engine size
11-20-2007, 11:15 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 10
RE: engine size
ORIGINAL: darcnytemare
id go with a C-4 with a 3spd. the 3550 tranny isnt made anymore. if u wanted manual ud have to go wit the TKO 500 or 600. id stick wit auto though if its gonna be a track car.
As far as heads...there are so many alum. heads out there for the 302 motor. if funds allow u can get a set of Brodix heads or AFR's. edelbrock and Dart heads r good. If you're building on a budget I'd go with a set of GT-40 alum. heads. good bang for your buck HP.
id go with a C-4 with a 3spd. the 3550 tranny isnt made anymore. if u wanted manual ud have to go wit the TKO 500 or 600. id stick wit auto though if its gonna be a track car.
As far as heads...there are so many alum. heads out there for the 302 motor. if funds allow u can get a set of Brodix heads or AFR's. edelbrock and Dart heads r good. If you're building on a budget I'd go with a set of GT-40 alum. heads. good bang for your buck HP.
11-20-2007, 11:26 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 10
RE: engine size
ORIGINAL: darcnytemare
id go with a C-4 with a 3spd. the 3550 tranny isnt made anymore. if u wanted manual ud have to go wit the TKO 500 or 600. id stick wit auto though if its gonna be a track car.
As far as heads...there are so many alum. heads out there for the 302 motor. if funds allow u can get a set of Brodix heads or AFR's. edelbrock and Dart heads r good. If you're building on a budget I'd go with a set of GT-40 alum. heads. good bang for your buck HP.
id go with a C-4 with a 3spd. the 3550 tranny isnt made anymore. if u wanted manual ud have to go wit the TKO 500 or 600. id stick wit auto though if its gonna be a track car.
As far as heads...there are so many alum. heads out there for the 302 motor. if funds allow u can get a set of Brodix heads or AFR's. edelbrock and Dart heads r good. If you're building on a budget I'd go with a set of GT-40 alum. heads. good bang for your buck HP.
11-21-2007, 05:12 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 10
RE: engine size
Hey guys, I went to Automotive Precision Machinery, INC they got me quote for 331 stroker and balance cost me 1150.00 And I need to know what best setup compriossor Ratio Cause I am look for engine for N/A as street/strip. Maybe someday I could stick with nitrous? Piston oval, dish or flat top? What about cam flat tapped or roller tapped?
Also last question about heads. I asked them which is best heads. They seem not know about that. But they say best use stock heads (cast ette) with larger stainless valve. I thought alum would make much power. Need find good pair price and worth to make big power. Hope hear from yall!!!
Also last question about heads. I asked them which is best heads. They seem not know about that. But they say best use stock heads (cast ette) with larger stainless valve. I thought alum would make much power. Need find good pair price and worth to make big power. Hope hear from yall!!!
11-24-2007, 08:50 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 4,089
RE: engine size
You mentioned using an 8.8" rear, but you already have a stronger rear end installed in the 9 inch. Plus, it has a removable carrier which makes it easier to change gear ratios. You could have one carrier with highway gears and one with strip gears. The swap takes less than an hour.
For an F100, stay away from the small block. Sure, it can make power, but it has torque issues, even when stroked to a 347. Torque is what you're going to feel. A 408 (bored and stroked 351) would be better, but a 460 (385 seriesbig block) or 390 (FE series, also includes the 428, 360, 352, and others) will make more torque at the same HP levels and provide better tracks times and more smiles. Unless you have an FE series engine around, go with the 385 series big block. Just a little awakening from stock will provide you with an easy 400hp and 500+ft-lb of torque....all without even coming close to stressing the engine.
For an F100, stay away from the small block. Sure, it can make power, but it has torque issues, even when stroked to a 347. Torque is what you're going to feel. A 408 (bored and stroked 351) would be better, but a 460 (385 seriesbig block) or 390 (FE series, also includes the 428, 360, 352, and others) will make more torque at the same HP levels and provide better tracks times and more smiles. Unless you have an FE series engine around, go with the 385 series big block. Just a little awakening from stock will provide you with an easy 400hp and 500+ft-lb of torque....all without even coming close to stressing the engine.
11-24-2007, 10:13 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 10
RE: engine size
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
You mentioned using an 8.8" rear, but you already have a stronger rear end installed in the 9 inch. Plus, it has a removable carrier which makes it easier to change gear ratios. You could have one carrier with highway gears and one with strip gears. The swap takes less than an hour.
For an F100, stay away from the small block. Sure, it can make power, but it has torque issues, even when stroked to a 347. Torque is what you're going to feel. A 408 (bored and stroked 351) would be better, but a 460 (385 seriesbig block) or 390 (FE series, also includes the 428, 360, 352, and others) will make more torque at the same HP levels and provide better tracks times and more smiles. Unless you have an FE series engine around, go with the 385 series big block. Just a little awakening from stock will provide you with an easy 400hp and 500+ft-lb of torque....all without even coming close to stressing the engine.
