New 302 crankshaft in old 289 block.
07-21-2012, 01:51 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 30
New 302 crankshaft in old 289 block.
Yes.. I know it's not worth it really.. only 11ish HP but I really want to do it.. but my question is I know the old 302 cranks have 2 piece rear main seals and the newer ones have 1 pieces.. can you fit / make a 1 piece fit into a 60s 289 block? I only ask becuase the newer 302 forged crankshafts are a bit cheaper than a machined one to fit in a 60s or 70s 302. at leas from what i've been looking at
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...347-crank.html
Post #2 says
You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification. But in order to use a crank that is made for a 2 piece rear seal in a 5.0 block, you have to grind off the "slinger" at the back of the crankshaft. Can be done at home easily if you're careful. I used a bench grinder. I also used an old block on another crank, a couple bearings in the block, have someone spin the crank slowly with a cordless drill on low speed, and use an angle grinder to evenly remove the "slinger". If it's cast crank, it grinds VERY easily. Just make sure you have eye, ear, AND breathing protection. Cast iron dust is not nice. Makes ya have black boogers for a week!
"""You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification.""" <-- true? or not
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...347-crank.html
Post #2 says
You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification. But in order to use a crank that is made for a 2 piece rear seal in a 5.0 block, you have to grind off the "slinger" at the back of the crankshaft. Can be done at home easily if you're careful. I used a bench grinder. I also used an old block on another crank, a couple bearings in the block, have someone spin the crank slowly with a cordless drill on low speed, and use an angle grinder to evenly remove the "slinger". If it's cast crank, it grinds VERY easily. Just make sure you have eye, ear, AND breathing protection. Cast iron dust is not nice. Makes ya have black boogers for a week!
"""You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification.""" <-- true? or not
07-21-2012, 07:37 AM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
Yes.. I know it's not worth it really.. only 11ish HP but I really want to do it.. but my question is I know the old 302 cranks have 2 piece rear main seals and the newer ones have 1 pieces.. can you fit / make a 1 piece fit into a 60s 289 block? I only ask becuase the newer 302 forged crankshafts are a bit cheaper than a machined one to fit in a 60s or 70s 302. at leas from what i've been looking at
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...347-crank.html
Post #2 says
You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification. But in order to use a crank that is made for a 2 piece rear seal in a 5.0 block, you have to grind off the "slinger" at the back of the crankshaft. Can be done at home easily if you're careful. I used a bench grinder. I also used an old block on another crank, a couple bearings in the block, have someone spin the crank slowly with a cordless drill on low speed, and use an angle grinder to evenly remove the "slinger". If it's cast crank, it grinds VERY easily. Just make sure you have eye, ear, AND breathing protection. Cast iron dust is not nice. Makes ya have black boogers for a week!
"""You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification.""" <-- true? or not
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...347-crank.html
Post #2 says
You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification. But in order to use a crank that is made for a 2 piece rear seal in a 5.0 block, you have to grind off the "slinger" at the back of the crankshaft. Can be done at home easily if you're careful. I used a bench grinder. I also used an old block on another crank, a couple bearings in the block, have someone spin the crank slowly with a cordless drill on low speed, and use an angle grinder to evenly remove the "slinger". If it's cast crank, it grinds VERY easily. Just make sure you have eye, ear, AND breathing protection. Cast iron dust is not nice. Makes ya have black boogers for a week!
"""You can use a crank that is designed for a one piece seal in an older (302, 289) block without modification.""" <-- true? or not
Sorry no direct experience in installing a later 302 into a 289 block. But the procedure for crank modification seems straight forward. But, I would modify the bearing housing to accept the one piece seal, if I were doing the installation. Anyway, since the strokes are different, you do know the piston/rods will need to be changed?
Good Luck!
07-21-2012, 11:34 AM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,027
Don't forget you need to change the rods as well. Probably cheaper to just find a newer 302 and rebuild it. I got my 1990 302HO for $300 (and it's a roller block), made a great base to build off of. All the bolt holes will line up for the accessories, rip out the fuel injection put on a stealth or air gap intake and a holley carb.
07-21-2012, 03:21 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 30
I would prefer to keep this block.. and what do you mean by "modify the bearing housing" Kenash?
And yes.. the rods need to be changed and it's getting new pistons.. it was locked up when i got it.. whoever ran it last had it burning oil and overheating.. that oil was NASTY.. i can't believe it ran when it was parked
And yes.. the rods need to be changed and it's getting new pistons.. it was locked up when i got it.. whoever ran it last had it burning oil and overheating.. that oil was NASTY.. i can't believe it ran when it was parked
07-22-2012, 06:23 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
I would prefer to keep this block.. and what do you mean by "modify the bearing housing" Kenash?
And yes.. the rods need to be changed and it's getting new pistons.. it was locked up when i got it.. whoever ran it last had it burning oil and overheating.. that oil was NASTY.. i can't believe it ran when it was parked
And yes.. the rods need to be changed and it's getting new pistons.. it was locked up when i got it.. whoever ran it last had it burning oil and overheating.. that oil was NASTY.. i can't believe it ran when it was parked
Ditto for Starfury's comments. That's what I was eluding too.
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