oxfordbp

Im thinking of using a 65 AMP 6 Gang Fuse Block for key on power to my accessories. I want to use a relay from my 12v hot from battery, to switch key no power to the block. Similar to this: http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id42.html while using this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATC-ATO-6-Gang-Raised-Fuse-Block-65-AMP-/350748531622?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51aa3ddba6&vxp=mtr
My question is that Im using a 100 amp 1-wire alt. I will be pulling the 12v from the battery side of my solenoid which will be 14.8v while running. How do I create a steady 12v or do I need to? I want to use this setup for my fuel pump, coil, and my E-fan.

I hope you can understand my question. Im worried that supplying 14.8v to my accessories that they will fry. (do they only use what they need?) How would I choke the voltage down to 12v?

Thanks!!

Gun Jam

well what voltage do you think they are running on now?

Does your alt really generate a 14.8v charge? mine is closer to 13.8v

Whatever V you measure at your battery is equal as far as I know to voltage of all accessories minus a bit for sag across old connections or long wires.

oxfordbp

Good point. Ill check the volts tomorrow. And yes, I'm charging close to 14.7-8v.

I just don't want to fry anything by supplying too many volts to them.

oxfordbp

And for the record, I'm doing this because I feel I'm asking too much of the one accessory in the stock fuse box.

90_notch

I would think you will be OK, and not burn anything up. I had to install a relay to get full battery power to my fan, and another to get full battery power to my coil. My voltage at battery is between 13.6 and 14.4 depending on on engine speed, and how many accessories are running at that time.

oxfordbp

Cool. Ill give it a shot!

jlg2002

Most automotive equipment has voltage tolerance to contend with the charging system loads. They make a voltage regulator IC chip but i doubt they make one to take 65 amps.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about the voltage and go ahead and connect it where you plan to-be sure to use 10 gauge or larger wiring to feed that new block.

kenash

Hi,
I run a similar set up. I have a utility power strip fed by 12Vs through a 30A rated relay attached to my radiator panel. I applaud that you run a relay. To this, I run, among others, my electric fuel pump and my ignition system. Relays save a lot of low amp rated switches and are highly recommended. The fact that during operation (above idle) your Alt is making 14.4 or what ever volts, has nothing to do in itself, with that pwr strip you're adding. The Alt supplies voltage to the battery to stay ahead of the car's consumption. What will fry electrical devices, are internal shorts to ground which causes a high amp spike through that device. It's amps that "kill", not volts, unless a low voltage device.
Just insure you have good grounds throughout. Insure the grounds are clean and secure, this includes, chassis to the block and the battery to the block. It has been noted, ribbon type ground straps are superior to rope cables. I run ribbon or strap cable between my block and the chassis.

oxfordbp

Hey great! Thanks guys!!

Gun Jam

Almost all electrical devices have a Voltage limit and a Thermal Junction (TJ) limit. Any device that uses a micro processor, EFT, (Radios, Tachs, voltage regulators and so on) can be damaged by excessive voltage which could be encountered during a voltage regulator failure allowing your alt to run away. The TJ would not be exceeded unless the device had an internal failure causing large amp draw.