You mentioned using an 8.8" rear, but you already have a stronger rear end installed in the 9 inch. Plus, it has a removable carrier which makes it easier to change gear ratios. You could have one carrier with highway gears and one with strip gears. The swap takes less than an hour.
For an F100, stay away from the small block. Sure, it can make power, but it has torque issues, even when stroked to a 347. Torque is what you're going to feel. A 408 (bored and stroked 351) would be better, but a 460 (385 seriesbig block) or 390 (FE series, also includes the 428, 360, 352, and others) will make more torque at the same HP levels and provide better tracks times and more smiles. Unless you have an FE series engine around, go with the 385 series big block. Just a little awakening from stock will provide you with an easy 400hp and 500+ft-lb of torque....all without even coming close to stressing the engine.
I didnt know that rearend 9inch is stronger. what gear better on highway which stick with c-4 or aod? You mean I need to get 351 engine bored to 408? I am not sure if the 1969 I thought it was 71 but its 1969 and the engine is all ORGINAL I think its 302? Also its has tranny on it. Its 3 speed I think. Its from junkyard I plan to buy it that truck bec good body. Only cost 500 But I need to make right decision about engine and other info. All I need know quick. Thank you for help out! You say I need big block. I really so confused between small and big block.
11-25-2007, 09:35 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Decatur AL USA
Posts: 2,176
RE: engine size
For a vehicle of trucks weight I would not build a302 based engine.
I would start with a 351 Windsor. The 351W can be bored to clean up the cylinders.
I would then build either a 392W or 408W. Using a complete aftermarket stroker kit.
Shoot for around 9.5:1 Compression. Piston Dish will need to be matched to head chamber size.
Make sure you get the block decked to accomplish the pistons flush with the block (Zero Decking).
Use 0.040 or 0.041 quality headgaskets. For a truck I would consider using AFR185 heads if they are in the budget.
I would spend the extra $50 to have the block machined for a hydraulic roller cam.
I would get a cam ground along the lines of 226/232 0.050 on a 108 LSA installed on a 104 ICL.
This will have a nice lope,enough vaccum to run power brakes, anda really strong mid-range.
Add a Performer RPM or Stealth Intake and a 750 Vacuum Secondary Holley.
1.75" Headers with 3" Exhaust with a cross over and Dynomax Race Mufflers (You can use something quieter if its to loud for you)
I would run a C6 Auto with a Mild Shift Kit, a good trans cooler, and a tight 10" Converter with about 2800 rpm stall.
Use the factory 9" Ford thats already in the truck. Equip with a limited slip of some kind. A Detroit TruTrac would be nice. 3.50 Gears.
275/60R15 rear tires for the street. Drag Radials in the same size for the track.
I would start with a 351 Windsor. The 351W can be bored to clean up the cylinders.
I would then build either a 392W or 408W. Using a complete aftermarket stroker kit.
Shoot for around 9.5:1 Compression. Piston Dish will need to be matched to head chamber size.
Make sure you get the block decked to accomplish the pistons flush with the block (Zero Decking).
Use 0.040 or 0.041 quality headgaskets. For a truck I would consider using AFR185 heads if they are in the budget.
I would spend the extra $50 to have the block machined for a hydraulic roller cam.
I would get a cam ground along the lines of 226/232 0.050 on a 108 LSA installed on a 104 ICL.
This will have a nice lope,enough vaccum to run power brakes, anda really strong mid-range.
Add a Performer RPM or Stealth Intake and a 750 Vacuum Secondary Holley.
1.75" Headers with 3" Exhaust with a cross over and Dynomax Race Mufflers (You can use something quieter if its to loud for you)
I would run a C6 Auto with a Mild Shift Kit, a good trans cooler, and a tight 10" Converter with about 2800 rpm stall.
Use the factory 9" Ford thats already in the truck. Equip with a limited slip of some kind. A Detroit TruTrac would be nice. 3.50 Gears.
275/60R15 rear tires for the street. Drag Radials in the same size for the track.
11-25-2007, 09:51 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Decatur AL USA
Posts: 2,176
RE: engine size
Or a low cost alternative! Get a 1988-1992 460 in good condition (pistons only have 7cc dish).
Swap EFI heads for a set of used D3's with 95 cc chambers (Available Cheap!)
Buy the thinnest headgasket you can find.
Install 268/276 227/233 (0.050) Lunati "VooDoo" Cam
Stealth Intake
750 Holley
1.875 Headers
The rest the same as the other.
Swap EFI heads for a set of used D3's with 95 cc chambers (Available Cheap!)
Buy the thinnest headgasket you can find.
Install 268/276 227/233 (0.050) Lunati "VooDoo" Cam
Stealth Intake
750 Holley
1.875 Headers
The rest the same as the other.
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