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Brake swap progress and PITA

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Old 11-07-2012, 12:47 AM
  #21  
toybreaker
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The big reservior is for the front brakes, smaller for the rear. yes put in a proportioning valve, adjustable would be best since your rear brakes are smaller than the ones that came with the cobra.
Also check your brake booster to make sure the diaphram is whole.... If you disconnect the vacuum line is it even harder to use the brakes?
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:30 PM
  #22  
MonsterBilly
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i am running a 2004 master cylinder. It has a single resevoir that feeds both sections. The one closest to the firewall has a larger flare fitting than the one on toward the front of the car. i assume this is the one i use for the front brakes. I have been running the prop valve for a a couple years. i dont really mess with it much
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:06 PM
  #23  
crunchyskippy
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MonsterBilly - For what it's worth, the larger flare fitting on the stock master cylinder is for the rear brakes. In my picture above, you can see the large adapter I utilized. (Keep in mind that the front reservoir feeds the rear brakes in my example.)

Falcopilot - I gave up with the proportioning valve because I couldn't figure out a good place to mount it. The intended spot for the prop valve on the bracket (located under the MC) was difficult because I had to install the MC and Booster as a single unit. (My shock tower is about a 1/2" closer to the firewall than it was from the factory - most likely due to a front end collision unknown to me.) I just do not possess the skills, really, to fab the lines in a nice tight/clean fashion.

On another note, I got the brake pedal bolt through last night! I have now discovered that I suck at bleeding brakes. Who knows how many attempts it will take. I'm considering hand held vacuum units.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:03 AM
  #24  
Falcopilot
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Originally Posted by crunchyskippy
Falcopilot - I gave up with the proportioning valve because I couldn't figure out a good place to mount it. The intended spot for the prop valve on the bracket (located under the MC) was difficult because I had to install the MC and Booster as a single unit. (My shock tower is about a 1/2" closer to the firewall than it was from the factory - most likely due to a front end collision unknown to me.) I just do not possess the skills, really, to fab the lines in a nice tight/clean fashion.

On another note, I got the brake pedal bolt through last night! I have now discovered that I suck at bleeding brakes. Who knows how many attempts it will take. I'm considering hand held vacuum units.
Good deal on the bolt!!

I bought a Mityvac to try since I'm redoing all the brakes. We shall see.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:07 PM
  #25  
crunchyskippy
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Well - I have completed the swap and properly bled the brakes. I can say that the car is SIGNFICANTLY more enjoyable to drive now (with power disc brakes) vs. previously (manual drums). I do wish I could have completed this swap earlier! I would definitely recommend it to anyone with manual drums.

Bleeding all four corners took just a tad more than a quart of brake fluid, and was assisted by utilizing "speed bleeders" (at the suggestion of the auto parts clerk when I came back for my 2nd quart).

Good luck Falcopilot - keep us posted.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:42 PM
  #26  
Falcopilot
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Originally Posted by crunchyskippy
Well - I have completed the swap and properly bled the brakes. I can say that the car is SIGNFICANTLY more enjoyable to drive now (with power disc brakes) vs. previously (manual drums). I do wish I could have completed this swap earlier! I would definitely recommend it to anyone with manual drums.

Bleeding all four corners took just a tad more than a quart of brake fluid, and was assisted by utilizing "speed bleeders" (at the suggestion of the auto parts clerk when I came back for my 2nd quart).

Good luck Falcopilot - keep us posted.
Will do!!

And congrats!!

I'm taking all fo next week off.......should have three good days to work on the car......got lots to do!!
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