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65 mustang wont crank, just clicks. HELP

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Old 06-08-2012, 10:50 PM
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Ford805
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Default 65 mustang wont crank, just clicks. HELP

So my 65 mustang was not running awhile back and i found it to be the resistor wire that was causing the problem. i bypassed the wire and it started up fine. the next day i try starting it and it just clicks once then all the power dies(all light go out) i have to unplug the ground battery cable then put it back in to regain power when the key is in the ON position. still when i try to start it up it does the same thing. one click then it dies. the starter is a few months old and i had the battery checked and its good. i replaced the positive battery cable and still nothing. even when i connect a wire from the solenoid to the battery i still just get a click. ive checked the wire connections and cleaned them and they all seem good. Should i just swap out the old solenoid? im really at a lose right now. please ANY help!

Thanks
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:02 PM
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Jonk67
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The resistor wire gives a limited amount of juice like 6volts to the coil to start without frying the points, did you bypass that and give a full 12v to the coil?

A clicking solenoid means that it cannot make a solid connection and isn't getting enough volts/amps to make a solid connection internally to complete the circuit and send amperage to the starter. If you have a volt meter see how many volts are getting to the pos. side of the sol. and how many are on the starter post when trying to crank.

A pic of the wiring at your solenoid would help.
Jon
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Old 06-09-2012, 01:57 PM
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Ford805
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Ok so I took some readings and here what I got (all of these readings are when car is in the ON position because all power goes out if I crank it)
At the solenoid(S): 0.13
At the solenoid(I): 11.0
At the starter side of solenoid: 0.12
At the coil: 11.0
Any of these readings look odd??

Thank you
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:33 PM
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mr_velocity
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Measure the voltage at the battery when trying to crank. If it drops very low then you have a bad battery.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:06 PM
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Jonk67
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How did you have the battery 'checked'? The proper way is to have a full charge (best to leave it for 12hrs. at the parts store to deep charge) then have it load tested. I have seen often that a quick test shows the battery good but a deep charge and load test reveals a dead cell or dying battery.

I'll have to dig out my shop manual to check readings at coil, etc.
Jon
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