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67 that's been siting for a while.

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Old 04-13-2015, 10:37 PM
  #81  
67V8kupe
 
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Hump, I wouldn't trust that dash gauge since the sender is disconnected. False reading at the dash. The engine crossmember bolts on and can easily be removed to take down the oil pan. Barrett is right, drop the pan and check the oil pump screen and if not clogged, replace that oil pump.
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Old 04-14-2015, 07:44 PM
  #82  
barnett468
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Originally Posted by humpbackshooter
Ck that. If the distributor is not turning, then the motor would not have run. As far as pulling the distributor, I'll do that and check the gear on the end. My problem is how to pull the pan. Looks like I'll have to pull the engine. Cross-member and steering rods in the way. Might be able to jack it up some and pull. Will have to see. I'm thinking clogged screen or bad pump. Was not ready to pull engine cause if I do that, might as well go on and rebuild it too.
Thanks for the info.

Hump.
i thought you might have been turning it over by the starter.

since it runs, you do not need to check the distributor gear.

remove the 2 bolts on the idler arm and pull down hard on the steering linkage.

remove the cross bar as suggested.

the pan will easily come off.
.
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Old 04-14-2015, 08:43 PM
  #83  
humpbackshooter
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Originally Posted by barnett468
i thought you might have been turning it over by the starter.

since it runs, you do not need to check the distributor gear.

remove the 2 bolts on the idler arm and pull down hard on the steering linkage.

remove the cross bar as suggested.

the pan will easily come off.
.
I will try and do that tomorrow. Will let ya know what I find.

Hump.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:00 AM
  #84  
humpbackshooter
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Was abel to pull the cross member off and remove the front stabilizer bar. Didnt get the pan off, but there's still today.
Went going back on with the cross member, what do I tork the bolts to?

Hump
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Old 04-16-2015, 02:42 PM
  #85  
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.
65 ft lbs is fine
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:09 PM
  #86  
humpbackshooter
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O.k.....pulled the pan. Screen not stopped up. Removed the oil pump. Then I put the oil pump in the pan of oil I drained. Hooked up to a drill with the shaft. Pump worked. Would pump oil out. Don't make sence that it didn't pick up earlier. If the gear pin on the bottom of the dist. was broke, it wouldn't pump oil with the drill as the power source ?
Guess I'll put it back together and ck again.
Hump.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:52 PM
  #87  
humpbackshooter
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Put back together and it work. Guess it was air locked.

Hump
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:29 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by humpbackshooter
Put back together and it work. Guess it was air locked.

Hump
Wow Hump! Awesome find! I never would have guessed of an air lock in the oil pump.

I guess sitting for long it bled down all of the oil in the pump and couldn't prime on its own.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:15 AM
  #89  
racer_dave
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I guess its just me and my racing background, but if I was that far into it I'd replace the pump with new.

Also, as for filling a carb to prime it I always put some gas in a squeeze ketchup bottle (the old style ones with pointy tips like at Steak n Shake) and squirt some fuel down through the vent tubes into the bowls. This way it'll run until the pump primes and you're not spraying flammable liquid everywhere. Also a lot less chance of flashback.

I also will turn the car over with the starter (coil unhooked) until I get oil pressure before starting after any long term shut down.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:24 AM
  #90  
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Changed the trany fliud. Thats the easy part. Now stopping the pan from leaking. Read some of the post about flating out the lip where the bolts come through. I think a cork gasket is better than the flat rubber one that comes with it. How do ya get it back flat?

Hump.
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