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MustangFTW 67 resto thread.

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Old 02-18-2011, 12:19 AM   #41
Gregski
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wow i just found something nasty under my car what is this piece called?
I believe that's called RUST, jk, lol
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:29 AM   #42
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do you guys think its worth buying a MIG welder for 120$ or rent a Arc welder for 40$ for 4 hours?
You can NOT buy a MIG welder for $120 bucks, what you are probably seeing is a machine called a Flux Core welder. Big difference. A MIG welder uses gas in a separate gas container from the actual machine and it will run you upwards of $400 bucks including the tank, most run on 220 volts. It can weld up to 24 gauge sheet metal (the higher the number the thinner the metal) your mustang is about 19 gauge

A Flux Core cheap jobie runs on 110 volts and will burn right through the sheet metal, ask me how I know bro, I own the cheap machine you are refering to. Don't get me wrong they are great for welding thicker metal like the thickness of a quarter (as in money) or a bit thicker, but they splatter a lot. This machine does not use a gas tank, it uses a special wire that has the shielding built into it, actually around it. They claim to weld up to 18 gauge sheet metal but that is super optimistic.

Then there are the cheap 110 volt Flux Core / MIG welder combo units. They cost $200 bucks without the gas bottle. The gas tank will run you another $100 bucks, so for $300 you will have a mediocer machine.

just trying to help, I need a MIG machine too, I need to weld my floor boards too, check out the Eastwood machine and Lincoln or Miller are the top of the line (from what I've been told)

Last edited by Gregski; 02-18-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:03 AM   #43
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Look at holbart welders. If i remember right their made by miller. I have one and we have had it for years now and done over 20 cars with it and every little project we have had. Think it was around 400-500 and they dont come with the tank and yes you dont need a tank but for good welds its a must other wise u get bird shxt welds.
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:14 AM   #44
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Hobart has some good cheap MIG welders.
I personally have a Lincoln 220v welder, it may be overkill but it's reassuring to know I can weld just about anything.
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:43 PM   #45
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Havent been doing anything lately to the Mustang, going to take it in for a quote on the frame rail work, both rails are now separating from the floor =.=
its probably caused by the HORRIBLE roads in MN, the city is too lazy to pay people to fox potholes bigger then my tires and theres one every 5 feet.

Im thinking of a Power to manual steering conversion. saw this piece on CJ pony parts for 150$ supposed to attached directly to the centerlink and pitman arm. anyone know if this is easy to do? pics?
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:45 PM   #46
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Im thinking of a Power to manual steering conversion. saw this piece on CJ pony parts for 150$ supposed to attached directly to the centerlink and pitman arm. anyone know if this is easy to do? pics?
You are thinking of going from Power Steering to Manual Steering? Really? That would be an interesting conversion. I, personally, have never heard of anyone doing this, but that doesn't really account for much.

I will have to keep an eye on your thread to see what people have to say about your conversion idea. Best of luck.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:26 PM   #47
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Thanks for the input.

I heard of a few people doing it, and would like to do it myself. just wanted to know how hard it is to add this fitting between the centerlink and pitman arm would be, and which parts i would have to remove after doing this.
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:09 AM   #48
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I'm with Marc, why would you want to do that switch? Unless you wanna build arm muscle...

I mean, I've seen rack and pinion swaps, but that's different. Power to manual?...
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:53 AM   #49
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i like the feel of manual more then power. heres the piece i was talking about.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/borgeson-...7-1970/p/MSA2/
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:51 PM   #50
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Anyway, screw manual steering for now i have more annoying fish to fry :P
my front right side is squeaking like a mad man, mostly the right sometimes the left, only when i go over bumps or potholes. im pretty sure i have to lube somethin just not sure what/where to lube any info will be appreciated. Also i cant tell if my idle is correct seems a bit high to me but im not sure, if i put up a video of the car running would you guys be able tell if its too high or too low?
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:07 PM   #51
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OK guys this quality is pretty bad but see if you can tell, not expecting you to be able to give anywhere near an exact answer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdjCTFnWG7A
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:48 PM   #52
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If your front end is making noise, start looking for zerk fittngs. I bet the noise you have is coming from the upper control/A arms.

If your asking about the idle, it does sound a little high.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:15 AM   #53
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ok guys it hit a whopping 60 degrees here a couple days ago, did some sanding, priming and bondoing. now i have a question on paint, the car is sprayed with rustoleum primer. i did this after roughing up the paint. do you guys suggest i re prime the whole car with real primer before painting it? thank god its a vinyl hardtop so there like nothin to paint on the car lol. going for lime gold should would black primer be fine or should i prime with grey?
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:29 PM   #54
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Lol ummm, yes it would probably be a good idea. Epoxy if there are bare spots, 2k if not.
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:40 PM   #55
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Has anyone replaced their frame rails with round ones full length front to back?
i was thinking since my frame rails are rotted i could try this if it was possible.

edit:

im looking at these now, would these work in replacing the frame rails or only enforcing them?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...?T1=CEE3140+01

Last edited by MustangFTW; 03-31-2011 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:04 PM   #56
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Just re painted my valve covers and carb cover with some fresh Ford Blue. the color it was painted before was either ford blue with grease and grime on it, or it couldve been GM Blue.

alot of this white/yellowish stuff in the valve cover and gunking up the oil cap thingeh. cleaned them out real good.
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:34 PM   #57
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the car is sprayed with rustoleum primer. i did this after roughing up the paint. do you guys suggest i re prime the whole car with real primer before painting it?
do you have an air compressor, paint gun, etc, or did you rattle can that rustoleum and plan on rattle canning the gray or black primer now, if you have bare metal and plan on using rattle cans than hit the bare metal lightly with etch primer, don't shoot the whole car with etch primer just the bare metal, then go build primer over the whole car, then sand 180 grit then 320 grit dry or up to 600 wet

if you have the air compressor and paint gun you could shoot the two part epoxy primer, you will need a can of the primer (first part), a bottle of activator (hardener) (second part), and a bottle of reducer (optional), keep in mind you really don't want to sand epoxy primer as it's not designed for that (it is very rubbery clogs your sand paper) and it will leave an orange peal after you spray it on, so you will need to shoot build primer over that, the nice thing about epoxy is that it will stick to bare metal, bondo, prior primer, old paint, your skin, lol, etc...
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:35 PM   #58
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Just re painted my valve covers and carb cover with some fresh Ford Blue.
Oh yeah prove it, jk, picture please. Did you primer them first, did you use wax and grease remover before you shot them with paint?
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:38 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangFTW View Post
Has anyone replaced their frame rails with round ones full length front to back?
i was thinking since my frame rails are rotted i could try this if it was possible.

edit:

im looking at these now, would these work in replacing the frame rails or only enforcing them?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...?T1=CEE3140+01
not sure how round frame rails would work as they hold the body, and the body would need flat brackets to sit on, I'm sure it could be done, but it would be a lot of work, a lot of welding

Subframe conectors are just that, they just go between the front portion of your frame and the back portion of your frame, they don't replace anything, they go into the space that is empty right now, right now your car body is holding your car together.
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:48 PM   #60
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Oh yeah prove it, jk, picture please. Did you primer them first, did you use wax and grease remover before you shot them with paint?

pics up soon, i used degreaser to clean them then sanded to make the surface a bit rough, then sprayed. holy hell the left one (if your infront of the car) is hard to get off and on with all the tubes and wires going across.
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:48 PM
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