went to the track today, bad runs!!
#11
Good advice from everyone. Biggest thing is to focus and take your time. Don't worry about the guy in the other lane, or RT, or any of that BS. As for the water box, drive around it to keep your front tires dry to prevent tracking water to the line for your rear tires to spin on. Instead, go around it and back up to it, not in it, but just to the edge of it where the track is damp enough to help you get your tires spinning without dumping the clutch at high rpm. Just bring your RPM up to 4k or so, drop the clutch and get your clutch foot on the brake. As for you hitting your rev limit, just don't hold the throttle to the mat while burning out, let up and let it rev at 5k or so. Once you see white smoke, SLOWLY get off the brake and let it roll forward until you start to feel it grab. I noticed your traps are kind of low. Are you sure you're staying in it the whole time and not letting off too soon? Just keep practicing, man. You'll be surprised how natural it becomes. After awhile, its like turning a door ****, you don't even have to think about it, you just do it. Good luck and congrats on getting out there!
#13
Thats what times are like down here, nothing wrong with you or your car, you might be able to squeeze another mph or 2 with these same mods but not much more. My best n/a time was 13.5 @ 105mph with a 2.0x 60ft time on street tires, 4.10s, C&L intake, prochamber midpipe, SSS catback, PHP 3/8 spacer and VMP custom tune, almost identical to your mods.
#15
Other than driving around the water, this is what burnout method Stone was describing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7FGqMVBRKw
Dump it, hold the brake for a couple seconds, let it ride out till the tires are chirping. Riding it out does two things...burns up any dampness from the front tires, and keeps the tires from using up the sticky outside layer on the way to the starting line. If I made a video of my last 50 burnouts they'd all look nearly identical, it's really worked for me. Oh, and no matter the burnout, 27 psi is too high. Start at 25 and work down if you're spinning.
EDIT: also, burnout in 2nd. Didn't know if you were using 1st or 2nd.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7FGqMVBRKw
Dump it, hold the brake for a couple seconds, let it ride out till the tires are chirping. Riding it out does two things...burns up any dampness from the front tires, and keeps the tires from using up the sticky outside layer on the way to the starting line. If I made a video of my last 50 burnouts they'd all look nearly identical, it's really worked for me. Oh, and no matter the burnout, 27 psi is too high. Start at 25 and work down if you're spinning.
EDIT: also, burnout in 2nd. Didn't know if you were using 1st or 2nd.
#16
1. invest in suspension?
2. are you running the correct psi and warming those nittos up right? you should be a little better than even a 1.9 with a DR. Burn them bitches till you see white smoke, drive around the waterbox imo.
also maybe its just my opinion, but stock shifter for the track is win, easier and feels better to bang gears, short shifter for the twisties.
2. are you running the correct psi and warming those nittos up right? you should be a little better than even a 1.9 with a DR. Burn them bitches till you see white smoke, drive around the waterbox imo.
also maybe its just my opinion, but stock shifter for the track is win, easier and feels better to bang gears, short shifter for the twisties.
You lost me on that one...defies the point of a short throw LOL Shorter throw = quicker shifting ability anywhere (track, twisties or street)
You're a damn good driver if you can rip on a stock shifter over a MGW or the like. Centering springs in the stock shifter are almost non-existent.
#17
You lost me on that one...defies the point of a short throw LOL Shorter throw = quicker shifting ability anywhere (track, twisties or street)
You're a damn good driver if you can rip on a stock shifter over a MGW or the like. Centering springs in the stock shifter are almost non-existent.
You're a damn good driver if you can rip on a stock shifter over a MGW or the like. Centering springs in the stock shifter are almost non-existent.
#18
MGW is the shizzz. I dropped my ET a decent amount with just an STS. Shift time adds up more than people think. Not to mention, every time the front of the car drops between shifts, it takes power and loses momentum to bring it back up when reengaging the clutch. Rygi's vid is a prime example of how near perfect shifts keep the front end up as much as possible.
#19
MGW is the shizzz. I dropped my ET a decent amount with just an STS. Shift time adds up more than people think. Not to mention, every time the front of the car drops between shifts, it takes power and loses momentum to bring it back up when reengaging the clutch. Rygi's vid is a prime example of how near perfect shifts keep the front end up as much as possible.
Rygi, you on stock trans? No replaces syncro's or anything?
#20
ok, then I dont feel so bad with a 13.3 with a 1.9 60ft. I was just getting a feel for the car on that last run and I know I could do better. I was just hoping to break into the 12's. Next time I think I can get closer.