Project planning
#1
Project planning
So....first post here.
I Haven't utilized the search function much yet...Figured the best way to get to know everyone is to jump right in and ask some questions. So please don't flame too much about the search mechanism. i will use it...i have been on several message boards for another hobby (for the past 20 years) so I know people like it when you search first and ask questions that you are unable to find the answer to.
That being said.....I am in the planning stages...to start hopefully next year. I've had a couple mustangs in the past...a 65 that was ratty...my first one...200 I6 auto..rusty and full of bondo...was the start of the obsession....second was a nice 66 I6 3 spd.converted to v8 289 C same 3 spd 8" falcon front 5 lug drums... gt exhaust and SS wheels..solid car. sorry I sold it close to 15 years ago..dumb... but had young kids and no time.
I am in the planning stages for my 3rd mustang...to start hopefully next year.
First things first...Locating my next car. Prefer 66 or later 65 with the 5 guage cluster..coup...v8 manual trans car. Would like a complete car so as not to have to hunt down little parts that I don't remember and having all the parts in the car at the start I can document how they come out if I think I need to. Do I look for a SW car??..and try and get a relatively rust free shell...don't care how the car runs as the motor will get a rebuild or if the paint is any good as long as the cars structure isn't full of rust....this is a little itimidating as I don't want to get a car and find a buch of things are bad once I start the teardown OR Do I look for that complete car at the best deal and deal with its problems with cowl vent repair and floor pans and quarter panel replacement??
So HERE it starts......What say you??
I was a mechanic for a lot of years...so I know my way around pretty well mechanically...will take up welding as I know I will need to do some...and have done a little body stuff...I just don't want to end up with some basket case that sits forever then ultimately sold.
Thanks in advance.
In and For Christ,
Glen
I Haven't utilized the search function much yet...Figured the best way to get to know everyone is to jump right in and ask some questions. So please don't flame too much about the search mechanism. i will use it...i have been on several message boards for another hobby (for the past 20 years) so I know people like it when you search first and ask questions that you are unable to find the answer to.
That being said.....I am in the planning stages...to start hopefully next year. I've had a couple mustangs in the past...a 65 that was ratty...my first one...200 I6 auto..rusty and full of bondo...was the start of the obsession....second was a nice 66 I6 3 spd.converted to v8 289 C same 3 spd 8" falcon front 5 lug drums... gt exhaust and SS wheels..solid car. sorry I sold it close to 15 years ago..dumb... but had young kids and no time.
I am in the planning stages for my 3rd mustang...to start hopefully next year.
First things first...Locating my next car. Prefer 66 or later 65 with the 5 guage cluster..coup...v8 manual trans car. Would like a complete car so as not to have to hunt down little parts that I don't remember and having all the parts in the car at the start I can document how they come out if I think I need to. Do I look for a SW car??..and try and get a relatively rust free shell...don't care how the car runs as the motor will get a rebuild or if the paint is any good as long as the cars structure isn't full of rust....this is a little itimidating as I don't want to get a car and find a buch of things are bad once I start the teardown OR Do I look for that complete car at the best deal and deal with its problems with cowl vent repair and floor pans and quarter panel replacement??
So HERE it starts......What say you??
I was a mechanic for a lot of years...so I know my way around pretty well mechanically...will take up welding as I know I will need to do some...and have done a little body stuff...I just don't want to end up with some basket case that sits forever then ultimately sold.
Thanks in advance.
In and For Christ,
Glen
#2
Welcome to the forum and back to the addiction. It might help to know what your budget is. I would anticipate most people are just going to say the answer is both! Buy the most rust free/complete car you can. In all seriousness, in the long run the cheapest car you'll buy is one that's completely "done". With that said if you're on this forum and like a project, my vote is for a rust free car even if it isn't complete. You can pretty much buy every component you would ever need out of a catalog. My $0.02.
#3
Thanks 90!!
I'm not sure on budget as I expect this project to be over a couple years. I plan on doing most of the work myself to keep cost down. If I had to guess I would say I would like to keep the total budget $12k or under. Not sure how feasible that is. I don't plan on building something unique or special so to speak. I just want a nice driver/cruiser car that is safe and reliable and looks decent.
