Best Cams for Performance (4.6)
#11
I've been looking into cams as well mostly because I do a lot of track days. Superchargers are fun, but they heat soak pretty badly in che Caribbean sun, so I need something that will put more power lap after lap, so n/a seems to be the best route plus it's easier on the wallet because you don't have to fork over 6k all at once, you can buy parts as you go.
So, my question, for track days, which are a good set of cams that do not require head modification? I'm ok with springs and cam phaser locks, I just don't want CNC ported heads. Also, this is my daily driver so I still need them to be usable on the street. Mine's a manual trans with 3:73 gears.
So, my question, for track days, which are a good set of cams that do not require head modification? I'm ok with springs and cam phaser locks, I just don't want CNC ported heads. Also, this is my daily driver so I still need them to be usable on the street. Mine's a manual trans with 3:73 gears.
#12
Are you in a HP-limited class for track days or is it anything goes? Just curious.
Anyway...most "stage 1" type of cams (no springs/phaser mods needed) are supposed to be OK with 3.73 gears from what I've seen, but beyond that they tend to trade some bottom end power for top end power and are better with 4.10 gears (which I think you would especially want for track use to stay in the power band).
Do you have other supporting mods like headers or CMDP's? I personally waited until I had those done to do cams, because I don't feel like you get the most out of the cams without them. Many of even the smaller cams are worth 30 hp up top with headers and CMDP's. Comp's Stage 2 NSR gives something like 40-45 hp up top but gives up around 15-20 hp below 3000 RPM compared to stock cams.
I've also noticed just based on dyno results that a lot of the springs required cams don't really give you all that much more power for the extra $300+ you have to spend on springs, and the time it takes to swap them all out.
I bought the Cushman Stage 1's and I have 355 gears so I guess we'll see how they feel with those gears when I get the car done.
Anyway...most "stage 1" type of cams (no springs/phaser mods needed) are supposed to be OK with 3.73 gears from what I've seen, but beyond that they tend to trade some bottom end power for top end power and are better with 4.10 gears (which I think you would especially want for track use to stay in the power band).
Do you have other supporting mods like headers or CMDP's? I personally waited until I had those done to do cams, because I don't feel like you get the most out of the cams without them. Many of even the smaller cams are worth 30 hp up top with headers and CMDP's. Comp's Stage 2 NSR gives something like 40-45 hp up top but gives up around 15-20 hp below 3000 RPM compared to stock cams.
I've also noticed just based on dyno results that a lot of the springs required cams don't really give you all that much more power for the extra $300+ you have to spend on springs, and the time it takes to swap them all out.
I bought the Cushman Stage 1's and I have 355 gears so I guess we'll see how they feel with those gears when I get the car done.
#13
So, my question, for track days, which are a good set of cams that do not require head modification? I'm ok with springs and cam phaser locks, I just don't want CNC ported heads. Also, this is my daily driver so I still need them to be usable on the street. Mine's a manual trans with 3:73 gears.
#16
Well thanks for the Info ghunt, i should have been alittle more specific about which parts Im worried about wearing... specifically, im talking about the piston rings and rod bearings. Its my understanding that Cams will increase the amount of air and fuel in the combustion chamber which equals more BANG for the Piston Rings and more POW for the Rod Bearings not to mention WOMP against the Crankshaft.
But Im glad you have experience Daily Driving your cammed GT, my GT is already at 150k mileage so I just want to maybe have some piece of mind before pulling the trigger on some cams.
But Im glad you have experience Daily Driving your cammed GT, my GT is already at 150k mileage so I just want to maybe have some piece of mind before pulling the trigger on some cams.
#17
Well...cams don't really increase the amount of air and fuel, they just have more overlap for more effective upper-RPM cylinder scavenging. They're just making the current process more efficient at higher RPM's, usually at the expense of idle and lower RPM's. Now, because of the additional overlap it does send more unburned hydrocarbons out of the exhaust at idle, and I see you're in California- I don't know if cams would pass emissions out there due to that.
#18
Thanks for the clarification ghunt, Thats good info.
What range of lower RPM's are negatively affected? is it idle to 2500 or is it higher?
Im asking since on the freeway, Im usually coasting at 2500-3000 rpms and it would suck if I lose mileage at cruising speeds.
As far as Ca Emissions, i'd plan on removing and reinstalling stock parts just for smog tests.
What range of lower RPM's are negatively affected? is it idle to 2500 or is it higher?
Im asking since on the freeway, Im usually coasting at 2500-3000 rpms and it would suck if I lose mileage at cruising speeds.
As far as Ca Emissions, i'd plan on removing and reinstalling stock parts just for smog tests.
#19
So you're gonna swap out cams for a smog test? Well, if you want...
Anyway, in my car I honestly don't feel a big difference in the bottom end over the difference I felt after I installed the CMDP's (which made it feel a little soft below 2000 RPM or so). But, not all cams are the same. Most cams don't really negatively affect highway mileage, or if they do it's pretty slight.
Anyway, in my car I honestly don't feel a big difference in the bottom end over the difference I felt after I installed the CMDP's (which made it feel a little soft below 2000 RPM or so). But, not all cams are the same. Most cams don't really negatively affect highway mileage, or if they do it's pretty slight.
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