likely in need of work since there is no lead in today's gasoline (or for the last 30 years) to cushion the valves. You'll need hardened valve seats. If you go that far, bearings and rings (probably need pistons and a bore too) are not that much more.
Open the can and the worms start coming out.
But, if the engine is just plain worn out, the above may not help much. If it is truly an original engine (never rebuilt), your heads are likely in need of work since there is no lead in today's gasoline (or for the last 30 years) to cushion the valves. You'll need hardened valve seats. If you go that far, bearings and rings (probably need pistons and a bore too) are not that much more.
Open the can and the worms start coming out.
#3
Cost effective? A crate motor, hands down. It may not be in your budget, but that's the best way to get to the end product is to skip all the small stuff in between.
After that, new gears. Stock rear end gears are usually pretty tall, and a new set of 3.50's will make more difference in seat-of-the-pants acceleration than almost anything else.
After that, new gears. Stock rear end gears are usually pretty tall, and a new set of 3.50's will make more difference in seat-of-the-pants acceleration than almost anything else.
#4
In random order:
Get distributor recurved to spec. The #1 killer of power is a poorly adjusted distributor.
4V intake, Performer Plus or Cobra.
500 cfm Edelbrock carb. 600 if you upgrade the cam.
Dual exhaust. Don't get crazy, 2" is actually enough.
289HP manifolds, Tri-Y's, or shorties. Manifolds are the easiest to install and live with.
If you want to upgrade the cam, use a C9OZ-C hydraulic HiPo or something like it.
Notice I didn't list a lot of 8mm wires, fancy ignition, etc. You don't need them. Pertronix I is fine if you feel you must get electronic ignition.
Get distributor recurved to spec. The #1 killer of power is a poorly adjusted distributor.
4V intake, Performer Plus or Cobra.
500 cfm Edelbrock carb. 600 if you upgrade the cam.
Dual exhaust. Don't get crazy, 2" is actually enough.
289HP manifolds, Tri-Y's, or shorties. Manifolds are the easiest to install and live with.
If you want to upgrade the cam, use a C9OZ-C hydraulic HiPo or something like it.
Notice I didn't list a lot of 8mm wires, fancy ignition, etc. You don't need them. Pertronix I is fine if you feel you must get electronic ignition.
#5
Mild cam and lifters. (Approx. $200)
Stock 4bbl manifold and Autolite 4100 carb (seen rebuilt carb and mani set ups on ebay for about $400) but you can prob do better if you get a crusty manifold and clean it yourself.
Tri Y Headers and dual exhaust (2 1/4, no bigger) Tri y's are about $150 and you can get an aluminized dual exhaust set up with turbo muffler for uner $200.
If distributor is in iffy condition, Autozone has rebuilts for $41. Get that and a pertronix swap and coil-about $125.
I would also consider swapping out the oil pump for a new unit with an ARP shaft. If the shaft breaks, there goes the engine. Won't ad any speed, but it is good and cheep insurance.
Before I would spend any money though, I would do a compression test on the engine and make sure the rings are at least in good shape. Also pop valve covers and check the valve train. If it is all gunked up under the covers or the compression test is poor, You are throwing away good money into an engine that prob won't last too long once you start getting on it. Otherwise, if all checks out decent, you can get a decent amount of pep for $100-1500.
Good luck.
Stock 4bbl manifold and Autolite 4100 carb (seen rebuilt carb and mani set ups on ebay for about $400) but you can prob do better if you get a crusty manifold and clean it yourself.
Tri Y Headers and dual exhaust (2 1/4, no bigger) Tri y's are about $150 and you can get an aluminized dual exhaust set up with turbo muffler for uner $200.
If distributor is in iffy condition, Autozone has rebuilts for $41. Get that and a pertronix swap and coil-about $125.
I would also consider swapping out the oil pump for a new unit with an ARP shaft. If the shaft breaks, there goes the engine. Won't ad any speed, but it is good and cheep insurance.
Before I would spend any money though, I would do a compression test on the engine and make sure the rings are at least in good shape. Also pop valve covers and check the valve train. If it is all gunked up under the covers or the compression test is poor, You are throwing away good money into an engine that prob won't last too long once you start getting on it. Otherwise, if all checks out decent, you can get a decent amount of pep for $100-1500.
Good luck.
#7
I like the Pertronix I, but the coil is a waste of time.
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