I hear what you are saying about a finished car.....I have considered it and may still go that route if I find the right one. It's the thought of parting with the big lump of cash versus spreading out the expendatures over time that gets me.
So here are more details of what I thnk I want to do. You can tell me I'm all wet and will never get it done for the money I want to spend
Engine - 289/302 motor. I can build the engine so just machining cost. Would build basically stock. Would add screw in studs in the heads, hardened seats for unleaded gas. A mild cam a step or 2 above stock. Electronic ignition and 4 bbl intake and carb...shorty headers probably...Dual exhaust. Would entertain a roller cam 302 if the price was right.
Trans - if car comes with 4 speed, probably rebuild it (at some point anyway). if not, maybe do t5 conversion. diaphragm clutch with z bar or hydraulic for the t5.
Suspension - 4.5 or 5 leaf springs in back. rebuild of 8" rear or possible 8.8 conversion to get some better gears and trac lok. Rebuild front suspension, using stock arms and roller perches and shelby drop. I would love to do the SoT tube control arms but hear they are expensive....want to do rack and pinion and adjustable strut rods for sure. Some disc brake conversion as well. 1" sway bar, export brace and monte carlo bar.
I'll do any/all rust repair with new panels. But this is where my biggest dilema lies. Pay a little more for a low rust car and take a small chance I will find some hidden rust in quarters or cowl that needs repair...I guess I would almost expect that. OR Pay less and have to do more metal work. I know starting with something that is somewhat rusty will end in a car that I know is all solid metal in the end but will require a lot more time and money. And I don't want to have a lot of filler on the car if possible.
I have read a couple different places on doing a mod by adding the inner rockers from a convertible along with seat riser and torque boxes and it really stiffens up the chassis. Not sure this one is worth doing but like the idea of making the unit body structure solid to aid in the longevity of the car, better handling, etc.
Thoughts??
In and For Christ,
Glen
I'm not sure on budget as I expect this project to be over a couple years. I plan on doing most of the work myself to keep cost down. If I had to guess I would say I would like to keep the total budget $12k or under. Not sure how feasible that is. I don't plan on building something unique or special so to speak. I just want a nice driver/cruiser car that is safe and reliable and looks decent.
I hear what you are saying about a finished car.....I have considered it and may still go that route if I find the right one. It's the thought of parting with the big lump of cash versus spreading out the expendatures over time that gets me.
So here are more details of what I thnk I want to do. You can tell me I'm all wet and will never get it done for the money I want to spend
Engine - 289/302 motor. I can build the engine so just machining cost. Would build basically stock. Would add screw in studs in the heads, hardened seats for unleaded gas. A mild cam a step or 2 above stock. Electronic ignition and 4 bbl intake and carb...shorty headers probably...Dual exhaust. Would entertain a roller cam 302 if the price was right.
Trans - if car comes with 4 speed, probably rebuild it (at some point anyway). if not, maybe do t5 conversion. diaphragm clutch with z bar or hydraulic for the t5.
Suspension - 4.5 or 5 leaf springs in back. rebuild of 8" rear or possible 8.8 conversion to get some better gears and trac lok. Rebuild front suspension, using stock arms and roller perches and shelby drop. I would love to do the SoT tube control arms but hear they are expensive....want to do rack and pinion and adjustable strut rods for sure. Some disc brake conversion as well. 1" sway bar, export brace and monte carlo bar.
I'll do any/all rust repair with new panels. But this is where my biggest dilema lies. Pay a little more for a low rust car and take a small chance I will find some hidden rust in quarters or cowl that needs repair...I guess I would almost expect that. OR Pay less and have to do more metal work. I know starting with something that is somewhat rusty will end in a car that I know is all solid metal in the end but will require a lot more time and money. And I don't want to have a lot of filler on the car if possible.
I have read a couple different places on doing a mod by adding the inner rockers from a convertible along with seat riser and torque boxes and it really stiffens up the chassis. Not sure this one is worth doing but like the idea of making the unit body structure solid to aid in the longevity of the car, better handling, etc.
Thoughts??
In and For Christ,
Glen
#4
Welcome to the forum and back to the addiction. It might help to know what your budget is. I would anticipate most people are just going to say the answer is both! Buy the most rust free/complete car you can. In all seriousness, in the long run the cheapest car you'll buy is one that's completely "done". With that said if you're on this forum and like a project, my vote is for a rust free car even if it isn't complete. You can pretty much buy every component you would ever need out of a catalog. My $0.02.
