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And a side question: Are there ANY alternatives to running a stock RUCA that don't cause more bind? Excluding using a torque arm or custom 3-link setup of course. I keep hearing stories of road racers blowing out the stock rubber bushings, even if they run a PHB.
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Just do all of the front suspension stuff at once, and all of the rear suspension stuff at once. That will minimize the amount of work.
You can setup the rear suspension for a PM3L (Poor Mans 3-link). You basically remove one of the UCAs and install a spherical bearing at the axle end of the remaining UCA with a poly bushing at the other end. Only do this if your upper UCA mounts on the car are in perfect condition.
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I read through seven or so pages checking for the answer but are spherical bearing upper control arms and a pan hard bar a solid combination? I've already got the MM panhard, but I'd still like to avoid any rear end instability without dropping the money on a torque arm. The car is daily driven, so the goals are front coilover kit and modest lowering all around, and being able to have a little more fun on a Napa back road without fearing potholes the other 6 days of the week. Thanks in advance Jazzer
But the article is missing something, that is a wheel spacer.
Using a 2 inch spacer on the front and rear of my fox,with intentions to give me a better arcing fulcrum in corners.
I'll bet you saw huge improvements widening your track width 4 inches but not the safest way to go, especially with a car that is driven hard. Even the best spacers introduce a new failure point in your suspension
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