lmarklar

Hey everyone,

Little background, 68 coupe, restomod (almost in progress ) planning on a 408w for the motor (first plan is to get the car running with the 351 i got, save and then build the motor right) Here is a list of parts I have

351w 94 roller motor all stock for now, fuel injected with custom computer
t56 transmission
dart pro 1 195cc
Ron morris motor mounts (so i dont have to butcher the tunnel anymore )
3 core alum rad
serpentine belt system

got the dart heads at a steal, they are bare and have "sunken exhaust" seats. My question is, with needing to have new seats put in already, would it be beneficial to port them out to bigger valves? the cost is 80 to put new seats in, and then 80 for the valve job for just exhaust. What are the pro's and con's to this?

And then what FI intake would be decent for a 90% street car? Was considering the trick flow r series 90mm, I know the power band is a bit high for street, but that is for a 351 isn't it? will going to a 408 lower the powerband and if so by how much?

Well thats enough rambling for now thanks for your time in advance!

urban_cowboy

By the 195s, do you mean the Pro1 heads? I know you say the heads are bare, but are they seated for 2.02/1.60 valves? That is probably sufficient for the intake runner size. If they were a little bigger, 2.08 intakes might be beneficial, but pretty much all of the bigger heads run a 1.60 exhaust valve. I say get the seats right and order a set of Ferrea SS 2.02/1.60 valves if that is what it is setup for.

cprstreetmachines

No need to go bigger. 1.60 will make lots of power.

67mustang302

The valve size and heads are plenty for a stockish 351W. Once it's a 408, depending on how it's built, it may be better off with a larger head like a 205, but I wouldn't port those heads on what you have now. Dart makes a really good head, and it's unlikely you could get it to perform any better on a street 351 by porting them...they'd prolly just produce less power. Replace the valves with 2.02/1.60(that's probably what it has now), use good parts(I like Beehive springs as well). A nice hyd roller cam and a good intake/exhaust and it'll make an easy 450hp with the right parts.

lmarklar

sweet deal, thanks for the input guys, I will leave em stock openings then and put good parts into em.

Now for my next question... Just received my t56 today, looking it over, the input shaft has a slight left hand twist to it, maybe 2-3 degrees?... does this mean what I think it does??? I will need to replace the shaft now? And the bellhousing that I have has a 9 o'clock shifter fork postion, and the t56 has another piece bolted to it that my bearings and whatnot seat to with a fork opening at app 11 o'clock? Am I missing something here?

alright thanks again for any assistance in advance.

cprstreetmachines

Yo mean the shifter handle will have the twist right ? That's normal. I think it's even closer to 5 deg. Makes it easier to shift with your elbow closer to your body.

lmarklar

I probably said that wrong... what I meant to say is:

My input shaft is twisted, if you look at the splines, at the base of the input shaft right before it goes into the transmission, the are slightly curved to the left. Did a little research, and apparently that is normal.... for a car putting out more than 400 ft/lbs that is about to break the shaft! Bad for me! crapola, guess its already time to fix the transmission... and I didn't even get to break it first!

So for a retro-fit into a 69 coupe, should I go with a hydraulic throw out bearing or just do an external mounted slave cylinder with clutch fork? With the transmissions clutch fork hole and the bellhousing clutch fork hole being in different positions is that going to affect anything? (i.e. whats the required amount of travel on the clutch fork? and can I adjust the fork to hit one hole or the other?)

Sorry for the barrage of questions again, I am trying to learn as I go here.