built67

JMD that would be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot! i know that my 67's trans tunnel is larger than a 66 so hopefully that will also help me out...so you did no cutting at all? you just lowed the rear of the trans less than an inch and it fit no problem?

67mustang302

Depends on the trans crossmember, and other variables. Every car is a bit different. I didn't mod mine at all, and need engine drop mounts to get the driveline angle correct. A big fat hammer to flatten the braced area in the tunnel would have helped.

tx65coupe

If your 351 makes 300 hp, I doubt its stock. Is it a Cleveland or Windsor?

Alot of people run T5s with more power than its rated for. It just depends how you drive the car. If your always hot rodding the hell out of it then the T5 probably won't last long, but if you drive normally with mild hot rodding then it will probably be ok.

If you get a built up T5 or T5 Z etc, it can take more than that.

2+2GT

None of the cars I've seen converted to T5 required cutting, so it is at least possible. Before cutting, I'd make sure the engine/trans was carefully centered and located. It is possible to do, if the shifter was hitting the side or front of the hole I'd start with the assumption that the hole is right, and the engine/trans is wrong.

MustangBradley

TX65Coupe makes a good point. The stock T5 will last a long time if you drive the car like an adult would (No slamming).

I installed a Tremec 3550 which is essentially the same thing as the tko500. I got a trans crossmember designed to put the 3550 in a 1965 and did not have to cut anything. One problem I did have was the shifter poked through the floor about an inch closer to the firewall than the stock Toploader did. I solved that problem with a new shiftboot.

http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/

482supersnake

Mcleod has a new 5 speed coming out soon that is very close to the t-5 in size but is as strong as a tko600. So it might be worth talking to them if you aren't in a big hurry to get it done. Also 65 through 68 used the same floor pan assembly so the trans tunnels will be the same size, the trans cross members are different though. In any event it would probably be best to get some of the adjustable engine mounts to help get everything lined up. Scott

Norm Peterson

IIRC, the 3550's are a fair bit lighter duty than the TKO500's. 375 - 400, maybe 425 ft-lbs vs 500.

However, I can vouch for a 3550 being strong enough to live behind a moderately built EFI 355 SBC (somewhere in the 350 - 375 region for HP and torque) in some pretty hard driving, although to be fair that does not include any dragstrip duty or similarly harsh burnout/clutch-sidestepping nonsense.


Norm

cprstreetmachines

JMD, that's great yours fit. What are your total u-joint angles on that car ?

Every car is different. Tire size and ride height will all play a role in whether it fits a particular car or not. Drive line angles are not a "if it fits one, it fits them all" scenario.

TexasAxMan

On mine I had a choice, put the engine where it wants to be (to line up the z-bar linkage) and cut the shifter opening (less than 1/2") or line up the shifter hole and deal with the clutch linkage and driveshaft length. As it is I spent 15 minutes with a cutoff wheel and had it in there with 7/8" slip room on my driveshaft (stocker from a 6cly/C-4).

I'm certain opinions vary on this, but I think a little trimming on the shifter hole is the best solution for most.

4reboy

Mine's a windsor. Stock they were rated for 290hp and I think 330 ft/lbs for the 4 barrel (M-code). I have the 4 barrel, .04 over, bumped up cam, 650 cfm carb, and performer intake (only does a little). With this logic I'm at least at 300, I'm not saying I have a bunch more than that. Whenever I get the money to put on headers and a better exhaust system there's no doubt I'll be over 300hp.

And I am talking about power at the flywheel, which is all that should be considered for the tranny.