boeing747arowair

Hey guys how you doing. well i recently got my 200 running for the first time in 8 yrs! I did a fresh rebuild. Rebuilt 1100 and it has the Pertronix Ignitor 2. I did my cam break in with no problems yesterday. high oil pressure temperature is good.

I just want advice on tuning it now. Please advise what is the correct procedure for timing it now and carb adjusment. The cam i installed is from comp cams. I cannot remeber the specs but it not radical at all.

thanks guys just want to get everything dialed in correctly to get it idling at where it is supposed to be. BTW. It is the correct carb with the SCV comabined with the loadomatic

thanks,

boeing747arowair

bump....

Xargon321

Best bet would be to go to Fordsix.com forum that all they do over there and can give you advice on just about everything six

Tilley

Initial break in was to run it for 30 minutes at idle, then change the oil. Drive it 500 miles at an easy pace, then change the oil. 3000 miles after that.

You will need to compensate the increased horsepower with increased cooling. I had the beefed up cam, and the ports were ground and a more efficient valve boots(?) were installed...not sure what they were called.

The end result was the car ran great, but would overheat at an idle. An electric fan works wonders.

boeing747arowair

Well i ran the car at 2500-3000 rpm for the cam breakin. Only and only after that i idled it. but now i want to adjust carb and timing. that is what i am asking here

scott_m_mil

I myself don't come from the drive it nicely for 500 miles school. I come from the "break in the cam (which you did) then DRIVE it like to stole it" school. Either way you go won't affect carb and timing.

For timing the book calls for 12 degrees initial on early models and 6 on later. They went to 6 for emissions reasons. I went to 12 on mine and picked up a slight bit more performance.

Carb tuning on an 1100 is very straight forward, there is only one screw for fuel mixture. However, it might be good to let the rings break in a bit before a 'final' tuning. Using a vacuum gauge I turn the screw in (leaning) until a see a drop in vacuum, then slowly bring the screw back out (riching) until I hit max vacuum. Once vacuum peaks, stop, and then go back in roughly 1/4 turn. After that you can adjust the screw that sets the idle until you get an appropriate idle RPM.

If you still see the car is running rich or lean (based on plugs) you may need to change the jet. That's a bit more involved.

boeing747arowair

scott thanks so much for the help! which one is the screw for the idle then? I know the one on the back by the choke is the fast idle but which one for the warm regular idle

Tilley

It's the screw facing the driver's side fender.