Cut Out Full Length Floor Pans Twist Warp
#1
Cut Out Full Length Floor Pans Twist Warp
Got the front of my 68 coupe on jack stands the rear on it's wheels. A slight angle but not level for sure. I am about to cut out one full length floor pan at a time (passenger side first then when done do the same on the driver side) and weld in a new one.
The question is will cutting out a floor section that big weaken the structure to where it can twist or warp the vehicle? Am I better off making the car level, only lazyness prevents me from doing so, LOL. Is any temporary bracing required?
Apologies for yet another floor repair thread, but I like to ask specific questions, they may help others out as well in the future and may be easier to search / find.
Thanks in advance,
California Greg
The question is will cutting out a floor section that big weaken the structure to where it can twist or warp the vehicle? Am I better off making the car level, only lazyness prevents me from doing so, LOL. Is any temporary bracing required?
Apologies for yet another floor repair thread, but I like to ask specific questions, they may help others out as well in the future and may be easier to search / find.
Thanks in advance,
California Greg
#2
Ive done full floors before and gettining square an right heights is key - I will let an expert weigh in but just being as **** as i am - I would ensure square and get heights to factory manual specs. Since a coupe bracing is not critical. I used a lazer level when setting mine up. Only take you a couple hours more
#3
Get the car reasonably level, place the jack stands well, (not too far back on the front pair or the front end might sag, too far forward on the front pair might tend to make the middle of the car sag), and then work smart. As you go, make sure you aren't changing your door gaps etc.
The IMPORTANT thing is that everything lines up.
The IMPORTANT thing is that everything lines up.
#5
you gotta know when to fold 'em
well after practicing MIG welding some sheet metal and failing big time, I decided it is best for the pros to handle this task, so I had the car towed ($65 bucks) on a flat bed truck to a local shop that specializes in classic mustangs, I really wanted a car guy to weld in the new floors and not just a good welder, know what I mean
let me tell you how the costs break down before I give you the bottom line, as they did more than just the floors
first of all this does not include the sheet metal, I bought the sheet metal on my own from a local mustang store and this shop was totally cool with that
so to weld in two full length floor pans (driver side and passenger side) plus two seat risers (you guessed it driver side and passenger side) it was $650 bucks, not bad
this included sealing the seams and painting the work inside the car and underneath the vehicle with POR15 plus coating it with this undercoating spray (I forgot the name so I will take a picture of the empty spray can they gave me to do the rest of the inside with)
take a look at the pictures I think it turned out great
let me tell you how the costs break down before I give you the bottom line, as they did more than just the floors
first of all this does not include the sheet metal, I bought the sheet metal on my own from a local mustang store and this shop was totally cool with that
so to weld in two full length floor pans (driver side and passenger side) plus two seat risers (you guessed it driver side and passenger side) it was $650 bucks, not bad
this included sealing the seams and painting the work inside the car and underneath the vehicle with POR15 plus coating it with this undercoating spray (I forgot the name so I will take a picture of the empty spray can they gave me to do the rest of the inside with)
take a look at the pictures I think it turned out great
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junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-28-2015 10:53 AM