289 engine rebuild or replace.
10-02-2009, 07:43 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: florida
Posts: 183
289 engine rebuild or replace.
Hey Guys,
I need some advice. I bought a 66 mustang with a 289 v8 about two weeks ago. About 10 miles into the trip home from the big buy, I noticed the temp starting to climb. earlier I drove around the town with the seller and it didnt overheat. So I didnt know what was going on. The temp starting climbing slowly and surely. Right when I was getting off the highway the motor started knocking and stalled. I had to tow it home. The next day, I topped her off and ran the motor. I smelled coolant in the exhaust. And the knock was still there. I pulled the heads and sent it to the machine shop the valves were not bent. So I bought new push rods and lifters. The guy said no cracks and shaved .010 inches off the heads. Bought a new tstat, and radiator. Put it all together. And the motor runs and its not burning coolant, But the knock is there and seems to be getting worse. I have never heard of lower end damage from overheating, so I dont know what to think anymore. I am thinking of getting a crate engine. What route would you guys take? I dont know anyone with a 289 motor. Is that worth rebuilding, or swapping it out more logical for the long haul? What your input ? If rebuilding is worth it would you go stock or upgraded cam , pistons, ect?
Thanks guys!
I need some advice. I bought a 66 mustang with a 289 v8 about two weeks ago. About 10 miles into the trip home from the big buy, I noticed the temp starting to climb. earlier I drove around the town with the seller and it didnt overheat. So I didnt know what was going on. The temp starting climbing slowly and surely. Right when I was getting off the highway the motor started knocking and stalled. I had to tow it home. The next day, I topped her off and ran the motor. I smelled coolant in the exhaust. And the knock was still there. I pulled the heads and sent it to the machine shop the valves were not bent. So I bought new push rods and lifters. The guy said no cracks and shaved .010 inches off the heads. Bought a new tstat, and radiator. Put it all together. And the motor runs and its not burning coolant, But the knock is there and seems to be getting worse. I have never heard of lower end damage from overheating, so I dont know what to think anymore. I am thinking of getting a crate engine. What route would you guys take? I dont know anyone with a 289 motor. Is that worth rebuilding, or swapping it out more logical for the long haul? What your input ? If rebuilding is worth it would you go stock or upgraded cam , pistons, ect?
Thanks guys!
10-02-2009, 09:19 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
If you have the original engine, the car will always be worth more than with some other engine. Fix it if you can. "upgrade" is up to you. The 289 can be modified to produce enough power to get your wife to tell you to sell it.
10-03-2009, 04:13 AM
#3
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
i hardly ever see a car with original engine. so that's probably the first thiong i'd check. chances are good with yours. however i've seen an engine with crack in the bore, we checked heads and rad, put it together and the problem was still there. i gave him my old block (my heads were bad) and he was good to go again. just to say it could be the bottom end. fella drove off and overheated again as he snapped a fan belt. we told him to change it straight away as we didn't have one lying around ... anyway ... 2+2 is right with his 289 statement there ;-)
10-03-2009, 07:49 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Central PA
Posts: 224
All of this really depends upon what you want out of your car. If you're looking to keep it original or close to original, then you need to consider rebuilding, or at least getting a date correct short block for the car. (Matching #'s don't exist in a regular '66 Mustang, it all has to do with date codes).
If you don't care about originality, then it's up to you. Personally, I'm a huge fan of the 289 motor and would put one back in. As mentioned above, you can make a 289 pretty dang strong if you want. I've worked over our 289 with new heads, new cam, bored .040 over, new internals..etc and it's fairly quick. Almost keeps up with my '04 Mach.
If you're looking for something hot to run and really want a bigger motor, I'd go with a 347 stroker.
Kalli, your mods sound just about like mine, except I've got my motor mods based on a 289 block.
If you don't care about originality, then it's up to you. Personally, I'm a huge fan of the 289 motor and would put one back in. As mentioned above, you can make a 289 pretty dang strong if you want. I've worked over our 289 with new heads, new cam, bored .040 over, new internals..etc and it's fairly quick. Almost keeps up with my '04 Mach.