Your plan sounds good (almost exactly what I ended up with), but your budget is kinda tight. Not saying "not doable," but it will be tight. Plan on more like $15k if you do your own paint work.
#5
I am finishing up my '68 Coupe. The body was/is in excellent shape and have done ZERO body work on the car. The driver's side floor had a couple of pinholes...........I stripped the floor completely......did a complete POR-15 application.....three coats plus two of the top coat. Rebuilt the entire suspension front and rear, put down Dynamat, installed three-point seat belts, swapped in a complete EFI 5.0 HO and AOD, converted to front power discs, moved battery to the trunk and so an and so far..........ALL of the labor performed by myself. Counting purchsaing the car (less than $7k) I am in it for $18k as it sits. The biggest thing is to come up with the amount you can spend........realistically.......and double it.
#6
Here ya go: http://harrisonburg.craigslist.org/cto/4015130146.html
Even leaves some $ for restoration.
Even leaves some $ for restoration.
#7
Thanks 90!!
I'm not sure on budget as I expect this project to be over a couple years. I plan on doing most of the work myself to keep cost down. If I had to guess I would say I would like to keep the total budget $12k or under. Not sure how feasible that is. I don't plan on building something unique or special so to speak. I just want a nice driver/cruiser car that is safe and reliable and looks decent.
.......
Thoughts??
In and For Christ,
Glen
I'm not sure on budget as I expect this project to be over a couple years. I plan on doing most of the work myself to keep cost down. If I had to guess I would say I would like to keep the total budget $12k or under. Not sure how feasible that is. I don't plan on building something unique or special so to speak. I just want a nice driver/cruiser car that is safe and reliable and looks decent.
.......
Thoughts??
In and For Christ,
Glen
#8
Thanks guys....I was figuring that money would be on the low side...but is realistic for me to spend that amount...especially if it strings out over a couple years...could probably float a few thousand more.
Wayne, the car in the craiglist ad looks decent..too bad there aren't any more body pics...just not quite ready to pull the trigger on the car yet...spring time maybe.
For now I'll have to keep living vicariously through you guys and the awesome stuff I am finding here....giving me lots of ideas (= more $).
Thanks again for the replys.
In and For Christ,
Glen
Wayne, the car in the craiglist ad looks decent..too bad there aren't any more body pics...just not quite ready to pull the trigger on the car yet...spring time maybe.
For now I'll have to keep living vicariously through you guys and the awesome stuff I am finding here....giving me lots of ideas (= more $).
Thanks again for the replys.
In and For Christ,
Glen
#9
From a body standpoint - the rails, rockers, torque boxes, cowl, shock towers is where I always look for solidiness. Those can cost you big time in either money if farmed out or time if you are new to welding. I did these on last project and will probably shy away from this kind of work next time around. Just too time consuming for me.
The panels (doors, hood, fender, trunk lid, flooreven qtrs) are all available after market and are bolts on (except qtrs and floor) and all available in various quality and price ranges - from Original tooling to cheaper chinese stuff. If you are going coupe route I would be very tempted to find one close to being done. I've seen quite a few people have put alot time and money into and are selling for a big loss.
The panels (doors, hood, fender, trunk lid, flooreven qtrs) are all available after market and are bolts on (except qtrs and floor) and all available in various quality and price ranges - from Original tooling to cheaper chinese stuff. If you are going coupe route I would be very tempted to find one close to being done. I've seen quite a few people have put alot time and money into and are selling for a big loss.
Last edited by palerider; 10-01-2013 at 03:52 PM.
#10
You're where I was 2-3 years ago. I found a 66 coupe, from original owner, completely went through it, drop suspension, disc brakes, motor & custom trans, sport suspension, trac loc, etc. I now have a very strong solid car and no paint. I'm stuck at the paint cuz of cost. The best price I can find is roughy $8K to paint a stripped coupe. I spent less doing the mechanical and sheet metal. I can spend a third of that cost doing it myself and that includes buying the 2-stage compressor which I'm seriously thinking about doing. I've seen many a nice paint job come out of a garage. Body and paint will be your biggest expense if you plan to pay someone else.
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