Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Suspension Disappointment

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-01-2012, 05:52 AM
  #11  
kenash
2nd Gear Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
Default

Hi,
When you installed the front components and started torquing them, was the suspension loaded?
Hmmm?
kenash is offline  
Old 07-01-2012, 06:18 AM
  #12  
RC65
1st Gear Member
 
RC65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 63
Default

Originally Posted by Falcopilot
Thanks folks! It would have to settle a LOT to get to an even ride height........I'm kicking myself for not doing the Shelby drop while having everything off the car, FOR A YEAR.......DOHHHH..........idiot.

When I sat it down on the floor after all this time and the rear settled so low, I could have cried......broke my heart.....oh well....it's part of it I guess. I'm learnin'!!
Agreed, after contemplating and finally doing the drop, it was one of the easier things to do, especially with the other stuff out of the way! Even to take it back apart just takes some time, but IMO is worth it and the 1/2" additional drop (+/-) may be enough to get the look your after as well without changing the rear. When the front goes down the rear will go up as well!
RC65 is offline  
Old 07-01-2012, 06:27 AM
  #13  
2+2GT
6th Gear Member
 
2+2GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Default

Originally Posted by Falcopilot
Thanks folks! It would have to settle a LOT to get to an even ride height........I'm kicking myself for not doing the Shelby drop while having everything off the car, FOR A YEAR.......DOHHHH..........idiot.

When I sat it down on the floor after all this time and the rear settled so low, I could have cried......broke my heart.....oh well....it's part of it I guess. I'm learnin'!!
Originally Posted by kenash
Hi,
When you installed the front components and started torquing them, was the suspension loaded?
Hmmm?
The rear isn't low, the front is high.

a) You need to do the "drop" now, before you spring for wheel alignment. Not just because it will lower the front end about 5/8", that's just a side effect. The "drop" improves handling dramatically, by causing the suspension to resist roll, and by keeping the tires more square with the road, which "radial tunes" the suspension.

b) The inner end of the lower control arm should not be torqued until the weight of the car is on the suspension. Right now your inner bushing is acting as a spring, raising the suspension slightly. The same is true of the eye and shackles in the rear end, to some extent.

Last edited by 2+2GT; 07-01-2012 at 06:30 AM.
2+2GT is offline  
Old 07-01-2012, 08:27 AM
  #14  
Falcopilot
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Falcopilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 207
Default

Didn't torque the LCA's before lowering it on the floor. They are both just "snug" at the moment. We'll see how it settles.......my fingers are crossed. The engine and tranny are about to come out, so it will be a bit before it's aligned. Will do the drop when the engine is out.

Thanks everyone!!
Falcopilot is offline  
Old 07-01-2012, 12:46 PM
  #15  
Jonk67
3rd Gear Member
 
Jonk67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 678
Default

Good idea on doing the drop before alignment, be sure to bring the shelby alignment specs with you, if they align to stock it will steer horrible. This is good reading:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
Jon
Jonk67 is offline  
Old 07-02-2012, 05:48 PM
  #16  
65coupei6
 
65coupei6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 18
Default

Also, what spacer did you use on the front springs? They sell two of them. One is 1/4" and the other is 1".

The easy way to settle the suspension is to roll it up and down your driveway if you have a slope. If it takes more than that to settle it to the correct height them something is wrong. It should not take weeks/months to settle.
65coupei6 is offline  
Old 07-02-2012, 07:16 PM
  #17  
Falcopilot
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Falcopilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 207
Default

Originally Posted by 65coupei6
Also, what spacer did you use on the front springs? They sell two of them. One is 1/4" and the other is 1".

The easy way to settle the suspension is to roll it up and down your driveway if you have a slope. If it takes more than that to settle it to the correct height them something is wrong. It should not take weeks/months to settle.
I assume by "spacer" you mean the insulator on top. I did not buy eurathane.......so there was only one choice and the part of the spacer that is above the spring is probably less than a 1/4".

I have a steep driveway that is over 300' long......but the car isn't running at the moment and the engine is coming out so the car isn't moving for awhile. I'll do the drop while the engine is out and see where I am when the engine is in.

Pardon my ignorance on the matter, but what is there to "settle"? I wouldn't think the spring would sag.......bushings? I did the same front suspension rebuild on my '91 GT 5 years aga and it hasn't settled at all since I put it together. Trying to learn here..........my first guess is the issue is the mid-eye leafs....letting the rear sit too low.....and the 289 doesn't weigh enough to compress the 620 springs when static.

Thanks again for all the input!! This forum is awesome! I"ve learned a lot!
Falcopilot is offline  
Old 07-02-2012, 09:10 PM
  #18  
racer_dave
3rd Gear Member
 
racer_dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 516
Default

A good quality spring should not 'settle' much if at all. In racing its called loosing free height, and it happens when we stress our springs past their intended load rating. On a street car that never coil binds the spring it shouldn't settle enough to notice.

Easiest thing to do is to pull each spring and cut part of a coil off. How much depends on the slope of the spring coils, how much weight is on the spring, and the spring rate. Start small and work up. Cut off 1/4 coil, then another 1/4 and test ride height each time. Don't get all eager and cut a full coil, it will probably be too much, biggesst I'd go in the first cut is 1/2 coil.

Do NOT use a torch to cut the springs, use a cutoff wheel in an air/electric grinder. As a note, cutting off some of a coil will raise the spring rate a little, but probably not enough to notice if you're not running it on the track. There's a formula to figure it, but didn't feel like it was worth getting into...

Didn't see this mentioned, but all the bushings were greased/lubed before installing, right?

Good luck, nice coupe!
racer_dave is offline  
Old 07-02-2012, 09:24 PM
  #19  
Falcopilot
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Falcopilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 207
Default

Originally Posted by racer_dave
A good quality spring should not 'settle' much if at all. In racing its called loosing free height, and it happens when we stress our springs past their intended load rating. On a street car that never coil binds the spring it shouldn't settle enough to notice.

Easiest thing to do is to pull each spring and cut part of a coil off. How much depends on the slope of the spring coils, how much weight is on the spring, and the spring rate. Start small and work up. Cut off 1/4 coil, then another 1/4 and test ride height each time. Don't get all eager and cut a full coil, it will probably be too much, biggesst I'd go in the first cut is 1/2 coil.

Do NOT use a torch to cut the springs, use a cutoff wheel in an air/electric grinder. As a note, cutting off some of a coil will raise the spring rate a little, but probably not enough to notice if you're not running it on the track. There's a formula to figure it, but didn't feel like it was worth getting into...

Didn't see this mentioned, but all the bushings were greased/lubed before installing, right?

Good luck, nice coupe!
Thanks Dave. Yep, everything lubed and greased up front!!

I don't see myself cutting a spring.........never been a fan of that. Other than doing the drop I'll not worry anymore about the suspension until I have it running again.
Falcopilot is offline  
Old 07-02-2012, 09:28 PM
  #20  
Starfury
6th Gear Member
 
Starfury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Default

My Grab-a-Trak .620" (they're 560lb, not 620lb, despite common belief) 1" drop springs did settle a little bit after install. Not a lot, maybe 1/2" at most. Still, you don't want to go cutting until you know exactly where the car sits after driving it around for a while. You will need to cut them, though, if you want the front to level out with the back. There's nothing wrong with cutting the springs down, as long as you don't use a torch to do it.

The mid-eye leafs are sitting exactly as they should. They're designed to drop the ride height, and they appear to be sitting at about the same level as mine, which are the exact same springs.
Starfury is offline  


Quick Reply: Suspension Disappointment



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:34 AM.