CyprusMustang

Hey guys Im freakin going nuts here, i answered one of my problems why my car ran a bit funny. the gap on the plug wasnt correct. the son of a B at the ngk store told me those were the correct ones and of course I believed him. They were totally off.

I ordered the correct plugs off the net and i put them on the car. When i first started the car it ran OK, no smells and not as much smoke.

Since its Fri night here, i figured to take her out for a spin since the wife and daughter both fell asleep. My bro was behind me in his chevelle and he told me during the first 10 min of our ride, not as much smoke as previous (with the old plugs) and didnt smell at all. After 45 min, it went to the way it was. Smokey and smelly. My shirt wreaks as we speak.

Ok here are some facts to try and figure out what the *** is going on. I jsut rebuilt top end, new valves, milled the heads, new gaskets etc... My compression on all pistons are 145ish, I have a perfect timing (checked it with the timing light) 14 adv and its dead on. new sparks with the correct plug gap, new wires etc... Im at my first 200 miles still on breaking it in so im not sure if that will contribute to the smoking. Its not a hell of alot of smoke but its not a little either.

I have a 600cfm edelbrock 4 bbl carb. When its in park, it idles perfectly, when i throw it into drive, its not as perfect as it is as park.

One more thing, here we have 95 and 98 unleaded octane. Last time i put in 98 by accident ( some ***** changed the nozzles on the pump). Not sure if the car can handle the extra octane.

ANY FREAKIN SUGGESTIONS?

CyprusMustang

im sitting here fanning my ***** doing nothing, anyone have a suggestion?

KMatch

Details needed. What color smoke? Black, white, gray, mist or cloud? What does it smell like? And who told you spark plugs had anything to do with it? Proper plugs are a must, but not normally smoke related. What kind of plugs? If NGK, not too terrible. If Bosch, take them out and smash them with a hammer then whack yourself in the nuts to save me a trip. How's it run now besides the smoke and smell?

2+2GT

Your carb is running rich.

High octane will do nothing to your engine. Bad for your wallet, though…

CyprusMustang

its white smoke but the plugs are dry when i checked, could be oil from the break in since newly fitted valves? but compression is ok so dont understand if the smoke is actually oil?

could white smoke appear if the car is running rich? also, the choke on the carb, i dont have electric, how is that regulated? when the car is running, is the flap supposed to be wide open? it seems as it does nothing when i give it gas, just remains open all the time?

the ngk plugs had a smaller gap and were shorter in length, i just put in the proper ford ones from mustangs ultd.

could the problem be the carb? can you get the carb to idle ok and timed ok if the flap is open totally? i just watched the tutorial that came with the carb and it seems as though the flap should be closed. not sure.

dodgestang

White smoke: water
Blue smoke: oil
grey smoke: too rich

You state 14 advance...it should be 14 initial and then advance up to 32-36 depending on the build and performance level. I'll assume it is a typo. It sounds to me like your carb is just dumping fuel down the old bowls to me. Check the floats and make sure they aren't stuck which would cause the bowls to just fill up and then leak fuel out the vent tubes into the intake.

The 'flap' is the choke. It is closed when the car is cold and once warm should be open all the way.

KMatch

White smoke isn't the carb unless you're running something other than gas in it. Make sure your coolant level is staying normal just to rule out any coolant issues which may be lost in interpertation <SP?>.

Getting down to brass tacks, your smoke is most likely oil. Let's pretend it is as I'm short on time at the moment. Valves and valve stem seals don't "break in". They work from the start, or they don't. Was this just a valve job or overhaul? Rings need to break in and can smoke until they do, but today's rings normally have a metal makeup requiring a short break in. I'm curious about the smell. Burning oil isn't pleasant, but to refer to it as "wreak"? Make sure you have a good quality oil in it. No snake oils or magic fixall formulas. Just some good stuff.

Does it smoke during steady cruising or on decel? Valve seals will show up more on decel, smoking during cruise points more to rings or ?. IF it's rings, have some fun with it. One way to, uh, help a break in is to drive the crap out of it. Accel WFO from a stop up to highway speed. Stop, repeat 8 or 10 times then cruise for a bit. See if that helps. Any difference noted points to rings taking a seat. I find it unusual to have to do this as it's old school, but it couldn't hurt.

dodgestang

wreaks really is kinda innocuous isn't it with regards to defining how your car smells

http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...e/2423551.html

Anyway...maple syrup...coolant in the exhaust
Rotten eggs....too much gas and since you don't have a cat all the odors come out

CyprusMustang

Ok here are some additional infos, i didnt need to change rings when i did the valves as the compression prior was 145 all around. they were done a year ago. I just removed heads had them milled changed gaskets valves and all the stem seals.

Now the car doesnt lose oil and doesnt lose water. both levels are the same. it smokes during idle, acceleration and deceleration. not as much when your driving at a constant speed. Before i changed the plugs, it used to smell badly like unburnt fuel, after changing the plugs, for the first 10 min it semmed to have cleared up. This is prob because the sparks were clean.

as for the fuel dumping out the carb, this does not happen. i have no vaccum leaks and no fuel leaks. the car accelerates nicely if i floor it (wheels even chirp) but if i accelerate slowly, i have a weak spot around 2-3000 rpm just for that initial second.

timing mark is on 14 and when the car is idling, its dead on 14 all the time. it idles beautifully but not so well in drive. ive heard better.

again, my compression is 145 all around so I dont think my rings are bad. my distributor is an HEI electronic one with no coil.the car does not overheat at all and cruises fine at higher speeds then lower.if im doing about 45 with constant foot on gas, it will not smoke as much. hardly anything actually.

plugs are new, leads are new, manifold and carb are new, dizzy is new all cables and tubes are new..... what could i test for?

dodgestang

If your coolant level is not dropping you have to be smoking grey, not white, which means you are not burning up all the fuel during combustion (you would be smoking rich blue if it was oil). Could be too much fuel, could be too little spark. So if you are getting weak spark...but I'm stretching now....you would want to put a new high power coil in and make sure it is not hooked up to the original pinkish coil resistor wire since that isn't a full 12v source.

What did you gap the plugs at?