If you're looking for something hot to run and really want a bigger motor, I'd go with a 347 stroker.
Kalli, your mods sound just about like mine, except I've got my motor mods based on a 289 block.
Last edited by JDraper; 10-03-2009 at 07:52 AM.
10-03-2009, 11:28 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: florida
Posts: 183
All of this really depends upon what you want out of your car. If you're looking to keep it original or close to original, then you need to consider rebuilding, or at least getting a date correct short block for the car. (Matching #'s don't exist in a regular '66 Mustang, it all has to do with date codes).
If you don't care about originality, then it's up to you. Personally, I'm a huge fan of the 289 motor and would put one back in. As mentioned above, you can make a 289 pretty dang strong if you want. I've worked over our 289 with new heads, new cam, bored .040 over, new internals..etc and it's fairly quick. Almost keeps up with my '04 Mach.
If you're looking for something hot to run and really want a bigger motor, I'd go with a 347 stroker.
Kalli, your mods sound just about like mine, except I've got my motor mods based on a 289 block.
If you don't care about originality, then it's up to you. Personally, I'm a huge fan of the 289 motor and would put one back in. As mentioned above, you can make a 289 pretty dang strong if you want. I've worked over our 289 with new heads, new cam, bored .040 over, new internals..etc and it's fairly quick. Almost keeps up with my '04 Mach.
If you're looking for something hot to run and really want a bigger motor, I'd go with a 347 stroker.
Kalli, your mods sound just about like mine, except I've got my motor mods based on a 289 block.
The cars is actually my wifes. She really doesnt need a 7000 rpm motor or a 5mpg car either. I am actually trying to find the intersecting lines between effeciency , power , and longivity. Originallity is not a real concern for me but it would be nice.
Thanks for the help
10-03-2009, 12:15 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 516
You need to find out what's wrong first. If its still knocking then it's bound up on the lower end somewhere. Take it all apart and find the problem. This costs nothing more than the cost of gaskets to rebuild. Then, if the block is cracked do what you want as you can't keep the original block.
If it was burning coolant then its possible the coolant got in the oil, which then broke down and you siezed a rod bearing. Still, its a cheap fix. A new crank is what about $75 for a stock cast one? A full rebuild kit with all the bearings is another $150?? (Not sure, but still way cheaper than a crate replacement)
Why get rid of the whole engine when you don't even know what's wrong?
There isn't any big mystery to working or building your own engine. Anyone can do it with hand tools and a decent machine shop to do the parts you can't.
If it was burning coolant then its possible the coolant got in the oil, which then broke down and you siezed a rod bearing. Still, its a cheap fix. A new crank is what about $75 for a stock cast one? A full rebuild kit with all the bearings is another $150?? (Not sure, but still way cheaper than a crate replacement)
Why get rid of the whole engine when you don't even know what's wrong?
There isn't any big mystery to working or building your own engine. Anyone can do it with hand tools and a decent machine shop to do the parts you can't.
10-03-2009, 12:42 PM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
What is a date code? I was looking in summit racing's website. I see the have 347 short blocks for a little over 2k. Would the heads , intake from the 289 fall into place?
The cars is actually my wifes. She really doesnt need a 7000 rpm motor or a 5mpg car either. I am actually trying to find the intersecting lines between effeciency , power , and longivity. Originallity is not a real concern for me but it would be nice.
The cars is actually my wifes. She really doesnt need a 7000 rpm motor or a 5mpg car either. I am actually trying to find the intersecting lines between effeciency , power , and longivity. Originallity is not a real concern for me but it would be nice.
You sure don't need a 347 for a snappy driving car. A nice hydraulic cam an 600 cfm carb is all you need. Well, a number of small inexpensive details will help. You could even leave it looking stone stock. This car has a 289:
10-03-2009, 02:29 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Central PA
Posts: 224
Oh, and here's what a little mod work to a 289 will do. We have Edelbrock Performer heads, Edelbrock intake, cam, roller rockers, MAC long tubes, Holley 570 Street Avenger carb, Flowmasters with an H pipe, 3.55 gears and a T-5 in this car:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Un1qaa1ZhHI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Un1qaa1ZhHI