sixt5

dissapointed to be honest. had some HORRIBLE problems with the rear float sticking and literally POURING it into one of the venturis causing it to die at the end of the track and not start back up. anyways... finally got it goin.

last time at track:
15.5 wheel hopping BAD with a 2.78 open rear end. spin through all shifts.

today:
15.3 at 88mph i believe.

couldnt get traction for nothing. best 60 ft of 2.4. i had 255/35/17 KDW's lowered down (32,25,20,16) and no real change. i had a line lock and i burnt the suckers up. tractions bars kept the tires on the ground and felt nice.

new mods:
3.25 gear limited slip
traction bars
flame thrower coil (more spark)
new front suspension and back.



i think my stance is cauing weight not to be transfered to the rear tires. i was spinning bad at launch, spin shifting to second, and chirping third.

cmanf

Ahh that brings back some memories.
My 66 would bounce like a basketball everytime I hit the strip.Or did a burnout thought the back glass was going to fall out.

Get some Traction master bars they work dont waste time with the old school lakewood slappers.

Im not sure what power my car has now but sure its 500+ rw it has 5 leaf mideye and the traction masters. I know the 5 leaf is suposed to stop whell hop but I know for sure the traction masters do. Not 1 bounce now.

sixt5

im not having problems with wheel hop any more. i have weld in under rider bars and they keep it real smooth.



i still say its cause the weight isnt being put to the rear wheels

coolhnd9

Wow, she sure is beautiful! Looks really good with those wheels too. The stance looks great, if your having traction issue's, try a drag radial.

My buddy's parents have the same car sitting in there barn..... After seeing your pictures, I'm ready for another Mustang project!

67mustang302

Don't do a burn out on street tires. A quick spin to clean them is fine, but anything more than a few seconds and street compounds get greasy. Learn to go easy out of the hole too, street tires only have so much traction. Also if you're wheel hopping real bad then the traction bars aren't adjusted correctly, something is off...pinion angle, preload etc.

sixt5

guys, i dont have wheel hop, t-bars fixed that.

THUMPIN455

Your times arent too far off for your engine combination, its pretty mild and more gear wont really help you. Lighter wheels might get you into the high 14s along with some tuning, how much timing are you running and how fast does it come in? The edelbrock carbs are difficult to tune the secondary opening rate, but you might pick up a bit if they open a little faster, provided you dont bog. The nice thing about Holley carbs with vacuum secondaries is the ease of tuning the opening rate, its almost as easy as a Qjet if you have a quick change kit.

Another thing you can do is limit rolling resistance, true your rotors/drums, repack your wheel bearings, apply some graphite grease to your calipers so they slide easier, and also in the spots your brake shoes contact the backing plate. If you have drum brakes, back them down a bit so you cant feel the linings contacting the drum while you turn it with no wheel on. Where is your alignment set? Little things like that picked up half a second for one of the guys I used to race with, it makes a bigger difference on cars with less power so you might see a decent increase.

Weight reduction will make a larger impact on your car too since you are working with 218hp, you need it to move easily and have less mass to accelerate. Wheels, tires, brakes, interior, stereo, all that stuff adds up. Still low 15s for a mild 289 is pretty decent.

sixt5

hose dyno numbers are off by now. had head work done, new ignition, different exhaust, and trans swap (auto to stick). im thinkin i gained at least 20ish horse?

alignment and such are fresh as this car just got on the road from the major front end rebuild not to long ago.

THUMPIN455

Well a putting around in an old Falcon alignment is different from one that will allow a better ET and handling on the track. Before I did the alignment on my drag car it was all over the track, each gear shift would move it around and I had to work to keep it between the lines. It drove great on the street but under power it was a thrill ride like I was in strong cross winds.

I put 2.5 degrees caster in for high speed tracking, set the camber to zero with the front end raised two inches from static, and zero toe raised two inches from static. I could get 3 degrees caster on one side, but only 2.5 on the other so I made both sides the same. The stock alignment for a pre 1976 vehicle was designed to handle roads with a high crown, meaning the center of the road was a big hump so water wouldnt collect on it, and things were set differently for bias ply tires. Bias ply tires tend to follow ruts and tar strips so things were set up to compensate for that. With radial tires you dont have those problems so you can set your alignment with fewer compromises.

Finding a shop that can set it up to better specs will be difficult, most doing the work only know to set it to what the computer says is right, and that will be whatever the old dusty book said when the car was built.

sixt5

when i did the shelby drop, it was aligned to those specs, not factory